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Author Topic: eiki projectors
Daniel Aveline
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 220
From: Paris, France
Registered: Aug 2009


 - posted December 12, 2009 02:06 PM      Profile for Daniel Aveline   Email Daniel Aveline   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I have been told by different people that eiki projectaors were not reliable .What is the truth?

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D Aveline

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted December 12, 2009 02:31 PM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
I haven't found that to be true. There are lots of models of Eiki machines. Is there anyone in particular that they complained about and what was the complaint?

What happens with lots of projectors is they get "worked on" by people without the training or knowledge to do the job and they leave the projector in a mess. The problem the Eiki's have, if they have a problem, is that they will still run if out of adjustment. They'll have problems if misadjusted, but they'll run. A few minutes with a good technician will put it right if the machine hasn't been abused or have broken parts.

John

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Daniel Aveline
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 220
From: Paris, France
Registered: Aug 2009


 - posted December 12, 2009 02:44 PM      Profile for Daniel Aveline   Email Daniel Aveline   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thank You John,
Some of them told me that the sound device was of poor quality
and others told me that they actually scratch films.

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D Aveline

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Michael O'Regan
Film God

Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted December 12, 2009 02:53 PM      Profile for Michael O'Regan   Email Michael O'Regan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I use Eikis - I've found them to be totally reliable, unlike many other makes I've used.

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David Erskine
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 230
From: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Registered: Aug 2008


 - posted December 12, 2009 03:05 PM      Profile for David Erskine   Email David Erskine   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
M- I'll second that! I've got around 20 of 'em, ranging from an RM converted to 9.5 up to EX-4000P.
Merry Grimble to all. Cheers, David E

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I've NEVER let failure go to MY head!

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Claus Harding
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1149
From: Washington DC
Registered: Oct 2006


 - posted December 12, 2009 05:41 PM      Profile for Claus Harding   Email Claus Harding   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Easy, good-quality machines in my experience. I have the regular SSL and the X3500 Xenon, and they run well and consistently.
Some folks feel that Eikis don't handle damaged film as well as some other brands of projectors, but as far as basic picture/sound quality and ease of use, they are great.

Claus.

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"Why are there shots of deserts in a scene that's supposed to take place in Belgium during the winter?" (Review of 'Battle of the Bulge'.)

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Bruce McGee
Junior
Posts: 7
From: Asheville North Carolina
Registered: Nov 2004


 - posted January 08, 2010 06:34 PM      Profile for Bruce McGee   Email Bruce McGee   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
The only shortfall I see with Eiki is the use of the round urethane belts on early models. Eiki seems to think these things are gold.

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My whole body's a weapon!

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Wayne Tuell
Master Film Handler

Posts: 488
From: Minden, NV
Registered: Jul 2009


 - posted January 09, 2010 01:53 PM      Profile for Wayne Tuell   Author's Homepage   Email Wayne Tuell   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
IMHO EIKI's are good machines. I use or have used NT-O's NT-OT's (factory telecine) SNT's even an old XENON pedestal 5020. They are all just as reliable as my Kodak, B&H's and Elmo.

It is true that the amber EIKI belts can break what would seem pre-mature from time to time. Use ANY projector long enough and something will wear-out or break. To say the brand as a whole is not any good is just not true.

If the machines are scratching film, maybe it is a dirty film path which the blame should be placed on the shoulders of the projectionist not the projector.

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www.16mmDrive-InFilms.com

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Josef Grassmann
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 190
From: Hennef-Sieg, Germany
Registered: Apr 2005


 - posted January 12, 2010 11:51 AM      Profile for Josef Grassmann   Author's Homepage   Email Josef Grassmann   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Eiki projectors are very reliable. They need service from time to time as every other brand of projectors.
Eiki still supplies spares and service /maintance nowadays.

