Eumig Mark 605D

[Katie Davison]

Hi,

Apologies if this in the wrong thread, I am a total amateur when it comes to anything like this. I got a Eumig Mark 605D projector from my uncle with a lot of family films, I didn't try it for ages but decided to try and get it working. Problem number one, the drive belt had gone. Managed to fix that no problem. Now however the auto-thread function doesn't seem to work and the bulb doesn't turn on at all. The switch works in all other positions from what I can gather just not in the auto-thread position, which is also supposed to warm up the bulb.

Does anyone have any suggestions of anything I can try? I've had it to pieces and there's no loose wires or anything like that.

Thanks in advance.

[Joseph Banfield]

First of all there is nothing special one has to do to autoload a film on this model. You stick the film into the front of the slot and keep pushing it until the mechanism catches it and pulls it through the machine.

The light problem could be a bad bulb, corroded lamp pins, bad or corroded lamp socket, the micro switch could be out of alignment or the 12v winding on the power supply could be open.

If when you start the machine do you see a faint glow from the lamp while it is pre-heating? If not, check the pins on the lamp for corrosion and clean them up with an emery board. And above all else ensure that your lamp is not burned out.

If no results stick the probes of a volt meter into the lamp socket while the machine is in the projection mode with lamp setting. You should set the meter to read AC volts and see about 12 volts. If no voltage is found trace the wires from the lamp socket back to the power transformer and measure again. If you find your 12 volts at the transformer then you know the fault lies either in the micro switch or the lamp socket. No 12 volts at the transformer means an open winding in the power transformer.

Hope that helps.

[Nick Regan]

One problem with this model is when using the auto threading the end of the film must be trimmed to the correct shape or the film will stick in the mechanism or even just not enter the film path.

As to the lamp problem first thing I would do is remove the lamp, look and see if the lamp filament is in one piece, if it is broken then obviously you need a new lamp, if it looks complete try to clean the base of the bulb. Sometimes if its been sat unused for a long time just reseating the lamp can make a better contact.

Nick

[Maurice Leakey]

Katie

Is the film selector switch in the correct position?

This is a dual gauge projector. It takes standard 8 or the newer Super 8 but you must have the vertical selector switch in the correct position. Top is Standard, bottom is Super 8 and Single, the latter is a special mainly Japanese system which you are unlikely to meet.

The lamp is a 100 watt at 12 volts and is known as an EFP and A1/231.

Good luck

[Erik Snel]

9 out of 10 times a non working lamp is corroded lamp pins or a bad lamp plug. never have i encountered a bad transformer. indeed the start of the film needs to be a special white piece of film that is thicker then the normal film and it needs to be cut with the supplied film cutter or else it will never take the film up. you can cut it by hand, just cut between two perforations and then cut two 45 degree angles on the corners. and make sure the selector is set to the right film, Big holes in the film and small holes in the reels: regular 8, small holes in the film and big holes in the reel : super 8.

[John Sangalli]

Can someone explain the preheat function of the lamp? Is this a lower voltage than 12 volts. I have the 610D and I do see light when in the auto thread but no light at all in the forward position. Would this be a microswitch problem only or could it also be a transformer issue?

[Brian Fretwell]

The function is to prevent the great shock of turning the lamp on by running it at a low voltage to warm the filament and increase it's resistance so the initial current surge is lower. I would have thought that the lower voltage for the preheat would be from a lower tap on a single secondary wiring of the transformer and if it failed the main voltage (12v) would be absent.

[Erik Snel]

you can check this by opening up the projector, identify the micro switch for the lamp. then with a small screwdriver engage the switch, it must click, if it doesn't it is broken. if it does plug it in mains (carefull the transformer is now live and will hurt you if you touch it) and push the switch again, the lamp should now turn on. if the switch is misaligned the rotary switch will not push the micro switch

[Joseph Banfield]

Yes, indeed the lower voltage for pre-heating the lamp is supplied from a lower tap on the secondary side of the power transformer. Pre-heating the lamp was a great idea to make those lamps last much longer. The usual failure of any lamp is usually when first switched on. Rarely do they fail during actual operation.

As a note though, Eumig removed lamp pre-heating starting with the cosmetically redesigned 614D and 624D and probably others. On these machines the only things changed were the better focusing assembly, the new cosmetic case and the power transformer without the lower voltage pre-heating tap. Other than that it is exactly the same machine as the earlier 600 series like the 605D, 610D, ect.. But for those of you want pre-heating on the 614D or 624D a simple transformer swap and the addition of a single wire from any of the earlier 600 series will give you that, which is what I did to my 614D machine because the focusing is much more accurate than the sloppy 800 series type that had been used on the 605 and 610 models. I probably have the only Eumig 614D in the world that has lamp pre-heating!!!

[Maurice Leakey]

Joseph
What voltage is used on the pre-heat setting?

[Joseph Banfield]

Maurice, the secondary winding produces exactly 3v AC for pre-heating.

[Katie Davison]

First of all there is nothing special one has to do to autoload a film on this model. You stick the film into the front of the slot and keep pushing it until the mechanism catches it and pulls it through the machine.

The light problem could be a bad bulb, corroded lamp pins, bad or corroded lamp socket, the micro switch could be out of alignment or the 12v winding on the power supply could be open.

If when you start the machine do you see a faint glow from the lamp while it is pre-heating? If not, check the pins on the lamp for corrosion and clean them up with an emery board. And above all else ensure that your lamp is not burned out.

If no results stick the probes of a volt meter into the lamp socket while the machine is in the projection mode with lamp setting. You should set the meter to read AC volts and see about 12 volts. If no voltage is found trace the wires from the lamp socket back to the power transformer and measure again. If you find your 12 volts at the transformer then you know the fault lies either in the micro switch or the lamp socket. No 12 volts at the transformer means an open winding in the power transformer.

Hope that helps.

Oh I know how to load it but the mechanism was catching it, it also has the white film at the beginning and is cut to the correct shape and set to the correct setting for the type of film. I've managed to get the auto-thread working again now but still no bulb.

As far as the bulb goes I changed it straight away because there were some brand new spare ones in the box and although the one that was in was in tact I had no idea how long it'd been in there. The pins don't seem corroded so I'll try with the voltmeter today and report back.

Appreciate the advice, hopefully I'll get it working today!

[Shane C. Collins]

I once owned a Eumig 610D that had a similar problem. I ended up finding the pins were wore out, and so I replaced the socket and wiring. That fixed the issue and I never had problems again. Here is a photo of the lamp socket you would need. You can snip the wires at the lamp and connect the new wires with the wires coming from the back of the projector. These ceramic sockets are notorious for wearing out after years of heat and corrosion. You could also trace the wires back to the transformer and replace them this way. But you would need to remove the wires from the wire protector wrapping. Hope this helps. You can use wire connectors to attach both ends of the wires. I'm including a photo here of those too. Just crimp the two ends together and they will hold tightly.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/G8-Lamp-hol...-/352980859317

[Erik Snel]

I would advice to not crimp, please use solder and shrinkwrap. That lasts way longer.

[Shane C. Collins]

Erik your probably right! I was just thinking of an easier fix for her that didn't involve much equipment!