How to fix film that is too wide for Wolverine?

[Arne Ansper]

I have some films that are not perfectly splitted to 8mm+8mm but rather 7.9mm+8.1mm. I try to digitize them using Wolverine, but the problem is that the film path on the Wolverine is made for perfect 8mm film and 8.1mm film will get stuck there.

I suppose I'm not the first one who had this problem. What to do? Can I somehow trim the 0.1mm off from the edge of the film? Or can I somehow widden the film path?

[Brian Fretwell]

In England a company called Carnell made an "Equaliser" that shaved off any excess over the normal width. Phil did have some at Classic Home Cinema (Cleethorpes). You could try contacting him to see if he still has any. http://homeclassiccinema.moonfruit.com/

[Arne Ansper]

Thanks. I sent them an email. Just found out that Wolverine addresses this question in their FAQ: https://www.wolverinedata.com/faqs

This solution is kind of working, but not too reliably.

I was thinking about enlarging the channel just a little bit using some cutting instrument. It seems that very little extra room is needed to make the film move freely.

[Stan Jelavic]

You can try using a file to widen the channel but that could make the unit unusable for the narrower film.

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

This is why the inner lateral guide in most projector's film gate is almost always spring-loaded. Not only to eliminate any lateral movement, but this will also accommodate any variation in the film width also.

In other words, another forgotten design principle for making proper film transport...

[Arne Ansper]

In England a company called Carnell made an "Equaliser" that shaved off any excess over the normal width. Phil did have some at Classic Home Cinema (Cleethorpes). You could try contacting him to see if he still has any. http://homeclassiccinema.moonfruit.com/

Thank you for the tip. I was able to order one and will let you know when it arrives and how it works.

[Brian Fretwell]

One worked for me on a badly slit "white box special" from Derann that wouldn't even go through a projector.

I hope it works for you.

[Stuart Budd]

This would be the two tab gate? I had a two tab gate unbranded 5" version. Film would get stuck in the gate and around the exit guides emulsion side. I returned that within a week. The "fix" at Wolverine was a piece of paper folded to spread the gate! I assume the 3 tab gate is wider. I have that type now in a Wolverine 5" 720 model. You can see on some a diagram of the gate and tabs printed on the fascia.
Prior to this I did get a new. Yes new, 9" from a Amazon. Printed with a 3 tab gate. It arrived with a two tab gate. It went back the same day with the reasons given. How it came to me like that is open to possibilities. One is that someone had swapped it and returned the unit. I may have done the swap! Thats ok and no one would ever know about it unless someone else got it as New!
Back when my film was sticking and I had a two tab gate I was new to digitizing. Now I have a 3 tab gate but a little more experience. I clean and I'm aware af the films physical quality. Splices and burns etc... Standard and Super. None has stuck since cleaning and using the 3 tab gate with two motors. One for the claw and the other for the takeup. I contacted B&H to confirm some things. New means 0 file count, so any with file counts more than 0 have been used. The second is that regardless of images shown on their web site and possibly others, the Wolverine is as now, 3 tab. Check the manual that's downloadable to confirm.
I'm not saying the Wolverine is the best. Just that if in the market for a digitizer the Wolverine I know ticks most boxes.
1. Three tab gate possibly wider.
2. Two motors and not belt drive takeup spool from main claw motor.
3. Nylon washer to protect clutch plastic from metal spring on takeup spool shaft.

[Arne Ansper]

Yes, it's two tab gate machine from Reflecta.

[Stuart Budd]

What helped me was cleaning the film first. It's my own film and I don't pretend to be professional digitizer. So dry cleaning with a lens cloth is fine for my needs. I use an 8mm editor Prinz 600 or the like. Not to view, just to hold the reels while I manually wind the film through the lens cloth and back again.
Enviromental humidity will add to friction on the emulsion side. Cleaning helps reduce friction. Next is the takeup spool spring. It may be too strong. When viewing the frame if frame appears to move, try allowing the film to drop straight into a clean box and ignor takeup spool. If frame is steady, the takeup clutch (spring) too strong.
As for tight gate. This will be 8mm only more than likely and not a Super8 issue.
To widen the gate is a hands on job but as a note, the 3 tab gate has 2 tabs on one side and 1 tab on the other. This may be to stop the film from doing something it shouldn't. So if just widening is the solution why did the 3 tab gate evolve!
I got rid of mine as wasn't happy. You could sell it on and get a new Wolverine. B&H in the state have good prices and sort all taxes should needs be.
Second hand is almost as expensive as new and B&H cheaper than most on ebay and Amazon.
Alternatively, try polishing the gate prior to use.
Pain I know

[Arne Ansper]

The Equalizer arrived. When I opened the plastic bag the smell of something old came out.


Seems that I own a part of history now

It needs servicing: wheels do not rotate and I will sharpen the blade.


Manual for three different tools was included:

[Stan Jelavic]

Wow, that is old. Hope you get it working again.

[David Brown]

Arnie, thank you for posting this. I've never heard of this device.

I would love to be able to read the instructions you have as I cannot find any information online. Just a little too blurry.

I did find this below, but it does not explain what all it does. Seems to do more than cut the excess width from a bad split of 16mm to 8mm.

https://picclick.ie/Vintage-CUT-A-RU...578779784.html

Does that mean half of your 8mm movie is too narrow, did it cut into the image?

[Arne Ansper]

I uploaded a full size image here https://home.cyber.ee/arne/equalizer_manual_big.jpg

Cut-a-rut appears to be a different tool but shares the body and design with Equalizer.

[David Brown]

Thanks Arne!