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Author Topic: New, Could Use Help, Eiki SSL-0
Walter L. Preston
Junior
Posts: 4
From: Paintsville, Kentucky
Registered: Jul 2010


 - posted July 13, 2010 07:48 PM      Profile for Walter L. Preston   Author's Homepage   Email Walter L. Preston   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Howdy All;

Yes, it's a another new person blundering through this forum. I've had a desire to be able to convert film to DVD. Several years back, I bought a decent condition Eiki SSL-0 via eBay. So much of history is presented by still photos. I find that very boring. So my purpose here is to get into the mechanical part of the conversion equation. I was inspired by a family who ran quite a bit of film through their camera and then had Kodak convert the analog to first VHS and then later DVD which covered 1927 to the mid 1950's.

I was sure then and positively sure now that their were other substantial historical films of my county. Two weekends ago I finally located by chance a group of unknown numbers of reels or footage of football games from my HS dating from about 1967 to at least or maybe later than 1975. All of it on 16mm. I had heard about this for almost a decade but no one would fess up to where they were located. Being a histerical pack rat, I just have to have copies so have volunteered myself and the Eiki.

Here's the problem. The Eiki I purchased has a few issues. Then I started really reading about what it would take to make the projector work near perfectly. These films are one of kind, no copies available if the Eiki starts chewing on them. I did find a service manual on a SL II model that so far has matched up with what I see in the SSL-0.

For right now I have two questions.

1.) The approved lubrication seems a bit antiquated. At several points a Molybdenum Disulfide grease is recommended. Then it indicates two weights of Silicone oil. It finishes on just a page with a third type of lubricant, Petroleum Oil. Has there been any consolidation of lubricant types? If that has happened, then what is acceptable?

2.) I have the cam tank module out. It's a good thing too. It seems like there isn't much, if any, lubricant in it. But that can be taken care of later. How much Brut force and awkwardness does it take to remove the blade fastener? The pulley with washer and cork was a breeze. I have had some patience with the blade removal. Today is day two of penetrating oil treatments. Any advice would be welcomed.

Just for the record, the Eiki is an SSL-0, serial S39581

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John Pechulis
Film Handler

Posts: 52
From: Ashley, Pa. USA
Registered: Jun 2006


 - posted July 14, 2010 05:05 PM      Profile for John Pechulis   Email John Pechulis   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
.

[ July 14, 2010, 10:04 PM: Message edited by: John Pechulis ]

--------------------
History frozen in the frames of film

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Josef Grassmann
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 190
From: Hennef-Sieg, Germany
Registered: Apr 2005


 - posted July 15, 2010 11:17 AM      Profile for Josef Grassmann   Author's Homepage   Email Josef Grassmann   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
As there doesn´t exist an universal projector grease, still today you will require serveral types of grease and several grades of oil. The recommended products have been tested and approved by OEM´s with regard to their materials.
Therefore I would recommend to stick with factory approved products.
Some technicans will say that molybdenum disulfide grease might be replaced by later developed products. In this case you have to take care that both products mixed together (at point of use e.g. bearing, gear) don`t interact and loose their behaviour to lubricate due to the fact that saponification has occured.
In order to avoid this, you have to remove nearly 100% of old grease and felts have to be replaced by new ones.
Under these circumstances it might be easier and faster to use OEM approved lubricants. They did and they still do their job for several hundreds working hours until they have been renewed.

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Walter L. Preston
Junior
Posts: 4
From: Paintsville, Kentucky
Registered: Jul 2010


 - posted July 15, 2010 12:02 PM      Profile for Walter L. Preston   Author's Homepage   Email Walter L. Preston   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mr. Grassmann;

Thanks for the info on the lubrication. I am cleaning all the lubricated parts to bare surfaces. So I thought this might be an opportunity to bring the lubrication into the 21st century. Not only that, it would have been nice to have local sources. This area is far from having many sources with large selections. Looks like I should stick to the internet for the sources.

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Jeff Taylor
Film Handler

Posts: 70
From: Chatham, NJ
Registered: Aug 2005


 - posted July 15, 2010 03:49 PM      Profile for Jeff Taylor   Email Jeff Taylor   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I don't want to complicate matters, but you may not get satisfactory results from your Eiki. First, there's the issue of the speed the films were shot at; 16-18 frames per second (silent speed), or 24 frames per second (sound speed). The Eiki only shows sound speed unless you have one of the fairly rare models with a sound/silent pulley set--lets hope that's the speed your films were shot at. Next, you need a special shutter to avoid extremely jarring visual effects. In the US (60 cycle) you'd need 24 fps and a five blade shutter vs the two or three bladed shutters normally supplied, along with a synchronous motor and a toothed drive belt to do it properly--all of this missing from the normal Eiki SSL tabletop machine. I don't want to discourage you, and you may get results that are satisfactory to you without all of this concern, but to do it right it's far more complicated than aiming a camcorder at the movie screen.

