Lens to lens/sensor capture

[Gregor Murbach]

Hello everyone,

I would very much like to digitize 8mm/Super 8 amateur films. My current equipment includes a Panasonic Lumix GX7 digital camera (with various manual functions) with a normal kit lens, an Elmo K100 dual projector with variable speed, an Elmo SP-F dual projector and a Bauer T600 Super-8 projector.

I would have a few questions and was hoping someone could perhaps help...
- why would one need a 16mm projector lens on a 8mm projector to do a lens-to-lens transfer?
- has anyone tried scanning films by using a macro lens on the camera and removing the projector lens?
- despite the variable speed dial on the projector and changing parameters on the digital camera, I have been unable to remove the "black bar" (from the rotating shutter). By removing the shutter, do you think I could solve the issue or will it create a new one (seeing half-frames for instance)?
- has anyone successfully tried to capture footage projected onto the sensor of a digital camera?

Many thanks in advance for any help you could provide.

[Janice Glesser]

Why would one need a 16mm projector lens on a 8mm projector to do a lens-to-lens transfer?
Has anyone tried scanning films by using a macro lens on the camera and removing the projector lens?

Either using a 16mm lens or a macro lens and removing the projector lens will work. I have used both. In my own experience I find using the 16mm lens has given me a sharper image, but more grain to remove in post. On the other hand removing the projector lens and adding a Raynox 250 macro lens to my camcorder the picture isn't as sharp...but much less grain. I think this is something you would have to experiment in your setup to choose what works best for you.

Check this thread from the archived forum to get some more information:
http://http://8mmforum.film-tech.com...=012848#000001

Here is a good example video (not mine) of a guy using both techniques on his system.

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Despite the variable speed dial on the projector and changing parameters on the digital camera, I have been unable to remove the "black bar" (from the rotating shutter). By removing the shutter, do you think I could solve the issue or will it create a new one (seeing half-frames for instance)?

If in the U.S. The camcorder should be set to 60fps (sometimes 30fps works better to remove flicker or banding). The projector with a 3 blade shutter needs to run at 20fps. These are the "golden rule" settings some adjustment of the projector speed needs to be done visually...projector speeds are not always consistent.

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Has anyone successfully tried to capture footage projected onto the sensor of a digital camera?

If you can think it somebody has done it Gregor . Most of the digital camera setups I've seen have been frame-by-frame capturing synced with the camera. I've never used a digital camera...but I have read that this can limit the life of the sensor. Don't know if this is true of the late model cameras.

[Gregor Murbach]

This is food for thought, many thanks Janice. Much appreciated!