8mm Forum: 9.5 Splicing

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Topic: 9.5 Splicing

Brian Collins
Film Handler

Posts: 96
From: Christchurch UK
Registered: Jan 2007

posted October 29, 2010 10:42 AM

Have a number of early 9.5mm films to transfer (1930's) first one depicts Graf Zeppelin and R101, problem is that the splicing in places is coming apart, the scrape and glue method does not have much effect, maybe because the film is a bit more brittle with age, what would be the best method of splicing this old film bearing in mind what is available on to-days market. The other query is how successful is it to have a spring loaded bottom roller to keep the bottom loop, I know it is used on the Bolex M8, so would it be an advantage to fit to my Ditmar 9.5mm. any advice appreciated.

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Martin Jones
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1269
From: Thetford , Norfolk,England
Registered: May 2008

posted October 29, 2010 12:47 PM

Brian,
Here.... http://www.wittner-kinotechnik.de/katalog/03_verbr/d_s8mm.php

4th item down. You would have to use it by hand, or lay it on a conventional splicer bed... might need some practice
Martin

--------------------
Retired TV Service Engineer
Ongoing interest in Telecine....

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John Davis
Master Film Handler

Posts: 286
From: Dunfermline, Fife, UK
Registered: Jun 2008

posted November 02, 2010 04:31 AM

Hi Brian,
I use a Marguet (I think that's the right spelling) cement splicer on any 9.5mm film that comes my way and regardless of vintage it works very well. It has a lap of about 2mm between the films and this probably helps - I was given a Eumig 8mm splicer which only overlapped by less than 1mm and fould this unusable as the film end was literally hanging on by it's fingernails.
Would a wider overlap help? or does your existing splicer overlap the film ends quite a lot anyway?
John

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Brian Collins
Film Handler

Posts: 96
From: Christchurch UK
Registered: Jan 2007

posted November 03, 2010 06:01 AM

Thanks Martin, checked out that web site but although it is only 3.28euros a roll they require a minimum of 30euros plus postage from Germany. but have been talking to Grahame Newnham from the Nine-Five Page, www.pathefilm.freeserve.co.uk and he has stock to post locally.
By the way John the reason I am having trouble is that as Grahame explained, this is a notched film and the titles are only a few frames long because they are stilled in the projector for a short run so they had to use a low wattage bulb to do this, over time those few frames that was subjected to heat starts to buckle slightly and goes brittle and is very difficult to use cement on, to cement a splice anywhere else on the reel is no problem. I can re-title scenes later once I know where they are and the content of the titles. The other problem with overlapping too much is that the titles are only a few frames long due to the notching and cannot aford to loose too many trying to cement, so a butt joint would be better. Let you know how I get on.

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Martin Jones
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1269
From: Thetford , Norfolk,England
Registered: May 2008

posted November 03, 2010 07:04 AM

Well done Brian! Yes, Grahame is a great guy and a good source of (9.5 mm) bits and bobs... just kicking myself for not thinking of him in the first place!
Martin

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Retired TV Service Engineer
Ongoing interest in Telecine....

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Dino Everette
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1535
From: Long Beach, CA USA
Registered: Dec 2008

posted November 06, 2010 03:49 AM

Brian you can also use a standard 16mm guillotine splicer as the tape covers 2 full frames of 9.5 with nothing intruding in the image area...I generally do my splicing like this and then use one of the old (and very cheap)little notching blocks that they made for doing cement splicing...Basically I lay half of the film across the 16mm splicer and tape over. I cut the edges of the tape off with an exacto. I lift up the film slightly and join it to the other side so both halves are now butted up, and flip over and repeat....Now I have the film taped together but it has wings and two perf holes are covered..I use my snips to trim the sides, and punch the holes out with the old 9.5 punch and move on....
While I'd love to have a CIR 9.5 splicer I just can't afford one

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"You're too Far Out Miss Lawrence"

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Brian Collins
Film Handler

Posts: 96
From: Christchurch UK
Registered: Jan 2007

posted November 06, 2010 09:06 AM

Yes Dino, I know what you mean about the price of the splicer, I have tried your way and it is fine but for punching the slot out cleanly, need to try and make a tool to do it. On my Ditmar if I make an overlapped joint, as it enters the gate it push's the gate back over the pawl and I loose the bottom loop. My Specto takes the joins through OK but for some reason the film does not run smoothly but jitters, but thats another problem to sort out sometime. thanks for your input.

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