Introduction and Asking for help

[Peter Bretan]

Thank you everyone for your help comments.

Simon ... I did wonder whether I had the film the wrong way round in the camera The raw stock was wound on the spool correctly (the matt emulsion side facing towards the inside of the spool and when loaded, faced the lens). Unfortunately I didn't take notes when I was shooting the scenes but I do remember it being sunny so I must have used f/16 (or above) most of the time.

Are ND filters available for the B&H Sportster? Is there a link to a web site for how to make or adapt ND filters?

I've just done a light leak test. I put one of those tiny key ring LEDS inside the chamber, switched it on and closed the door of the camera. Couldn't see any light escaping from around the door (phew). The only light I could see is when I depressed the switch to start 'filming'.

I'm starting to think that it is an exposure issue (assuming there were no issues with the processing).

I'm going to give the camera another go. Does anyone have any hints/tips to test the camera? Any recommendations for where to buy film? I'm in the UK. Many thanks

Pete

[Simon Wyss]

The camera can’t do wrongly. Wind the spring, open the door, pull the pressure plate open, and release the mechanism. You should be able to see the shutter open and close the aperture as well as the shuttle claw move down and up. The lens you can inspect detached from the camera by observing the action of the diaphragm when turning its ring. Always open the diaphragm fully to close it to the desired value from there.

Filter are at times found on internet trade sites, search for Bell & Howell accessories and filters.

Film you can buy from a number of dealers.

http://www.toeppenfilm.com/
https://www.buy8mmfilm.com/
https://www.on8mil.com/product-categ...es/standard-8/
https://shop.silverprint.co.uk/Fomap.../55758/V11801/
and more

[Simon Wyss]

Amendment. If you ever wish to move up from the Sportster to a turret version, my recommendation is a GB-Bell & Howell 605 T. Those were made in England and have the D-mount threads. The American 134 Aristocrat models are equipped with a thinner turret disc that in addition bears different threads which make an adapter ring necessary that again only fits a number of designated optics. The 605 T has the critical focuser. Together with the focusing alignment gauge as it was named by B. & H. you can make precise close-up shots, even macro pictures. I am right now working on a set of extension rings for D-mount lenses similar to the TUBEX of Paillard-Bolex. Everybody interested in them please do come back to me. There were more D-mount turret cameras with a critical focusing finder. My website will be switched on in a couple of weeks.

[Maurice Leakey]

Peter
Here are details of ND filters available in the UK. They, of course, are too large and will have to be taped onto your Sportster's lens.
https://www.srb-photographic.co.uk/n...ers-1284-c.asp


Maurice

[Peter Bretan]

Thank you Simon and Maurice for the links.

Just been looking at other 8mm cine cameras ... as one does ... especially those dating from the early 1950s. The reason why I'm looking at cameras from that time is that they fit the era that my Father-in-law was shooting his film. Also I rather like the retro, clockwork mechanical feel to these cameras.

I've been looking at the Bolex B8 and C8 models. I was wondering about the those with light metering (C8-SL?). Do the light meters in these early cameras run on batteries or photo-volt sort of thing like my Leningrad light meter? I'm assuming that the sensitivity of the meters fade with time. Does anyone have any tips or things to watch out for regarding these early Bolex cameras?

Many thanks

Pete

[Maurice Leakey]

The battery used for the light meters was a mercury cell of 1.5 volts. These are no longer manufactured as I understand it due to the presence of mercury. Unfortunately, replacements which are now available are only 1.2 volts which makes them undesirable in a camera as the meter will be inaccurate.
I suggest your steer clear of any such cameras. The earlier Bolex standard 8 cameras used manual settings. A separate meter or an exposure chart being used.


Maurice

[Simon Wyss]

The Paillard-Bolex C 8 L(A), B 8 L(A), and D 8 L(A) have a selenium cell with which you measure the light behind the lens.
Selenium cells do not wear out, it’s always a contact problem due to oxidation. Most often there’s a bronze spring ring that just needs to be taken off, cleaned, rubbed a little against the cell, and the circuit is good again. One problem are the soldering points (if used).

A British made camera I can recommend is the Specto 88 of 1953. Quite simple but runs for 67 seconds on a wind. D mount allows the use of a reflex finder lens and many more.

[Maurice Leakey]

The Bolex C8 is a nice little camera.
http://www.bolexcollector.com/cameras/c8.html


Maurice

[Peter Bretan]

The Bolex C8 is a nice little camera.
http://www.bolexcollector.com/cameras/c8.html


Maurice

Thank you Maurice. I rather like the look of the C8.

I might be thinking about this in the wrong way ... so please forgive me ... but doesn't a ND filter block out some light? For example, if the meter reading without an ND filter was f/16 ... and I put a 2 stop ND filter in front of the lens, I could open the lens to f/8. But ... is the amount of light going through the lens at f/8 plus ND filter the same as going through the lens at f/16 without an ND filter? If my film was under exposed at f/16 then it would be under exposed at f/8 with an ND filter.

Many Thanks

Pete

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

I might be thinking about this in the wrong way ... so please forgive me ... but doesn't a ND filter block out some light? For example, if the meter reading without an ND filter was f/16 ... and I put a 2 stop ND filter in front of the lens, I could open the lens to f/8. But ... is the amount of light going through the lens at f/8 plus ND filter the same as going through the lens at f/16 without an ND filter? If my film was under exposed at f/16 then it would be under exposed at f/8 with an ND filter.

Many Thanks

Pete

You may consider ND filter as what "sunglasses" do on bright/sunny beach day.

How hard you have to close your eyes just enough to see things without fuzzing up the vision?
Now with the sunglasses on, clearer view without the need to squeeze your eyelids .

Probably grossly oversimplified explanation, but you get the idea.

[Simon Wyss]

After having put a filter on the lens you set your lightmeter to a lower film speed, say ISO 50 instead of 100 for a 2x filter. Then you measure, set iris, and expose.

[Peter Bretan]

After having put a filter on the lens you set your lightmeter to a lower film speed, say ISO 50 instead of 100 for a 2x filter. Then you measure, set iris, and expose.

Thank you Simon. So I need to be thinking in terms of changing the ISO setting on the lightmeter rather than the lens setting. Are there any 'rules' or a relationship between the change in ISO setting and the strength of the ND filter (like you said for a x2 filter, going from 100 ISO to 50 ISO).

Thanks

Pete

[Brian Fretwell]

Yes divide the ISO rating by the factor of the filter i.e. 2 for X2 and 4 for X4, but 8 if you combine them one in front of the other (usually done to lower the depth of field to keep part of the picture out of focus).

[Maurice Leakey]

One advantage of buying a genuine Bolex is that they are still in business and can provide spares, servicing and repairs.
https://bolex.ch/about/


Maurice

[Peter Bretan]

The Bolex C8 is a nice little camera.
http://www.bolexcollector.com/cameras/c8.html


Maurice

Hi Maurice, also been looking at the B8 camera. To me they look more-or-less the same except the B8 has a dual lens turret. In your experience, which of the two models would be a 'better' buy? (I know the answer depends on a lot of factors ... but just in general terms like reliability etc.)

Many Thanks

Pete