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» 8mm Forum   » 8mm Forum   » Sankyo 700 cracked gear, need replacement

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Author Topic: Sankyo 700 cracked gear, need replacement
Seth McKevlin
Junior
Posts: 11
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: Feb 2014

- posted February 24, 2014 09:57 PM      Profile for Seth McKevlin   Email Seth McKevlin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hey guys, first time poster here. I recently bought my first projector and I'm brand new to the hobby. It seems to work fine except it slows down every few frames on a regular basis. I read lots of FAQs prior to jumping in and I made sure to buy new belts as soon as I got the projector. While replacing them, I think I finally figured out what's causing the regular slowdown, the cracked gear shown in this picture. The slowdown occurs when the crack is against the metal gear/shaft above it. My question to you guys is, how in the heck do I find a replacement gear? The projector I have is a Sankyo Sound 700. I assume many of the other Sankyo models made around the same time would use a similarly-sized gear in this area. Does anyone have a spare or know where I could purchase one? Thanks in advance!

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Seth McKevlin
Junior
Posts: 11
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: Feb 2014

- posted March 16, 2014 08:24 PM      Profile for Seth McKevlin   Email Seth McKevlin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
No replies yet, so I thought I'd bump my topic by adding another question. I could probably super glue the gear or maybe even find a newly-manufactured gear of the same size, but I'm hesitant to start taking it apart in order to get to it. Has anyone worked on this model or have any tips? I know I'll be taking lots of pictures and video of the deconstruction!

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Steve Klare
Film Guy

Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003

- posted March 16, 2014 08:48 PM      Profile for Steve Klare   Email Steve Klare   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hey Seth,

Welcome to the 8mm Forum!

Your gear looks to be nylon, which is very unfriendly to being fixed with adhesives, so replacing it is the way to go.

Some of our members here have had luck finding replacement nylon gears at McMaster Carr

McMaster Carr Gears

If you find the perfect match like this it is the best thing. If you find a used gear out of a similar projector, it may be harboring the same weakness and years of stress, and if it hasn't cracked yet, it may soon (still better than nothing...)

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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...

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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011

- posted March 16, 2014 09:34 PM      Profile for Janice Glesser     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks Steve...I'm adding this to my list of resource [Smile]

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Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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Steve Klare
Film Guy

Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003

- posted March 16, 2014 09:53 PM      Profile for Steve Klare   Email Steve Klare   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You're welcome Janice!

They are a wonderful source of what our friends across the pond call "bits and bobs"!

-basically any widget important enough to be available somewhere or other, but too obscure to be in stock at the local hardware store.

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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...

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Terry Lagler
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 525
From: Ontario, Canada
Registered: Apr 2008

- posted March 17, 2014 06:46 AM      Profile for Terry Lagler   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have a non working Sankyo 700, I could probably get the gear out for you if you still need it.
Cheers
Terry

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Seth McKevlin
Junior
Posts: 11
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: Feb 2014

- posted March 17, 2014 09:09 PM      Profile for Seth McKevlin   Email Seth McKevlin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks, Steve. That's good advice. I wasn't sure if glue was the way to go as it may even widen the gap that's already in the gear. Once I pull it out, I'll check out the link for a replacement.

Thanks, Terry. I'll PM you!

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Terry Lagler
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 525
From: Ontario, Canada
Registered: Apr 2008

- posted March 18, 2014 02:30 PM      Profile for Terry Lagler   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
He Seth
I wanted to include a couple of pictures so I thought I'd just reply through the forum.
Yes it will be a bit tricky and require some disassembly to change out that gear. I had already taken part of the projector apart so I don't think I can give you a step by step as I can't remember what parts might be in the way.
But basically it is the sound drum (circled in red) that is the issue as you must move it to get at the gear.

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You must remove the front covers to get at the retaining clip that holds the drum in place.

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As you can see in my pic much of the front has already been removed (you just need to get at the clip)

I just "popped off the clip" (try not to lose it) and just move the drum enough to get it out of the way so you can pull the gear off its spindle. It is held on by a set screw so you will need the right size allen key to loosen it.

