posted February 03, 2013 10:05 AM
Hallo Dino last year j bought it in a common elettronic device store.Search in your city and probably you can find it.The voltage can be 600 volt or high.My capacitor is a 2000 Volt and work fine ....the most important value is the capacity : 3300 pF.
Posts: 2211
From: New York City, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003
posted February 03, 2013 01:48 PM
Kev told me that they dry out over time. So its possible that yours can still be good but if you intend to do some recording I would change it. When I did it before replacing it the recordings were muffled with no high end. When I replaced it the highs were crystal clear and it sounded like it did when I first got it. I initially thought that the problem was the heads going.
Posts: 4554
From: New York, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003
posted February 03, 2013 04:53 PM
If someone can post a step by step how-to with pictures it would be greatly appreciated. Kev's posts were great, however there are a few details left out....such as getting to the capacitor in the first place.
Doug
-------------------- I think there's room for just one more film.....
Posts: 1535
From: Long Beach, CA USA
Registered: Dec 2008
posted February 04, 2013 12:10 AM
Let me say many thanks to Alan Rik ! ! ! !
I agree with Doug. Graham's post is helpful as is kevin's original one, but I would love to see a picture or two where someone puts a couple of arrows to the capacitor points on the board to make sure there can be no mistakes, as I would hate to screw up...Mainly because the wires coming off the edges of the new capacitor in Kev's post don't look like they would reach the same spots as the old capacitor, so it would be great to see a close up of how it looks once completed....
-------------------- "You're too Far Out Miss Lawrence"
Posts: 1535
From: Long Beach, CA USA
Registered: Dec 2008
posted March 05, 2013 01:48 AM
first let me say that i think every purchase of a used GS really should come with a one year subscription to phone support to a personal GS expert because seriously every time you turn these things on there can be a new problem...I was deciding to change out that capacitor thanks to the help of Alan Rik who provided me with new ones, when I watched a movie and noticed a new audio hum -- as I turn up the audio there is a crazy squeal like feedback....
OK so back to the first issue...I changed the capacitor but I may have to do it again...Calling electronics guys Look at my final picture. Does the capacitor have to sit closer to the board?
Here are the issues I noticed when changing this 1 - Getting the old capacitor off was not too difficult, but getting the new one on was very tricky finding the little holes to stick the connecting wires through....My guess is that this would be extremely easy if the board was not still connected, but with it connected it becomes a game of skill trying to accomplish....The other thing that concerned me was how do you avoid scorching the board when trying to disconnect the old capacitor? As I was heating it up to pull off it got quite hot before it would budge and i was worried I might damage the board (perhaps I have?)
So the new issues i am dealing with are 1 - Should I try and re position the capacitor closer to the board and if so why? what difference will it make?
2 - What would cause the feedback squeal when simply turning the volume up while watching a movie?
I feel like I am still frustrated with the GS but now almost more than ever i feel determined to learn as much as I can about the machine from the experts because it seems like the only affordable way to own one of these is to work on them yourself, because I sunk close to a grand into repairing the previous one, which doesn't work any better than before I spent the money..
-------------------- "You're too Far Out Miss Lawrence"
Posts: 140
From: Denham Springs, La.
Registered: Oct 2011
posted March 05, 2013 04:02 PM
Dino To solder/desolder: Do NOT use a soldering gun. A small soldering iron(45 watt max.) works very well. To remove old parts, be sure the tip is clean and hot. Apply heat for not more than 3 seconds. I use a "solder sucker" to remove the solder. It also helps clean out the holes. A "hat pin" will also help. Use 63/37 rosin-core solder on all electrical circuits. It goes from a liquid to solid faster. It's usually best to mount the electrical parts close to the board. Long leads may pick up stray magnetic fields. It just looks better.
Posts: 1535
From: Long Beach, CA USA
Registered: Dec 2008
posted March 06, 2013 01:41 AM
Bruce, OK yes I have a 30w soldering iron (not gun) with a nice sharp tip, so I will re-do the capacitor closer to the board, and could you please post a link to a recommended "solder sucker" as I will get one.....Thanks for the help
-------------------- "You're too Far Out Miss Lawrence"
Posts: 140
From: Denham Springs, La.
Registered: Oct 2011
posted March 06, 2013 01:52 PM
Dino: I got my "solder sucker" from Radio Shack several years back. Was in Rat Shack last week and they had some on display. Good luck with your project.
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
posted June 02, 2017 09:58 AM
Solder wick or braid is every bit as useful, if not more useful than a desoldering pump at quickly and effectively removing solder from a join.
-------------------- "C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
posted November 28, 2017 12:51 PM
I want to replace the recording capacitor on my GS1200 but don't know where to get one, and I cannot see from any of these posts exactly where to solder the ends. Can anyone help?
-------------------- The best of all worlds- 8mm, super 8mm, 9.5mm, and HD Digital Projection, Elmo GS1200 f1.0 2-blade Eumig S938 Stereo f1.0 Ektar Panasonic PT-AE4000U digital pj