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Author Topic: Elmo ST-800 Belt Replacement & Film Feed Problem
Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011


 - posted February 03, 2012 09:23 PM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Here's another video...if I keep going I might have a full-length feature :-)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYA7lPReroI&feature=plcp&context=C3cc c942UDOEgsToPDskLKWKOil6ESydbkRb4GHX7n

This is a combined view of the front and the back while turning the control knob. Spoiler Alert: No action on the chute side, however the linkage does move slightly (as seen better in the previous videos).

Frank and Steve on the cam end of the linkage... what does it look like? Is there anything there that would prevent the linkage from moving further left?

...AND... here is a summary video of the progress (yes we are making progress). Please watch this and let me know your next step suggestions.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V0Ub4aznyz8&feature=youtu.be

[ February 04, 2012, 12:27 AM: Message edited by: Janice Glesser ]

--------------------
Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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frank arnstein
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 534
From: Gold Coast. Australia
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 - posted February 04, 2012 01:12 AM      Profile for frank arnstein   Author's Homepage   Email frank arnstein   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Janice

I have looked at all 4 the videos again before finally coming to a decision on this very interesting case of Elmo-itis. They have helped a lot in tryng to remote-diagnose this from the other side of the world.

To sum up some facts....
The Chute and Sound head pads are free to move as seen by your hand pushing them open. So they aren't stuck or tight.

I have seen both control shafts being moved by the selector cam and although the rear hidden shaft appears to move only a little, I think there is enough throw available if you eliminate some unwanted slack.

It seems the easiest way to do this is to remove the pivoting rod that lives behind the plastic gears you removed, the one held there by a phillips screw. Carefully bend the tang end that sits against the plastic chute and pushes it up. Just a tiny bit is all you may need. Then refit and test it using the control knob and see if the chute now is pushed open more when the tang end moves against it.
If it does then open and shut the chute and sound head pad, reassemble all parts and run threading tests then report back to the forum with results.

We will await this next report of yours with some anxiety and trepidation, but we have confidence in your abilities with a screwdriver and pliers. We also admire the courage you have shown in this difficult case & hope its soon resolved.

dogtor frankarnstein

[Roll Eyes]

[ February 05, 2012, 01:54 AM: Message edited by: frank arnstein ]

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At Projector Heaven the Focus is always on Detail.

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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

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From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
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 - posted February 04, 2012 02:42 PM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Frank...There were 5 videos...I hope you watched the last one. There were two videos in my last post [Smile]

Here is feedback on your bending the tang end of the pivoting rod suggestion. It did help...but unfortunately there was no happy medium to any amount of bending that would open the chute, lift the sound head, and return them to the down position. This is because if I bend the tang enough (which was alot) to raise the chute and the sound heads then they won't lower when the control knob is set to lamp. If I bend it less to get the chute to lower...it raised the chute slightly...but not enough to raise the sound heads. GRRRRRRRRH! [Mad] If the chute doesn't open fairly high then the film doesn't feed down through the guide...but rather runs over it. That linkage just needs to move over more (like I demonstrated in my last video) that would solve the problem.

--------------------
Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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Paul Browning
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 - posted February 04, 2012 08:23 PM      Profile for Paul Browning   Email Paul Browning   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Janice, i've looked at your video footage and tried to reproduce what your getting with my st800.I have it stripped to about the same as your's.Ok, first off the lever in video 2 and the part mating with it ( the bit your trying to move) are in the vertical position when the function switch is at rest,so in my opinion its in the right place,look at at this now does it look like its in the 12 o'clock position in your video it does to me, secondly both of these mechanism's move backward and not forward ,that is, when function switch is in the 'F' position it move's only a fraction ( possibly 10 thousanth's of an inch)in a backward direction,then when switch is now moved to lamp position it move's backward almost in line with the square casting jutting out from above.Now when the function switch is moved in the reverse position both the lever and the part your trying to move do not move at all.Ok, if you go to the other side of the machine where the sound head is and the chute's that guide the film ,do this, tare a small strip of news paper about the width of your little finger and about as long and carefully place it between the sound head and the presure pad, its directly above the soundhead on the bit you showed in an earlier video moving in and out with your thumb,with the function switch in the 12 o'clock position this paper should just slide in ans out with no dragging felt on the paper.If you now move the function switch to 'F' and leaving the paper between the sound head and presure pad you should feel a tiny bit of dragging where both the soundhead and presure pad are actually gripping the paper.Now reading one your uploads earlier you seem to have the impression ( correct me if i'm wrong here)that the soundhead move's, well i'm 100% certain it does not ,its fixed and only the presure pad mechanism's that sits directly above it move's down to it keeping the correct pressure on the magnetic sound stripe at all time's.All this info janice is gleaned from my st800 that works correctly i'm no expert on projector's but i am an engineer and i'll do my best to help you or anyone else on this forum regardless if i can.

