The 3D bit didn't work for me and the position of the electrical layout shown is impractical but it could be positioned under the lamp cover. I tried it out with a 12 volt 5 watt LED and it worked. Then I tried connecting a 12 volt, 50 watt halogen bulb to the 8 volt, 50 watt supply and that worked as well. You could project at reduced or full power on those Eumigs so that makes sense. The only problem is as to how to mount the bulb in the projector.
posted July 10, 2017 08:36 PM
I would prefer a color temp closer to daylight which is doable with LED. No mention of light output 50 watts just does not seam bright enough but you never know. Regardless I give this a thumbs up for its innovation. Thanks for sharing.
Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007
posted July 11, 2017 02:39 AM
It is regrettable that the cost of the CXL 8volt 50watt lamp (A1/17) for the Eumig 502D probably costs more than the value of the projector! Any conversions for a cheaper lamp replacement would be an idea, but few people have a 3D printer. And any professional assistance might be cost prohibitive. A more modern replacement projector is probably the best way to go forward.
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted July 11, 2017 09:29 AM
Quite. I know of an eBay seller who buys projectors at car boot sales for a couple of pounds just to salvage those bulbs.
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted July 11, 2017 06:23 PM
The cheapest CXL (A1/17) 8v 50w bulb I could find was £25.79 ($33). The originals had a life of 25 hours or so, I've read, with luck and a bit of TLC. There are some being produced in China, apparently, and exported here. As Maurice posted, the bulb can cost more than the projector, which is sad given the quality of makes such as Eumig and Sankyo.
posted July 11, 2017 08:27 PM
And let's not forget that the superb Bolex 18-5 projectors also use the 8v 50 w CXL/CXR lamp.
-------------------- The best of all worlds- 8mm, super 8mm, 9.5mm, and HD Digital Projection, Elmo GS1200 f1.0 2-blade Eumig S938 Stereo f1.0 Ektar Panasonic PT-AE4000U digital pj
Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011
posted July 11, 2017 09:56 PM
I still think retrofitting a QLV-1 lamp holder and socket and using an EFM (50w) or EFN (75w) halogen bulb is the simplest and least expensive DIY conversion for replacing the old spaceman CXL/CXR bulb. I've done this with my Bolex 18-5L (Super 8) and I'm now converting my Bolex 18-5 (Std. 8) projector.
-------------------- Janice
"I'm having a very good day!" Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted July 12, 2017 05:44 PM
If the QLV-1 holder fits, then I agree that it's an excellent solution. The trouble is that they aren't sold in the UK as they are rated at 125v whereas our mains electricity voltage is far higher than that. You can buy them on eBay from the USA but the shipping cost makes them very expensive, particularly if they don't fit your projector! I'd be hoping to convert an Eumig 501 and a Sankyo Dualux 1000 so it would be helpful to know if anyone has converted either of these machines using a QLV-1.
Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011
posted July 12, 2017 06:08 PM
Will...If you look at my photo you will see that one of the QLV-1 holders has the socket removed. In some projectors I have bought a different socket and just used the QLV-1 as a holder.
As far as shipping...They aren't very heavy so shipping shouldn't be too high. I seem to always find a good deal $9-$10 on Ebay.
Let me see if the QLV-1 will fit in the Sankyo 1000. I have a junker here and I'll let you know.
-------------------- Janice
"I'm having a very good day!" Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).
posted July 12, 2017 07:18 PM
I couldn't see the purpose of the bridge rectifier in the linked page. The LEDs I have used to replace 12v halogens in other projects have worked perfectly without one. If it was needed then you would have to ensure the LED was plugged in the right way round or it wouldn't light at all, if it does work both ways the rectifier isn't needed.
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted July 12, 2017 07:36 PM
I think that some LEDs work on DC but not on AC, Brian, hence the need for a rectifier. I run a 5W LED from a transformer as a desktop light ( mounted in an used beer can) and it's fine. Connecting other LEDs led to a quick flash of light and that was it.
posted July 13, 2017 05:42 AM
I think most available now have the bridge rectifier built in and earlier ones didn't. The only trouble I have had is with low power ones not drawing enough current for an electronic transformer to function properly, it was a 1.9w lamp with many LEDs and only a couple lit, with or without a separate rectifier. A 4.8w one works perfectly in the same set up without.
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted July 13, 2017 06:26 PM
Good point, Brian. There's a bewildering number of LEDs out there and it's not always clear if they will work with AC. As Janice said, the halogen bulb is an inexpensive replacement.
Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011
posted July 13, 2017 07:35 PM
Hi Will...Here is my initial findings on fitting the QLV-1 Holder into a Sankyo 1000. This is by no means a how-to tutorial. It's only a quick and dirty suggestion of what could be done.
