Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

My real-time telecine project

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Here are the two clips Alwyn,
    taken with the LED light and the other one with the Halogen lamp.
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folde..._O?usp=sharing

    Good point Robert. Did not realize that the diffuser can impact the color but that makes sense. It can act as a filter. Learn something ever day.
    I really never expected good results with projection but with the small image on the screen and variable lamp power source it is possible to get pretty decent results.

    Comment


    • #32
      Thanks Stan.

      Comment


      • #33
        You know what? The primitive halogen lamp is literally my "secret sauce" when scanning super8 films, especially negative stock.

        As all incandescant lamp will always have full spectrum thus giving best color rendition. It's the hard fact, you can't deny it. And since virtually all cameras can be white-balanced down to 2500 kelvin so color temperature would never be the issue.

        You may need LED light source with something 95 CRI to be in the same ballpark with halogen. However the cost would be no comparison - I bough my 3x pack of 12v 50w halogen lamp for just $3 (so $1 each) try finding any LED with 95 CRI at this price.

        The fun part is when I shared this to a Facebook group dedicated to film scanning topic, I was greeted with TONS of negative / insult comments. 9 out of 10 insist on $300 high CRI LED light source otherwise the result would be crap. The remaining one would think that's skeptical - to say at least. In the end I just heck with that and stick with my $3 solution, and let them keep fumbling around with color grading up until today...

        Comment


        • #34
          Stan,

          Thanks for providing the files. I played around with the led.mp4 video in Kdenlive and balanced the RGB as best I could, plus adjusted the white point and Lift/Gamma/Gain. While not perfect, I think I got it close. It looks pretty nice in my opinion. Some scenes are more affected than others and it probably needs a scene-by-scene correction.


          Click image for larger version

Name:	Screenshot 2024-08-31 224003.png
Views:	182
Size:	2.23 MB
ID:	105002

          Comment


          • #35
            That is much better Robert but it does take time and effort. Nice work. I will definitely try that tool.

            Comment


            • #36
              Thanks, Stan. DaVinci Resolve can do it too, possibly with better results. I just like Kdenlive as it's open source and more like Adobe Premiere which is what I used for many years.

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by Nantawat Kittiwarakul View Post
                You know what? The primitive halogen lamp is literally my "secret sauce" when scanning super8 films, especially negative stock.

                I bough my 3x pack of 12v 50w halogen lamp for just $3 (so $1 each) try finding any LED with 95 CRI at this price.

                In the end I just heck with that and stick with my $3 solution, and let them keep fumbling around with color grading up until today...
                If you don't mind my asking, which 12v 50w halogens did you buy? Any links?

                Comment


                • #38
                  Simply put - the most typical halogen lamp ever. I'm dead certain that you can find this right in the hardware shop nearest to you.

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	th-11134207-7r98p-lqx2ahkz9apa59.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	165.7 KB
ID:	105171

                  A slight misunderstood - it is in fact 20w lamp not 50w, as it's already almost overkill (too bright!) in this application. In fact I had to slightly underrun this at only 9v to get proper brightness level. The actual color temp doesn't matter much as long as it's still within the white blance range of camera used.

                  I'm very pleased with the result, and will probably stick to this solution for current & any foreseeable setup in the future.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by Nantawat Kittiwarakul View Post
                    Simply put - the most typical halogen lamp ever. I'm dead certain that you can find this right in the hardware shop nearest to you.

                    A slight misunderstood - it is in fact 20w lamp not 50w, as it's already almost overkill (too bright!) in this application. In fact I had to slightly underrun this at only 9v to get proper brightness level. The actual color temp doesn't matter much as long as it's still within the white blance range of camera used.

                    I'm very pleased with the result, and will probably stick to this solution for current & any foreseeable setup in the future.
                    Did you have to put a diffuser in front of the lamp? If so, what did you use? I've seen people cut a ping-pong ball in half and use that as a diffuser...

                    I'm assuming I could use something like this to tweak the brightness of the lamp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P6CMRC9...fed_asin_title

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Nantawat Kittiwarakul, the pins on the "standard" downlights are narrower than projector globes and won't fit in either of my projectors. Are you using a downlight connector?

                      Shane Graber, I'm using one of the attached to control the output of my LED.

                      As for a diffuser, I'm using the diffuser out of one of these downlights (the top unscrews so you can pull out the diffuser; I had to sand mine down a bit to fit).


                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by Kim Trampus View Post
                        I really recommend getting a 50mm raspberry pi lens. I started with the 16mm lens but was not happy with the barrel distortion on the edges of the frame.
                        If you purchase the Raspberry Pi Lens you have to remove all the outer shell to make it fit in the cavity. Stan Jelavic was kind enough to print me a custom Sankyo mount for the 50mm. This setup works great with my Panasonic HDC-SD9 3 CCD hd camera.

                        https://www.seeedstudio.com/8MP-50mm...ra-p-4624.html
                        Kim Trampus, Kim, could you advise the diameter of the barrel when the outer shell has been removed? I'm thinking of one of these for my Eumig. The stock lens is 32mm in diameter. Thanks!

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Fred Hess View Post

                          2nd question is what software are you using to capture and edit? I used Virtual Dub (lossless) for this test, but I'm hoping to find a program that has lossless capture, scene detection, ability to include multiple reels in 1 video, some basic transitions and ability to add music under the video. I've been using good ol' Pinnacle Systems 12, but it won't import the .avi files that Virtual Dub produces and won't capture lossless. I've read about OBS Studio, which might be what I'm looking for, but as always, I need other opinions and recommendations...please!
                          OBS requires a bit of a fiddle to capture lossless and even then, it glitches.

                          Re VDub and Pinnacle, try installing and captuirng in UTVideo (use the ULY2 setting/YUV422 BT601) or Lagarith. They are (or will be when you install them) Windows system codecs and will show up in VDub for capturing. Hopefully Pinnacle will also use them to open your files.

                          Re flicker, I'm in PAL land so the camcorder shutter speed options may be different but basically, I put my camcorder shutter speed on to 1/50th of a second and with my three-blade Eumig, I need to lower the motor speed just a touch to get zero flicker, at 16.67 fps. I assume the 16.67 comes from being 1/3 of 50. I therefore hypothesise that if you have your camcorder shutter set to 3x the film speed, you'll be flicker-free. I used to use a voltage controller to lower the projector speed a bit but now I have tweaked my Eumig, as per this thread. Then you can do the deepdive re the dupes and blends!

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by Shane Graber View Post

                            Did you have to put a diffuser in front of the lamp? If so, what did you use? I've seen people cut a ping-pong ball in half and use that as a diffuser...

                            I'm assuming I could use something like this to tweak the brightness of the lamp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P6CMRC9...fed_asin_title
                            Yes you definitely need a diffuser for even light. The best option would be an opaque white acrylic sheet - 1 mm thick should do the trick. Getting the right distance is also important in order to attain most diffused light.

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Originally posted by Alwyn Adkins View Post
                              Nantawat Kittiwarakul, the pins on the "standard" downlights are narrower than projector globes and won't fit in either of my projectors. Are you using a downlight connector?
                              If I'm not mistaken EFP projection lamp uses g6.35 socket, while ordinary decorating light like this works on g5.3 type. So yes you need to do some modification.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X