Posts: 40
From: Kansas City, MO, USA
Registered: Sep 2013
posted March 15, 2014 03:40 PM
I'm getting a blurred, flickery image with the Standard-8 guide... as if the aperture plate were not installed - but it is.
The guide is installed correctly, the correct gears are in place... I can't understand what's make the image so flickery and fluid.
Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007
posted March 15, 2014 03:54 PM
Gary If the projector is an 810 then it is only for Super 8. The letter "D" after the number will indicate that it is for use with both Super 8 and Standard (Regular) 8. If you are not sure, the "D" model will have a sliding switch near the sound head to select the sound track from either side.
Posts: 40
From: Kansas City, MO, USA
Registered: Sep 2013
posted March 15, 2014 04:42 PM
Seems to be, I've cleaned both the rubber pads... it's not the flicker you get when the projection speed is off, it's more a fluid, fluttery look - I can only compare it to the look of film running through an Elmo 16-CL without the gate installed.
Posts: 1269
From: Thetford , Norfolk,England
Registered: May 2008
posted March 16, 2014 04:45 AM
It's easy to check for shutter sync on these machines..... With the cover removed on the operating side and with lens, gate aperture plate and pressure plate removed, both the shutter and claw pin are fully visible. Turn the inching knob anticlockwise and observe the claw movement. At the point at which the claw becomes fully forward at the top of its stroke the shutter blade should completely cover the light path. Continue to turn until the claw just withdraws at the bottom of its stroke. The same shutter blade should still be covering the light path. Further rotation should move the blade out of the path and the other two blades will pass through the path until the first blade is back in position before the next claw pulldown.
-------------------- Retired TV Service Engineer Ongoing interest in Telecine....
Posts: 977
From: Ortona, Italy
Registered: Jan 2004
posted March 16, 2014 05:46 AM
It sounds like the claw is not engaging the sprockets properly: in this case the projector will lose the bottom loop and the intermittent movement film must have whe in front of the aperture plate, will be lost to a continous movement. Reasons for this may be:
a) faulty sprocket hole(s): perhaps a torn/faulty splice: this is usually fixed by depressing the loop reformer lever (the same you use during auto-threading, right below the lens) once or twice.
b) misaligned side guides on the very aperture plate: their position is REALLY crucial and critical for the claw pin to engage the sprockets, becaue only a tiny fraction of sprocket areas may be considered common between the two formats (not by chance is the claw pin so slim and 'lonely' on these machines...)
c) aperture plate and pressure shoe not perfectly assembled, perhaps due to some element come apart, thus increasing tolerances (which is extremely unlikely but you should never assume in this hobby...)
d) broken claw pin, most likely due to opening the gate with the claw itself not fully retracted (white dot on inching knob MUST be upwards!!!)
Frankly I cannot think of any more reasons, but I do hope I'm wrong especially on point "d". Best of luck!!
Posts: 40
From: Kansas City, MO, USA
Registered: Sep 2013
posted March 16, 2014 02:50 PM
Thanks Maurizio. I believe it's the claw - everything that can be wrong with this projector is wrong with this projector.