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Topic: Refurbishing your GS1200
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Andrew Woodcock
Film God
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
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posted January 01, 2016 03:00 AM
Rik, in answer to your first questions here, The pull force guage, the oscilloscope, the different grease selection etc etc are all necessary to use as accurate and scientific measuring devices and the grease selection as the preferred correct lubricant if you want to recreate the professional standards to which these machines were designed and built to in the first place.
You can of course, take many short cuts and do away with one half of the pro equipment and still be able to achieve some very good results. However, if you want your machine as you describe, like a brand new one, then really everything would have to be set as such using the professional and accurate measuring devices to do so.
This is where the guys who have a workshop fully equipped with these professional instruments and tools, like Bill Parsons and Ugo seemingly does, will always be able to achieve excellent results from their days work as they almost certainly eliminate any guess work when carrying out their repairs.
To me, having the ability to recognize your motor circuit board has a fault, then be able to successfully remove it to send it away for professional repair using the instruments and tools described, then having the ability to build everything back together again successfully, is about as good as anyone in a standard home environment with a standard set of tools, could ever realistically expect.
This is something that you really should be pleased with yourself for rather than pointing out deficiencies I'd say.
The end result is all that matters and a working projector, no matter how many people we involve to get there, is the result we all want to achieve.
The closer you can possibly get to ensuring all repair procedures are carried out to a professional standard, the greater chance you will have of obtaining a "like new" feel to your machine. Always try to use the genuine parts where possible (with the exception of the Elmo film guides), and use only the recommended lubricants or the very nearest technical equivalents if no longer available.
The degree in electronics would certainly help you understand many of the electrical and electronic faults on the complex machines like your xenon, but you have to also have the practical skills and confidence to carry out the repair and the rebuild to the same or similar standards that a repair technician or engineer would.
This is something that can only ever be learned through experience in the field so to speak, and no University course would necessarily teach you all of this.
Also many extremely well educated and technical people I have met, do not always possess the most logical set of troubleshooting skills I have found.
This, again, is something that only experience of regularly doing this act, can possibly give you even one half of the skills you need to have a chance of doing this regularly with a modicum of success.
[ January 01, 2016, 04:22 AM: Message edited by: Andrew Woodcock ]
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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
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Paul Adsett
Film God
Posts: 5003
From: USA
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted January 01, 2016 11:27 AM
I agree with Paul, " If it ain't broke, don't fix it". Stripping down a projector is always a risky business, and in the case of the GS1200 there are many things that can go wrong in the process. So if it's working OK, leave it alone, except for routine cleaning and lubrication.
But every so often you have to bite the bullet and attempt a repair yourself, unless you want to pay for the cost, and risk, of shipping the projector to Bill Parsons or Leon Norris.
I once had to strip out all the electronics from my GS to replace a couple of relays on the main PC board. It was a time consuming process, taking several hours over a 2 day period, and I had no idea how successful the repair was until I had it all back together, but it was a total success. It pays to say a silent prayer when you fire up the machine again for the first time!
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The best of all worlds- 8mm, super 8mm, 9.5mm, and HD Digital Projection,
Elmo GS1200 f1.0 2-blade
Eumig S938 Stereo f1.0 Ektar
Panasonic PT-AE4000U digital pj
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Paul Browning
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1006
From: West Midlands United Kingdom
Registered: Aug 2011
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posted January 01, 2016 02:40 PM
I would ask a mechanic friend of mine to have a look at my car as I can hear the tappets on the engine "tapping", he would answer, " the time to worry is when you cannot hear them tapping". This machine was ahead of its time when first introduced back then, with all its features and sophisticated recording facilities, you can forgive it that "run in" sound that you speak of. It's still one of the only projectors (Super 8) you can still get the sound heads for, and for the most part all other components can be repaired and improved as you go, this does not involve taking every part off the frame to do it, as they are made in modular form, as is typical of the Japanese products of the 70's and 80's. It's about knowing your limitation's as to how much you can do without causing more damage, which will cost twice as much to put right if you get it to someone who knows what they doing.
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Andrew Woodcock
Film God
Posts: 7477
From: Manchester Uk
Registered: Aug 2012
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posted January 02, 2016 08:01 PM
C,D,E are still definitely available in industry today here in the UK. I know this because I use them all.
A& B seem a little less familiar now so let me do a little research into their properties and I will get back to you on these with equivalents if they're no longer available.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Daphne 44 product appears to be a Idemitsu mineral oil of Asian origin. Probably very easily substituted by an American or European equivalent.
Just like the original Bosch silicone oil used for Bauer felt pad. It is long gone but so long as you find something even closely resembling the original, you really won't be a million miles away.
Our projectors by no means either test the load limits or temperature range of any professional application lubricant.
Incidentally, I do and don't go with the adage of "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
It's a very contradictory subject, but most of my own personal learnings are taken from a machine at work or in the home, while it's still working perfectly well.
If you take nothing from any machine while it works well, how on earth do you stand any chance of diagnosing it once it goes wrong???
You very much, need to know exactly how it is supposed to work in the first instance, to even stand a chance when it no longer does.
By the same token,I don't believe in meddling unnecessarily, any intervention comes with a risk!
It's all about having the wisdom to know when it's best to take a look at what's going on, I find.
It's very much an area covered in grey and certainly not a black and white debate.
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"C'mon Baggy..Get with the beat"
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