Camera Recommendations for Scanning

[Dan Runck]

Hello! I am looking for some advice. About a year ago, I finished a Super8 scanner project with the help of this video (https://youtu.be/yStZmqdWDLA?si=NXuBl2MVI7oHQF3o ). However, the main problems I ran into which made it not viable was mostly limited by my camera (a Canon T3i). Being that is could only take pictures at a very slow rate and had an extremely shallow depth of field. I am looking to revive this project, but use a different camera that will compensate for these issues. I’m thinking maybe one from The Image Source (or even something similar to a Single Board Computer camera, like the Raspberry Pi cameras). As I was inspired by this video (https://youtu.be/glStpZDr8vo?si=W814QtESCrFsjMKf ), and I have heard of them before. Note: Unlike this video, I am not looking to do a Wolverine mod. Just use a new camera with my existing set-up. But I don’t know what camera to use. Which is what I need help with. I have done some looking, but it's a bit overwhelming and taking me a long time to find an answer on my own. I’m looking for a couple things out of a camera:

1. A forgiving depth-of-field range.
2. 4K resolution before crop (if possible).
3. Being able to take no less than 2 stills per second. More would be welcome.
4. Preferably, being able to set up/connect an external shutter. As I already have one on my current rig.

Let me know if you have any questions. Thank you!

[Stan Jelavic]

Hi Dan, The second video is from Mike Spice and he used the hardware that I provided. That is just FYI just in case you are not aware of that. I also did the project from the first video and yes it is slow.
The camera that I provide with the Hawkeye mod (2nd video) is a lower rez camera
https://www.theimagingsource.com/en-.../dfm72buc02ml/
and a higher rez
https://www.theimagingsource.com/en-.../dfm37ux226ml/
The ux226 has higher resolution and somewhat better colors but it is slower than the BUC02
Actually I could not get much more than 2FPS out of the BUC02 and even less with the UX226
A part if the problem is that the images get sent to the PC over USB and then the PC has to store them locally.

So with you looking at 4K and fast scan I suggest you check the 4K microscope cams.
Something like this:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805494551328.html
Perhaps something cheaper.
It is not that hard to come up with the usb mouse trigger which can go straight to the camera and stores the images locally.
For C type mount I was pretty happy with this lens that I used with the RPI telecine projects
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088H936PV?psc=1
You may need some C mount 5mm spacers in order to get the lens to focus and an adapter to able to mount the lens into your projector lens mount.

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

Since it's more or less the same question as in this thread, therefore my answer is still more or less the same.😉

https://8mmforum.film-tech.com/vbb/f...r-diy-telecine





I've been successfully using m4/3 camera for a few years starting from Panasonic G7, and currently settled down on GH5 with some manual zoom lens. I probably had run at least 300-400 50ft Super8 through this setup WITHOUT any issue. It simply WORKS every time, always.😄 A m4/3 camera would have an advantage in this case due to its "small" sensor size, causing less optical hassle as less magnification needed.

[Stan Jelavic]

My only concern with the magnifier lens approach (virtual image) is the optical resolution based on my tests.
I generally prefer to have a single quality lens between the camera and the film, no custom setups.
But that is me...

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

I can only say that since all optical issues had been sorted out. Therefore ANY lens with proper focal length can be used with the setup, even this mediocre zoom kit lens from mid 90's.


Although made for Nikon AF cameras, it is used as fully manual lens in this setup. Notice a masking tape preventing the focusing ring from any possible "drifting".😆


The resulted image, while not 100% perfect, but at 5.1 megapixels resolution acquisition this is more than good enough. And at 1080p / 1440p delivery resolution this is almost overkill.

So yes there are options to achieve the goal, this would remain to be my go-to approach for the time being.

[Dan Runck]

Thank you! You guys have given me a good head start.

[Shane Graber]

I can only say that since all optical issues had been sorted out. Therefore ANY lens with proper focal length can be used with the setup, even this mediocre zoom kit lens from mid 90's.

Nantawat: Just out of curiosity, how do you handle XY positioning of the camera and subsequent locking it in solid so vibrations don't affect it (i.e., lose focus)? Z is essentially using nuts and threaded rod or long machine screws to hold the camera platform in place and adjusting the pitch/roll of the camera relative to the frame being scanned. What about finely moving the camera in X and Y in/out and left/right? I'm going to be using a fixed lens setup on mine: Lumix G5 plus a microscope objective lens (https://www.printables.com/model/143...ography-with-s).

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

Probably the most primitive method ever: I'm using a thick heavy steel plate with 3 - point support, and that's all! The total weight with camera is about 4.2kg, enough to dampen any vibration when running.

Another benefit of using this 2-lens setup is that it is now much less sensitive to any shock/vibrations. Alignment is also much easier as well.

[Shane Graber]

Probably the most primitive method ever: I'm using a thick heavy steel plate with 3 - point support, and that's all! The total weight with camera is about 4.2kg, enough to dampen any vibration when running.

Another benefit of using this 2-lens setup is that it is now much less sensitive to any shock/vibrations. Alignment is also much easier as well.

I'm glad to see someone finally understands that 3 points defines a plane! A lot of these platforms appear to use bolts / threaded rod on all four corners of the camera mount and it makes zero sense to me. So is that a Nikkor 35-70mm lens that you're using? And what is that bracket that you have holding your camera down to the platform?

[Nantawat Kittiwarakul]

Exactly!
While adjusting this 3 point support is moderately tedious/time consuming - but still possible. But adjusting 4 point support would be quite a nightmare.😱 My engineering background is now proved to be useful, finally!😆

I've found out on my camera that at certain aspect ratio & resolution setting, and with "crop mode" on (therefore 1:1 sensor readout from the center section). When using 50mm lens on the projector side (as a magnifier, so to speak) the proper focal length on the camera side would be around 50-70mm give or take. So ANY zoom lens around this range would/should work fine in this case.

The bracket is the camera cage that come bundled with when I bought it 2nd hand, from a local seller. At first I didn't see any use of it (and almost throw it away) until when trying to mount the camera onto this steel base plate with the hole previously drilled for other camera, so that won't line up with the camera's thread mount. Then this camera cage come to the rescue - now I can have it mounted to the proper position without having to drill any additional hole. Glad that the seller did include this very useful accessory!