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Pasquale DAlessio
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 - posted February 05, 2012 01:06 AM      Profile for Pasquale DAlessio   Email Pasquale DAlessio   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
OK MY turn. ON The 2 arms that meet but do no push enough ...why not get a small sick on pad (used fo feet) and apply it to one of the "l" shaped ends? This would make it a little longer and may push it just enough to get it to engage.

[ February 05, 2012, 09:15 AM: Message edited by: Pasquale DAlessio ]

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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

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From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
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 - posted February 05, 2012 01:57 AM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Pat, I think you and Frank are in agreement with me that something needs to push that pivot rod further to push up the chute to the proper height for the film to feed. The linkage appears to be working correctly with the control switch,it's just not moving far enough. However...If I understand Paul correctly, he's saying that the linkage on his machine only moves a small amount too...but some how it's opening the shoot enough to let the film threw. I don't get it. [Confused]

As far as adding something to the pivot rod...I found out when bending the upper tang on the rod that if you get it to push up the chute to the proper distance then when the control switch is set to LAMP it doesn't close down enough. The same thing would apply to adding something to the linkage side. I'm almost wishing I hadn't bent it now. I would rather get to the root of the problem.

--------------------
Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

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From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
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 - posted February 05, 2012 02:03 AM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Paul....Thanks for jumping in on what Frank has termed "Elmo-itis" with my ST-800 [Smile] I have to say at this point I'm overwhelmed.

If you look at Steve Klare's photo of the front chute section (it's located on page 1...dated Jan 30 8:06am)...the chute is raised quite high so that the sound heads and the feed rollers are raised also. I'm guessing this was in the OFF position. If the sound heads are touching or even close then the film will not feed into the chute. When I first tested the machine the film would not thread. However when I manually lifted the chute...the film loaded just fine and when I switched the control knob to Lamp the chute lower the picture and the sound played great.

The only way I can see for the chute to open that much is for the linkage to push the pivoting rod over more. I'm not an engineer and I'm just using layman's logic.

Would you mind taking a couple of pictures of the front of your ST-800... One with the Control dial set at F ...and 2nd photo with the Control set to LAMP. This way I'll have a visual comparison. It is my goal to make my machine match those pictures. I just need to make it do automatically what I can do manually.

--------------------
Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
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frank arnstein
Jedi Master Film Handler

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From: Gold Coast. Australia
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 - posted February 05, 2012 04:17 AM      Profile for frank arnstein   Author's Homepage   Email frank arnstein   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Janice,

Re..."Pat, I think you and Frank are in agreement with me that something needs to push that pivot rod further to push up the chute to the proper height for the film to feed."

This statement is not really correct because I am in full agreement with Paul who has said the selector shaft needs to move back and not in the direction you were pushing it with the screwdriver. That is the wrong direction. You want the chute and sound head pads and the roller that drives the flywheel to fully close when switched to forward/lamp/sound, so it must go in the other direction.

It is in the off position that there should be maximum gap at the sound head. When you go to F, the gap will close a tiny, weeny bit but still be open. Then finally all gaps fully closed when switched to forward/lamp/sound.

When good quality film is being threaded it will emerge from the film gate and go down, not like Janices picture of the white leader which is curling to the right and will miss the chute. Its a bit like shooting a bent arrow. I did say earlier to check for "no curl in the leader" and get rid of the white leader if it wont go straight down.