--------------------
Jeff

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Walter L. Preston
Junior
Posts: 4
From: Paintsville, Kentucky
Registered: Jul 2010


 - posted July 15, 2010 10:41 PM      Profile for Walter L. Preston   Author's Homepage   Email Walter L. Preston   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Mr. Taylor;

I had no idea that I would be in the cam module. So a five blade shutter may be added. My biggest issue right now is disassembling the the cam module. It's being quite stubborn and refuses to come apart gently. The blade retainer is stuck. Either that or I'm dealing with a thread that tightens on a left turn and loosens on a right turn.

Regardless, the flicker won't be much of an issue. It adds a nostalgic flavor to the film. But if that stubborn cam module will come apart, it would be a great time to change the blade out.

I've searched the net for a short time and found that Molybdenum grease is not as rare as I though. Valvoline makes a variation in a plant about 60 miles from here.

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Jeff Taylor
Film Handler

Posts: 70
From: Chatham, NJ
Registered: Aug 2005


 - posted July 16, 2010 09:53 AM      Profile for Jeff Taylor   Email Jeff Taylor   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Good luck! It may interest you to know that virtually all of the Eikis had cam tanks made by one man at the factory--that was his only job. All were hand assembled and hand tweaked and filed until he was satisfied. Too bad you can't borrow him for your project, but he's long gone now! You may have noticed that Richard Patchett from Michigan turns up on this forum from time to time. He repairs Eikis and supplies parts. Let's hope he sees your posts and chimes in, or you could email him. His website is rcsclassic16mm.com

--------------------
Jeff

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Walter L. Preston
Junior
Posts: 4
From: Paintsville, Kentucky
Registered: Jul 2010


 - posted July 17, 2010 03:22 PM      Profile for Walter L. Preston   Author's Homepage   Email Walter L. Preston   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Jeff;
Richard has replied to my message. He had one like mine a while back. He had to soak the entire cam module in outboard motor oil that was 12 years old for a week before it loosened up.

So I've taken some 10W30 and 30 weight motor oils, poured it all in a pan and am soaking it now. Cross my fingers, it will work.

The cam module looks great except for being stubborn. Oh well, it matches its owner.

Walter

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Richard C Patchett
Master Film Handler

Posts: 424
From: Flint Mi 48506
Registered: Dec 2007


 - posted July 18, 2010 10:35 PM      Profile for Richard C Patchett   Author's Homepage   Email Richard C Patchett   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Greetings
This is what i use in all of my projectors that i service.
At one time it was sold by Radio Shack Called Super Gel Which is no longer Sold by them.
Did some research found the maker of product. Which is now called
Super Lube by Synco Chemical Corporation
is a patented synthetic NLGI
grade 2 heavy-duty, multipurpose lubricant with
PTFE. Synthetic base fluids and the addition of
PTFE micro powders combine to form a premium
lubricant that provides longer life protection against
friction, wear, rust and corrosion. Machinery lasts
longer, downtime is reduced, and productivity is
increased.
Super Lube® Grease is a USDA listed Food
Grade lubricant, rated H-1 for incidental food
contact.
Super Lube® Grease will not run or drip, does not
evaporate or form gummy deposits and will not
melt or separate.

Super Lube® Grease is a synthetic, heavy-duty
lubricant that is compatible with most other
lubricants.
Super Lube® Grease outlasts conventional
greases 50-100% and has excellent adhesion.

Sold at Precision Tool and Supply

I also sell this at $8.00 per tube of 3 oz plus mailing

[ July 19, 2010, 09:42 AM: Message edited by: Richard C Patchett ]

--------------------
RC’s Classic Collection
16 mm Parts & Service
Elmo, Eiki, Bell & Howell +
http://www.rcsclassic16mm.com/

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Richard C Patchett
Master Film Handler

Posts: 424
From: Flint Mi 48506
Registered: Dec 2007


 - posted July 19, 2010 09:37 AM      Profile for Richard C Patchett   Author's Homepage   Email Richard C Patchett   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Greetings
This is what i use as a
Precision Oilier $3.49

Model: 64-2301 | Catalog #: 64-2301
At Radio Shack

This PTFE super lubricant sticks to most surfaces without washing off. It is quite useful with electronics, electric motors marine equipment and more. Most of all, its precision tip it fits into hard-to-reach places.

* ¾" ounce
* Won't wash off
* Precision tip--fits hard to reach areas

--------------------
RC’s Classic Collection
16 mm Parts & Service
Elmo, Eiki, Bell & Howell +
http://www.rcsclassic16mm.com/

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