Posts: 529
From: Charleston, SC, USA
Registered: Aug 2005
posted April 14, 2012 11:40 AM
Has anyone here ever replaced the motor belt on a Elmo HiVision SC-18? I bought a like new unit but the belt isn't there. The inside is so compact, I wouldn't even know where to start disassembly. I can send it out for a repair, but it will cost me more than what I paid for it.
-------------------- Movie Lovers Do It in the Dark
Posts: 638
From: New York, NY, USA
Registered: Apr 2007
posted April 14, 2012 03:18 PM
Hello Joe,
The Elmo SC-18 needs two belts, one to rotate the spindles and the other for the shutter (motor belt).
The pictures below should help you install both belts on you SC-18 projector. You need to remove the back (be careful with the sound cord connection). You also need to remove the flywheel to install the motor belt (picture number one shows the flywheel before being removed)
That's it!
Don't forget to install the flywheel and re-connect the sound cord.
Posts: 529
From: Charleston, SC, USA
Registered: Aug 2005
posted April 14, 2012 09:15 PM
Very helpful but the motor shaft extends far across (where it was behind the flywheel). How do I get the belt over the shaft? Does the white nylon slide back and forth on the shaft to make the tiny space shown in the last picture? Does the speed need to be adjusted after belt installation?
-------------------- Movie Lovers Do It in the Dark
Posts: 638
From: New York, NY, USA
Registered: Apr 2007
posted April 14, 2012 09:46 PM
Yes, the white nylon shaft slides back, you can see it closed in picture number 3 and opened in the last picture.
The speed may may or may not run slightly faster when the belts are installed but very little to make any difference, the speed will settle after running a couple of 400 footers - If you find the need to adjust the speeds, the pots are located on the small board top left.
Posts: 529
From: Charleston, SC, USA
Registered: Aug 2005
posted April 14, 2012 10:34 PM
Thanks for the information; replacement belts have been ordered. I will install them later this coming week. This help is saving me around $200!
-------------------- Movie Lovers Do It in the Dark
Posts: 529
From: Charleston, SC, USA
Registered: Aug 2005
posted April 20, 2012 08:49 PM
Jon, Frustration is a better word for experience. The very narrow space next to the shutter pulley was a bit smaller than the belt thickness. I used a wooden craft stick shaped like a tongue depressor to push the belt through the space. I didn't dare use anything metal to push the belt with. I was going to change the rewind belt too, but I quit while I was ahead since that belt is intact.
-------------------- Movie Lovers Do It in the Dark
Posts: 3063
From: Gt. Clifton,Cumbria,England
Registered: Jan 2012
posted April 21, 2012 09:33 AM
Hello Joe,have you considered the belting that can be heat joined this might save some "aggro" and bad language in the future. Just a thought.
Posts: 529
From: Charleston, SC, USA
Registered: Aug 2005
posted April 21, 2012 01:32 PM
Hugh,I'm aware of the belting but have never tried it. I don't trust that the weld would hold. Since the motor belt was nowhere in sight, I wouldn't have known the size to fabricate.
-------------------- Movie Lovers Do It in the Dark
Posts: 89
From: Corpus Christi, TX
Registered: Mar 2011
posted April 14, 2014 07:42 PM
i just got some new belts after having my motor belt snap. bought the set of two off ebay - heres my problem... which of the two is the motor belt? the larger or the smaller of the two? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012
posted February 19, 2015 07:36 AM
I just got my new belts for this projector today. I have installed the top belt, removed the flywheel, but there's no way to get a belt even if I move the white plastic thingy all the way left. Do I need to remove the screws there?
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
posted February 19, 2015 07:43 AM
With the white plastic coupling removed this appears a very simple belt change Vidar.
Whereabouts are you struggling at the drive end or the shutter end?
try to remove the white plastic coupling altogether, or at least manoeuvre it right out of your way as the image above shows while you are fitting belt if it is the drive end you are struggling with.
-------------------- "C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012
posted February 19, 2015 08:33 AM
I can't get the white plastic thingy moved long enough left to open up the space. Do I need to remove the spring on the white plastic?
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
posted February 19, 2015 09:51 AM
I cannot see for sure from the photograph Vidar, what that spring is holding in place but it must be helping the plastic coupling or thingy as you call it, from allowing the white plastic coupling to slide up and down the shaft. I would say from just from what I can make out from the photo, that the spring is a retaining spring and beneath it are perhaps two split halves of plastic or metal that locate the whole thing in position on the shaft.
Try to remove the spring Vidar and see what's beneath.
-------------------- "C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
posted February 19, 2015 10:27 AM
Vidar, the white plastic shaft coupler should move a few millimeters, just enough to slide the new belt in. The spring assay is what's keeping the shaft connected to the motor. Here's another set of pics I took for a tutorial posted on this forum a while ago : go to this page.
Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012
posted February 19, 2015 11:04 AM
Was a locking piece to the left of the spring that I can't see in your pictures. The spring wasn't really removable. All done and it runs fine now :-) Thanks