You can have my gear - no charge. Just PM me your address and I'll pop it in the mail for you.

Cheers
Terry

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Pasquale DAlessio
Film God

Posts: 3523
From: Bristol,RI, USA
Registered: May 2010

- posted March 18, 2014 04:07 PM      Profile for Pasquale DAlessio     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
When you go to McMaster-Carr go to the power transfer section. You won't believe all the stuff they got. And their service is fast and prices cheap. I have used them many times.

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Seth McKevlin
Junior
Posts: 11
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: Feb 2014

- posted March 19, 2014 08:35 PM      Profile for Seth McKevlin   Email Seth McKevlin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for all the replies. I'll post any additional info I gain from the replacement procedure and hopefully a part number of the brand new gear when I order that. In the meantime I'm going to use Terry's vintage gear. Thanks so much, Terry! [Big Grin]

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Steve Klare
Film Guy

Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003

- posted March 19, 2014 09:06 PM      Profile for Steve Klare   Email Steve Klare   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It's a lot of fun fixing 'em...

-once they're fixed!

Good Luck!

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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...

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Seth McKevlin
Junior
Posts: 11
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: Feb 2014

- posted April 09, 2014 08:54 PM      Profile for Seth McKevlin   Email Seth McKevlin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Well, I installed the new gear (thanks, Terry) and it seemed to work fine but after playing two 200ft reels, the motor has stopped working. If it isn't one thing, it's another, right? My best guess is that I cracked a solder joint man-handling it in order to change that gear but I'm not good at checking for cold joints. I did a visual inspection and continuity tested a few suspicious joints but everything checked out fine. The lamp still works, so there's power to the unit, it's just the motor that won't run in either direction. I have the tools (meter, soldering iron, etc) but I've only built kits with them and have no diagnostic experience. Has anyone has this issue or have some suggestions? Thanks!

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Steve Klare
Film Guy

Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003

- posted April 09, 2014 09:14 PM      Profile for Steve Klare   Email Steve Klare   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Basically where to start is to figure out if voltage is getting to the motor or not.

If you can find a rating plate on the motor you can tell what the voltage should be, and whenther it is AC or DC. So you choose a voltage scale on your meter higher than the voltage rating, and AC or DC measurement as needed. You connect the meter across the motor terminals and try to operate the motor.

If you get the volts but the motor stands still, you have a motor problem. If you don't get the volts, you have an electrical problem.

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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...

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Terry Lagler
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 525
From: Ontario, Canada
Registered: Apr 2008

- posted April 10, 2014 08:51 AM      Profile for Terry Lagler   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
So close Seth!

Hope you can determine the origin of this new problem.

Best of luck.

Terry

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Maurizio Di Cintio
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 977
From: Ortona, Italy
Registered: Jan 2004

- posted April 10, 2014 10:23 AM      Profile for Maurizio Di Cintio     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
On this model motor is DC current at 12 V.

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Maurizio

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Steve Klare
Film Guy

Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003

- posted April 10, 2014 12:01 PM      Profile for Steve Klare   Email Steve Klare   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
That's useful information! (sometimes they don't have a rating plate.)

What I should have mentioned is that if you have no volts at the motor you may have an electrical problem AND a motor problem (effect and cause).

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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...

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Seth McKevlin
Junior
Posts: 11
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Registered: Feb 2014

- posted April 11, 2014 08:56 PM      Profile for Seth McKevlin   Email Seth McKevlin   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks, guys. Steve, is this how you check the voltage? I just put the leads on there and it didn't register a voltage. Then I turned the motor on and it still didn't register any voltage. Does anyone have a schematic? I can't find one so far. I have someone locally that will take a look if have that.

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Steve Klare
Film Guy

Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003

- posted April 12, 2014 07:45 AM      Profile for Steve Klare   Email Steve Klare   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
In looks good to me.

Something you can try is unplug power, take the belt off, unsolder one motor lead, jumper in 12V DC (model train power pack, auto battery charger.....) and see if you can get the motor to spin.

NO car batteries! You'd be one goof away from making a spark that might include molten shrapnel! (Been there!)

At least then you'd know if the motor is a suspect here.

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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...

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