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I don’t remember having that problem, then again it‘s been 8 years since I did that particular surgery.
Can you pull the shaft out from the other end (the roller), to make clearance?
Managed to force it out. I tried cleaning as much I could, but there is a spring at the back that I can’t clean due to the limited clearance - I hope it won’t affect operations?
Looking at your last picture Martin it looks like the drive pulley on the motor might be starting to crack. I would keep an eye on that if I were you. Van Eck can supply replacements if needed. https://van-eck.net/en/product/elmo_..._motor_pulley/
I bought square belts frpm The Real Image for my ST1200.
Never knew I could glue those myself.
Probably not cleaned good enough, cause the takeup reel cannot take the full 360 meter reel and stops turning when it gets more heavy
This have always been the case, but in the past 240 was the max we used anyway.
This is a slow drying, pretty tough, temperature resistant adhesive, and works nicely for this. It's nice to have for other purposes too.
It's very commonly used by people that make jewelry, so in addition to Amazon (etc.), you should be able to find it in places like Michaels, maybe hardware stores. I think I bought it at Home Depot once too.
I put the tyraps on about every two inches, and applied the cement in between. When it was cured, I cut the tyraps off. This worked out to about 8 bonds around the circumference.
Every so often I go back in and check the bonds and redo any that have loosened. Most times they are all OK.
Originally posted by Matthieu van der SluisView Post
I bought square belts frpm The Real Image for my ST1200.
Never knew I could glue those myself.
Probably not cleaned good enough, cause the takeup reel cannot take the full 360 meter reel and stops turning when it gets more heavy
This have always been the case, but in the past 240 was the max we used anyway.
Just curious--has anyone found a solution for the anemic capability for larger reels on the ST1200HD? The rewind is truly pathetic and slows to a crawl before stopping on larger reels. On top of that, it spools the film so loosely that it makes more sense to use mounted rewinds than to use the projector's function. I've owned several projectors over the years--Eumig, Chinon, and Elmo--and none had a rewind as marginal as the ST1200. It's like the Elmo engineers set the bar low and barely hit the mark on that count.
This is a slow drying, pretty tough, temperature resistant adhesive, and works nicely for this. It's nice to have for other purposes too.
It's very commonly used by people that make jewelry, so in addition to Amazon (etc.), you should be able to find it in places like Michaels, maybe hardware stores. I think I bought it at Home Depot once too.
I put the tyraps on about every two inches, and applied the cement in between. When it was cured, I cut the tyraps off. This worked out to about 8 bonds around the circumference.
Every so often I go back in and check the bonds and redo any that have loosened. Most times they are all OK.
(I can't imagine this working without the glue!)
Done, but the 2 rubber wheels (both 18 and 24) are still not touching the shutter wheel…
How do I go to close the gap and adjust the « pressure »?
Ethan, I take it you are pushing the Yellow rewind lever down when selecting reverse to rewind the film. I have never really seen an issue with rewinding on the ST1200 range of machines.
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