posted July 17, 2015 12:37 AM                   

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It involves loosening the 2 hub grub screws with an allen key tool and carefully sliding forward the hub till the claw protrudes about 1mm past the aperture plate when it is in the maximum out position. That should be enough to ensure good penetration into the film.
When you think you have got it right, slowly hand rotate the shuttershaft to observe the claw retreating and ensure it completely retreats from the film before it moves up for another frame grab. It must be seen to go below the aperture plate, where its safe to move up for another grab at the next waiting film frame.

Test with a piece of old film when confident, by hand turning it over. Observe the location of the claw tip within the film sprocket hole, especially with Super 8 film which has a very small sprocket hole. It must be exactly central in the hole or it may cause an unsteady picture if it touches the sides. There is an adjustment for sideways claw-tip relocation if needed. Often it means moving the side film guides a tiny bit.

On the Sankyo 1000, I usually remove the lens holder and lens to provide better visibility of the action going on at the claw tip.

Before you make any adjustment changes, always look at the claw finger to see if a fluff ball has formed on the tip. This buildup of hairs and fluff happens to all projectors and will eventually prevent the claw finger from penetrating the film properly. Then the film jumping begins. So inspect and clean the claw tip and gate rails before making any changes to the claw settings.

Good luck with the adjustment if its required. Take it nice and slow. Use good lighting and magnifying goggles. Be prepared for a number of attempts to get it optimal. Let us know how you go.

dogtor frankarnstein

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