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frank arnstein
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 534
From: Gold Coast. Australia
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted January 17, 2010 12:28 AM      Profile for frank arnstein   Author's Homepage   Email frank arnstein   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi to Daniel & all the others on this Eiki thread.
I love Eiki Projectors & collect and restore them as an ongoing hobby.
The ones I buy are RT1 & NT1 or later.
The SSSL slim Gold versions are beautiful and Slotloaders are fun to use.
The older early Green ST/M models are OK too but most are worn & some may need some attention to Spindle shafts which can be slightly bent from being bumped.
Then they flip off film when reverse projecting.
They also need special thin arm belts which tend to slip with full reels.

So I reccommend you stick to the Gold, the Blue or the Brown ones but give the Greenies a miss as I think they are too old & much riskier to buy at auction.

P.S. How many of you have added oil to the camtank of your Eikis?
There is a big felt pad inside the camtank that wipes the cam lobe each time it passes. After 40 odd years, the felt pads are bone dry on most of the ones I have checked. The cam will soon wear if fresh oil isn't added. There is a small oil fill point on the top of the camtank into which you need to add about 30 drops of new sewing machine oil.
If you do that, it will run for years without any trouble from the cam/claw mechanism. By the time you can hear the cam squealing its usually too late to save the cam surface which scores & from then on, they become noisy machines.

The moral is,
"A few drops in time, will save you a lot more than 9.($)

Dogtor Frankarnstein [Big Grin]

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At Projector Heaven the Focus is always on Detail.

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[o:/o]<|=- dogtor@projectorheaven.com.au
//``\\
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Michael O'Regan
Film God

Posts: 3085
From: Essex, UK
Registered: Oct 2007


 - posted January 17, 2010 03:06 AM      Profile for Michael O'Regan   Email Michael O'Regan   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Nice tip about the cam oil, Frank.

Is it possible to check the oil level in these?

Where, precisely, is the cam tank?

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Josef Grassmann
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 190
From: Hennef-Sieg, Germany
Registered: Apr 2005


 - posted January 17, 2010 07:51 AM      Profile for Josef Grassmann   Author's Homepage   Email Josef Grassmann   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
You can´t see the felt as it is inside of housing, but is always dry as already mentioned. There is a nickel plated cover on top(size: finger nail of small finger). If you loose the screw (not easily to reach), you can shift cover to side and drop oil into hole.
After oiling - if possible- wait 1 or 2 days until oil has wetted through the felt towards cam. Felt is rather big, half size of thumb so oil needs time to spread.

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John Whittle
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 791
From: Northridge, CA USA
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted January 17, 2010 12:22 PM      Profile for John Whittle   Email John Whittle       Edit/Delete Post 
One other note on early Eiki Projectors. The MS series and the ST/M series used windings on the motor to supply the reduced AC voltages to the Amp. The problem with this is that changes on the motor load will change the voltage. The RT and later series (as long as they use the low voltage lamp) have a transformer that supplies the Lamp current and Amp voltages for the amp and exciter lamp.

Also the amps in the RT series and later have a much better controlled DC supply for the exciter lamp. (A slight load on the MS/ST series on the motor decreased the AC to the exciter lamp which decreased the lamp output and lowers the sound level).

If you can, try and find the amps without the big all integrated power module. When these fail, they aren't repairable, just replace. The later amps went back to descrete components and can be repaired.

The last models, the SSN and SSL have a much improved design and are by far the best.

As for the cam tank, the oil on the felt is used to slowly wip the cam plate to provide lubrication. On the RT and later machines, the claw lever has a nylon or plastic bearing surface for both the up and down and in and out movement and last much longer than the earlier design.

The ST and earlier cam tanks are virtual copies of the RCA 400 with metal spring steel top and bottom moving the claw up and down on a mircata cam, the in and out are on a steel stamped plate with a nylon/plastic bushing.

In all these machines, as the in out bushing wears, the claw actually increases it's protrusion into the film. Wear on the RT/M and later up and down bushing will only slightly change the framing.

Eiki changed from the mircata cam to a cast steel cam when the man who made all the cams at the Eiki factory died (this happend with the introduction of the RT/M Royal Series). They took several examples of his last work and then cast them for future projectors. Up to that time, every cam had been hand cut and finished by that one expert employee.

John

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