Posts: 5468
From: Nouméa, New Caledonia
Registered: Jun 2003
posted June 28, 2012 05:42 AM
I have had scope films since long time ago but not able to screen properly. Previously I projected using a Sankor 16 anamorphic lens but the image was vignetting so I stopped using it.
Recently with the help of a good friend in NY, I got another scope lens (ISCO) that is designated for 8mm.
So I grab my scope film (a WD "Down with the bear") and the result is amazing. Here is :
I see there is still a problem with my setting because the scope lens cannot stand straight in front of the projector. This is due to my GS1200 is a bit lift up. I tried to make it flat but still it is not really flat, while the stand lens was standing on the table which is 180 degree flat.
You can see that on pictures below:
ps: I am not talking about the gap between the prime lens and the scope lens but flatness between them.
I think I made a wrong set up with the brackets/stand. It comes in several parts which I re-installed using my logic. I will open a different thread to ask your assistance how to instal this bracket/stand.
pss: When it is Derann's later print, you never get wrong with its sharpness
Posts: 591
From: Neath, South Wales, UK
Registered: Jun 2003
posted June 28, 2012 12:13 PM
Austin, Scope is a generic term, derived from the word cinemascope. A normal Super8mm print will have a screen ratio of 4 x 3,or 1.33:1. For example a picture 3feet high will be 4feet wide (approx). A scope lens doubles the width of the picture so you get a 8 X 3 or 2.66:1 ratio. You use this lens with films released in the 'scope format. If you hold a scope print up to the light and look at a frame,or project a scope film without the additional lens, people and objects in that frame will look too tall and thin. The scope lens expands the picture width ways only.
-------------------- I'm gonna live forever or die trying
Posts: 5468
From: Nouméa, New Caledonia
Registered: Jun 2003
posted June 28, 2012 12:29 PM
Austin,
A price of scope film normally 30% - 50% higher than the flat one. For example a flat usual title of Tom & Jerry which is around $15 then the scope counterpart can reach $22-25.
The above film was purchased for $25.
A scope lens is rather expensive. Mine is $75 include a bracket & a stand. But for a well-known brand such as Sankor can be $150-250.
posted June 28, 2012 12:36 PM
Nice screenshots and that is a very good print to use to display the possibilities of super 8. It is exceptionally sharp, (take that red "checkerboard" wallpaper in the background, for instance), and really shows off just how good a good print on super 8, can be. I have this film as well.
-------------------- "All these moments will be lost in time, just like ... tears, in the rain. "
Posts: 372
From: Montrose, NY
Registered: Feb 2011
posted June 28, 2012 01:22 PM
For super 8 scope prints you will need no less than a 150 Watt Lamp and a 1.0 or 1.1 lens. With 16mm, it would be less critical Without the above the picture quality is poor.
Posts: 5468
From: Nouméa, New Caledonia
Registered: Jun 2003
posted June 28, 2012 01:51 PM
quote:I'd love to get one scope looks nice(: Could you play a scope print without a.scope lenses and vise versa ?
For some reason you are still OK to screen scope print without a scope lens because the image will look taller.
But vice versa?, I don't think so. Because a flat print screened with a scope lens will make all persons look shorter, and we don't like to see Arnold like a hobbit, do we?
Posts: 226
From: Milton Keynes Buckinghamshire
Registered: Aug 2005
posted June 28, 2012 03:37 PM
Scope is acheivable if you have a decent light output like a Elmo. But needs a decent quality print and then the reduction to Super 8 does have major cropping on the horizontal frame. So the best quality is the light output and you loose dome horizontal image in the reduction from 35mm.
posted June 29, 2012 01:59 AM
Winbert, you're almost there! You've got yourself a great scope lens, but there's always a slight risk of misalignment with stand-alone brackets. If you purchase a bracket that can be attached to the frame of the projector (I personnaly use this one - from Wittner, top of page, several adaptor rings available), you will get better results.