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Standard 8mm projector to Canon EOS 5D video capture
Andrew - Many thanks for the LED information. I've seen many ways of fixing a lens between gate and camera, one even used a laboratory stand and clamp, so don't be too worried about this, just get the lens the right way round for maximum advantage and, if it's a light leaky connection, pop a dark cloth over the gaps, like James Miller.
I've opened a fresh thread for some feedback on frame by frame transfers.
Marcel Friedman Did you look at the 3 example setups I posted? One is frame-by-frame and the other two realtime captures. Instead of the 16mm lens I have also used a Raynox Super Macro Conversion Lens on my Canon Camcorder and removed the projector lens completely. The results with the macro lens are equally good in both frame-by-frame and realtime transfer setups.
FRAME-BY-FRAME CAPTURE - DIRECT TO GATE (MACRO LENS)
REALTIME CAPTURE - MIRROR & GROUND GLASS
This is one of my early-on (9 years ago) realtime captures that I applied VideoFred's AviSynth scripts. I can see now it could use some more color correction...but over all it is a very clean and sharp transfer. I used a Sankyo 1000 and the mirror and ground glass setup in this transfer.
I prefer the quality and sharpness you can get with frame-by-frame...but with good post processing you can achieve very adequate results with realtime captures.
Last edited by Janice Glesser; April 03, 2020, 01:54 AM.
Janice - Well, I had a good look round here and saw several of your previous posts before daring to post anything myself. Of your present posts, the baseball game looks a splendid transfer but, being oldish film, is difficult to evaluate. I particularly liked the look of the lively "A Camping We Will Go" (and the music!), which certainly looks as if it started life on film, and the table tennis piece was a revelation for me as to what can be achieved with ground glass and post production.
Am I right in thinking you were responding to my post under the "Frame by frame vs. real time video capture for 8mm telecine" thread I started? It struck me it might be more useful to the community, since the discussion was tending to move away from the subject heading here, to have a new heading. Have you seen the video examples there and what's your opinion of the arguments? I hear what you say about sharpness of the frame by frame method, but look at some of those real time captures - they don't look to my eyes to be capable of being sharper.
If you reply, would you think it presumptuous of me to ask you to do so on the other thread, incorporating this text and some of your previous post for the sake of continuity? "8mm projector to Canon EOS 5D" doesn't seem to be a very likely way for future readers to access the way the present discussion is developing.
Marcel Friedman I think it would be easier to have the Admin change the title of this thread to include Frame-by-Frame vs. Realtime and delete the new thread. There is too much information in this thread and the potential to branch out. This is another example for the need to remove the editing time limitation on the forum.
Yup, I'm up for that, Janice! Sounds the most sensible suggestion. Could you please do the necessary, since I'm a newbie at forums generally? Many thanks, and I'll look forward too to your opinions when that posting has made its way over here.
The direct film capture method using either a macro lens on the camcorder and shooting off the film gate, or the special 16mm lens Janice mentions works well if you have the right camcorder. I have a Sankyo Dualux 1000 that I replaced the old CXR/CXL lamp with a MR16 lamp fixture that will accept a variety of different LED or halogen lamps. I also installed a light dimmer switch that helps adjust the light level while projecting. Finally, after MUCH experimentation (and cost), I made up several diffuser elements that fit between the lamp and film gate to better diffuse the light being projected.
Here's a video of the projector functions and samples being projected onto a computer monitor.
I have several Sankyo Dualux 2000H units as well as two Bell & Howell 456A projectors that I will be doing similar mods to in the near future as well as several 16mm projectors. Fortunately, I'm retired so I have plenty of time on my hands to experiment with these projectors - definitely not something I'd recommend unless you have a lot of time.
The common elements among these 8mm projectors are: (1) handles both Super 8mm and regular 8mm film, (2) have variable speed control and (3) have (or can be modified with) a lamp holder that will accept a variety of LED or halogen low-wattage bulbs.
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