I just scotch taped the pieces into my junker Sankyo 1000 that had all the lamp elements previously gutted. You may or may not have to take everything out.
The QLV-1 holder fits into the lamp cavity length-wise nicely...but not the width. It is slightly too wide for the front cover to close. A metal heat shield hits the vertical bar of the holder when closing.However keep reading...It still might work
I removed the socket that came with the holder. If you are not in the US you would be removing it anyway. Just choose a socket that won't extend too far. The cover needs to fit into that vertical slot on the left.
To get the front cover to close all the way...the only solution I can think of would be to cut out a portion of the heat shield. Since the cover is metal...it should withstand a lot of heat.
In the photo above you can see there are 2 screw holes in the case just below the QLV-1. One idea I had was to use those holes to attach a base that the QLV-1 could be screwed onto. This would raise it up into position. As an example I cut and bent a small piece of sheetmetal. Holes would be drilled into the sheet metal and use screws to attach.
This may seem like a lot of work...and certainly not for everyone ...but that other LED build didn't look like a walk in the park either. If I had a working Sankyo 1000...I think I would give this conversion a try.
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted July 14, 2017 03:43 AM
Thank you for going to the trouble of seeing if it was possible, Janice. "Q" would have been proud of you! That's a big help.
Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011
posted July 14, 2017 12:22 PM
I'm sure you can come up with some modifications of your own. Perhaps small angle brackets to create the shelf to mount the QLV-1. This would make it much stronger. Let us know if you go forward with this mod.
-------------------- Janice
"I'm having a very good day!" Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted July 21, 2017 07:09 PM
Hi, Janice. I played around with my number 2 Sankyo Dualux 1000 and what you suggest looks to be possible. The two screw holes you mentioned are used to mount the socket base plate so that could remain in place. An alternative bulb to the CXR/CXL or A1/17 (UK) was the rare A1/163. Here's a link to one fitted to a Sankyo 1000 on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/382168318868?ul_noapp=true
At last, I've managed to acquire a Sankyo Dualux 2000H after 2 years of being outbid on eBay or seeing others offered at well over my price range so the bulb conversion will be on the back burner for now as I play with my new toy. Looking good so far!
Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011
posted July 26, 2017 01:31 PM
Will...I think getting a 2000H was a good choice. It's a newer better model of the Dualux 1000 with the halogen bulb upgrade.
At least this thread will give someone a place to start if they want to convert their Sankyo 1000. The 1000 when running well is still a great projector. The 1000H model is difficult to find... so a bulb upgrade would be the perfect solution to increasing bulb availability and lowering cost.
Posts: 506
From: Shrewsbury, Shropshire, UK
Registered: Mar 2016
posted July 26, 2017 05:37 PM
Yes, Janice, and I'm impressed by the quality and performance. I can see why you and others speak highly of it. I'll put a thread up later about my purchase. It cost about the same as a new CXL (A1/17) lamp disregarding carriage cost. I'm not giving up on the Sankyo 1000 LED conversion potential though as the supply of the original lamps is likely to dry up.
Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011
posted May 14, 2018 06:53 PM
You know Alan I must admit I got it...but never did anything with it. Like a lot of projects, this one got put on the back burner. Thanks for reminding me though...I need to put this back on my to-do list
-------------------- Janice
"I'm having a very good day!" Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).
posted October 26, 2018 06:08 AM
Hello Janice, I really like the idea to change the holder in the Sankyo 1000. Since I‘ve changed the bulb in my Sankyo 1000 it is not bright like before. I bought a Photolux cxl cxr bulb but it is definitely not worthy. I’ve also removed the glass near the frame that is described in another post and the screening is still very dark. So I guess I should replace the bulb. The price of the bulbs cxl cxr, that are not Photolux, here in Uk are quite expensive, more than a projector. So if could put I a different holder could be a great solution. I guess the holder that you used for your experiment is same holder of the Eumig Mark 610D? It would be great if the Sankyo 1000 could have same brightness. There is any progress in such experiment? Could you please update us with some “tutorial” ? Many thanks
Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011
posted October 26, 2018 05:20 PM
Hi Franco...Since I don't have a working Sankyo 1000 anymore...I no longer have a need to upgrade the lamp. However I have given you several suggestions in the posts above that should give you an idea of what a conversion would entail. Yes...the links you provided are the exact lamp holder I used. However as I previously described...the holder is too wide...the cover won't fit back on. If you can remove a portion of the heat-shield in the cover...the holder should work.
Good Luck and if you get it to work. Post some pics in this thread.
-------------------- Janice
"I'm having a very good day!" Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).