Digital Camera Recommendation for DIY Telecine?

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

In fact it is only after finishing the alignment, I then would activate AF for the first frame. Once confirmed that the first image is really sharp (& no other issues found) I then switch back to MF mode, and start the scanning session.

If all goes well the focus setting should remain fixed throughout, and you'll get all images sharply focused as well.

[Shane Graber]

In fact it is only after finishing the alignment, I then would activate AF for the first frame. Once confirmed that the first image is really sharp (& no other issues found) I then switch back to MF mode, and start the scanning session.

Thanks! Now I just need to find a Nikkor f-mount lens to micro-4/3 Lumix G5 converter. Will I be OK using a less expensive one where I have to do everything manually, or should I find one that allows for autofocus, electronic aperture control, etc.?

[Steve Lunt]

I currently have a Winait convertor with the original mods by Stan

However I now have the following

Canon M6 MKII and
Canon EF-M 28mm f3.5 Macro Lens

Which I have been using to scan 35mm 110 negatives in on a usb light board

What Cine projector would be reasonable to be able to use the Canon to re-scan in my Super 8 films , in ways similar to on this thread

I have the follwing Cine projectors , just not sure they are up to it

Eumig S903
Bauer T1 Super with Vario 1:1.3/18-30mm lens
Bell & Howell 1623x with 20mm-32mm lens 1:1.5



Thanks

Steve

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

Does your Canon have electronic shutter mode, and wired shutter release socket? This is going to be the deal maker/breaker answer.

[Steve Lunt]

Does your Canon have electronic shutter mode, and wired shutter release socket? This is going to be the deal maker/breaker answer.

According to the specs it has electronic shutter supporting speeds of up to 1/16000 sec and 30fps RAW burst

and it has both wired and wireless shutter release (and PC controlled too apparently)

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

Great! That sounds like a good candidate then.

The rest would be modifying the projector transport, making the shutter trigger system, solving the optical issue, etc.

Still a long way to go, but at least you now have a good start.

[Steve Lunt]

Great! That sounds like a good candidate then.

The rest would be modifying the projector transport, making the shutter trigger system, solving the optical issue, etc.

Still a long way to go, but at least you now have a good start.

Thanks, is there anywhere that has the info I need and a good candidate projector ?

Or is there the winait I can butcher (already got the Stan board)

[Stan Jelavic]

Hi Steve. If you want to butcher your Winait you could make a cut in the front panel and housing to gain access to the gate with the DSLR. Remove the imagingsource camera and mount the unit horizontally on a wood board. The DSLR can bee mounted onto the same board with a slider. Align the camera and the gate. My board will drive the stepper and provide the led power. It also provides the camera trigger. Can help you getting that running. I have done several similar mods that worked very well.
BTW - you can mount the unit without the back cover.

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

IMHO the simplest & most practical approach would be this.

https://youtu.be/yStZmqdWDLA?si=0pk4U_Kdqvs86cKK

Mine is a bit different (different camera & projector used) but essentially the same in principle. Had been using it for a few years - never had any issue whatsoever.

[Stan Jelavic]

Did a similar project
https://github.com/vintagefilmograph..._s400_telecine
The optical setup was very similar to the above project that Nantawat mentioned but in my case I went with the higher scan speed. yes it was not hard to put it together at all and it is quite simple to add the trigger.
This approach does not work with the Sankyo Delux 1000 because the Venus macro cannot get close enough to the gate. So for that project I use the "magnifying glass" approach. Use the old 100mm macro with the camera and the 50 mm Seeed lens as a magnifier. Tested it with the T3i for now but plan to use my friend's mirrorless Fuji in the end.
The results came out very good. The cropped resolution is close to 3500 x 3000 pixels.
Perhaps some softness in the corners at full resolution but passes my test.
It is a but more work tot put together but not bad at all.

[Stan Jelavic]

Noticed that my camera was not perfectly aligned causing soft corners on one side. The new uploaded SMPTE test image above is better.

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

That's almost identical to my tried & trust setup, which had been in constant use for a couple of years without issues. So this will DEFINITELY work, period.

Regarding the optical issue, maybe since I'm using cropped-sensor camera (Panny GH5), at low capture resolution ("only"5 megapixels🙃), and with "cropped mode" on thus using only center portion of the sensor. With all of these combined when down-resed to 1080p output that resulted in brutally sharp image to all corners.

This is the case where larger sensor is in fact causing more cons than pros. Therefore I'd stick to this cropped-sensor camera for now, and for years to come.

[Stan Jelavic]

Cropped mode can easily be done with this setup with the zoom lens used here. Just reduce the image size by backing the camera off and readjusting the zoom. You get lower resolution but still well within the grain of the film. Another way is to just crank up the aperture one step and voila. I tried the reverse mount with my 17-40mm zoom lens and got very good results. A bit lower resolution but very sharp. So that is another way to go. Pick a good dquality wide angle lens that covers the 30-40mm range, reverse mount it and that should do it. You will have to preset the lens aperture to around 11 by setting it to 11 when normally mounted, locking the aperture and then removing it.

[Steve Lunt]

Hi Steve. If you want to butcher your Winait you could make a cut in the front panel and housing to gain access to the gate with the DSLR. Remove the imagingsource camera and mount the unit horizontally on a wood board. The DSLR can bee mounted onto the same board with a slider. Align the camera and the gate. My board will drive the stepper and provide the led power. It also provides the camera trigger. Can help you getting that running. I have done several similar mods that worked very well.
BTW - you can mount the unit without the back cover.

Hi Stan apologies for the delay, which is the better option ? using the DSLR on the Wingate or getting a projector and butchering it as above ?

I have a 3d Printer also

I have your board so the winait is already modified

[Stan Jelavic]

Hi Steve,
I think either way would work. With the Winait you may be able to get closer to the gate a use a single macro lens possibly or even rig up a mount with two lenses if a single lens cannot reach. So the only mod is the front plate cut mod and mounting on a board which you need in any case. The motor mod and the trigger is already there. That is my thinking anyways.