Originally posted by Stan Jelavic
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Arducam Wolverine
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Originally posted by Brian Fretwell View PostYou wold have to change the guides from 1/4in to 8mm and speed/pitch adjust as they run at 3 3/4 ips and 18fps is nearer 3 ips IIRC.
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Originally posted by Jack Ricotta View Post
Much appreciated! I have an old Canon that should work with Magic Lantern, but it doesn't do video. Therefore I was looking at a reversing ring setup to maybe Frankenstein a trigger mechanism to get frame by frame, and then pull sound separately. These links all look pretty helpful!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uAQ...ew?usp=sharing
Also use the ML mod.
The trigger is a bit fiddly to do. Some type of a switch close to the cam.
Here is what I will try. Use a stepper and cheap stepper controller that emulates the film transport i.e. pulls the film quickly and then stops and repeats that continuously. Then record the video and use the avisynth removeDups.avs script to clean up the video. I have been using this script and it does an excellent job at removing unwanted frames. Just a thought...
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Originally posted by Stan Jelavic View PostThat might work. I used the reverse ring with my Mark2 and homemade scanner.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uAQ...ew?usp=sharing
Also use the ML mod.
The trigger is a bit fiddly to do. Some type of a switch close to the cam.
Here is what I will try. Use a stepper and cheap stepper controller that emulates the film transport i.e. pulls the film quickly and then stops and repeats that continuously. Then record the video and use the avisynth removeDups.avs script to clean up the video. I have been using this script and it does an excellent job at removing unwanted frames. Just a thought...
im in a thread at audiosciencereview trying to figure out if I can use a reel to reel deck to pull the magnetic audio…. Interestingly enough, we sorta honed in on salvaging an old head from a projector and wiring it to a mic preamp/pickup, and using the same stepper drive mechanism to eliminate wow/flutter.
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Originally posted by Stan Jelavic View PostThat might work. I used the reverse ring with my Mark2 and homemade scanner.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uAQ...ew?usp=sharing
Also use the ML mod.
The trigger is a bit fiddly to do. Some type of a switch close to the cam.
Here is what I will try. Use a stepper and cheap stepper controller that emulates the film transport i.e. pulls the film quickly and then stops and repeats that continuously. Then record the video and use the avisynth removeDups.avs script to clean up the video. I have been using this script and it does an excellent job at removing unwanted frames. Just a thought...
- Likes 1
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Originally posted by Stan Jelavic View Post
I don't think I explained this very well. The idea is to run the stepper in slow mode and stop briefly at the end of each revolution or each approximate cam revolution and trigger the camera and repeat this process. What you get will be a bunch of frames some black frames. I have the software to remove the blacks and can share it with you. It also may be possible to run the stepper without stopping and run the camera in time lapse mode. Then you would need the dups removal sw and possibly black frame removal sw. The sw is free and it is pretty fast so it does not take much time to post. This way you do not need the trigger system.
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Here is one of my projects with the T3i and Magic Lantern.
https://github.com/vintagefilmograph..._video_capture
Here is the final video
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KW3...ew?usp=sharing
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Ok... been digging in a lot to motor control... i'm deep in the rabbit hole now, lol.
I think a stepper motor is out. since it moves in steps, there will be micro start/stops capturing the audio.
However, using an Arduino to control hobby servo motors is pretty easy. they make 360 rotation models that are extremely stable in speed. I'm toying with building a drive train including a flywheel to pull the film across a salvaged sound head from a super 8 projector.
But that got me thinking that I could probably salvage an old Reel to Reel, hack the crap out of it, wire in the sound head to a mic pre-amp, and save some work. I'll probably try that first. hopefully I can figure out how to read the playback rpm or speed live and record it to see how stable the output is.
for posterity (and so i can find it later, lol)
https://www.makerguides.com/servo-arduino-tutorial/
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