There are 2 devices to direct the film into the sound head gap. One is the long "angular down ramp" which starts as soon as the film comes out of the gate and passes over the top of the black plastic loop former rod. The film will turn outwards to follow the ramp down towards the sound head pickups. Halfway down the ramp it becomes trapped by a plastic wedge above it that wont allow it to move upwards and helps aim it straight at the sound head gap. Even if there is a small gap of less than 1mm at the sound head/pads the film will go through the gap OK if its straight and flat film. Same for the flywheel roller. Minimal gap needed. There is no need to lift the chute up high when hand testing it because it doesn't go that high when in operation. It has to only go high enough to lift the pressure pads off the sound head.

So to sum up, I feel there may not have been anything wrong at all with the machine. The fault appears to have been the film curling excessively. Elmos don't like curly leaders at all.

Janice, try to set the tang back to where it was, it should be horizontal and level and then try threading again with straight film.

Do not switch the selector knob to lamp/sound/on until the film has fully connected onto the lower sprocket or it will get jammed when the sound head and flywheel rollers close their gaps. It needs the lower sprocket to drag the film through the closed rollers or they will stop the film there and a bunch up will occur.

Paul, you were quite right about the terminology error. When we were talking about the sound head moving, we were really meaning the sound head pressure pads. Of course the sound head wont move. The pressure pads move against it.

We will see what you report next Janice, and thanks to Pauls astute observation along with Steves earlier input, as well as Igors great idea, this is now closer to resolution.

dogtor frankarnstein


[Roll Eyes] [Embarrassed]

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At Projector Heaven the Focus is always on Detail.

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[o:/o]<|=- dogtor@projectorheaven.com.au
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Pasquale DAlessio
Film God

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From: Bristol,RI, USA
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 - posted February 05, 2012 09:13 AM      Profile for Pasquale DAlessio   Email Pasquale DAlessio   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
It's alive!! It's alive! [Eek!] He lives! He lives! [Eek!] [Razz]

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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

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From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
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 - posted February 05, 2012 11:22 AM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi all,

I really want to thank everyone for taking all this extra time and effort in helping me out. It is greatly appreciated. I apologize for my inability to communicate well at times and to understand what you guys are saying.

It would help me to just breakdown your last post Frank before I proceed. Some things are still a bit hazy for me in regards to what is working correctly and what is not. I need some simple yes and no answers [Smile]

1. "...selector shaft needs to move back and not in the direction you were pushing it with the screwdriver. That is the wrong direction"

Ok...I was pushing with the screwdriver to try and open the chute. Obviously this was not correct or needed. So, the linkage is working properly in FORWARD (F) position...yes?

2. "You want the chute and sound head pads and the rollers that drives the flywheel to fully close when switched to forward/lamp/sound, so it must go in the other direction."

Ok...This I understand and this appears to be working properly...yes?

3. "It is in the off position that there should be maximum gap at the sound head."

Ok...This too I understand...however this is NOT happening. The chute and heads are not up in the OFF position. This I can see.

3."When you go to F, the gap will close a tiny, weeny bit but still be open. Then finally all gaps fully closed when switched to forward/lamp/sound."

Ok...I understand this, but starting from the OFF position where the heads are fully down, when put in FORWARD (F) there's no place to go.

4. "There is no need to lift the chute up high when hand testing it because it doesn't go that high when in operation. It has to only go high enough to lift the pressure pads off the sound head."

Ok...but there was no gap...I tried hand feeding the film and it would not go down the shoot. Although now I understand that the clearance doesn't have to be as much as I thought.

5. "try to set the tang back to where it was, it should be horizontal and level and then try threading again with straight film."

OK...I can do this. I hope I haven't misaligned that pivot rod. It was hard to bend just the tang without bending some of the rest. I tried straightening it out as much as possible..but it's not as straight as before [Frown]

6. " I feel there may not have been anything wrong at all with the machine. The fault appears to have been the film curling excessively. Elmos don't like curly leaders at all."

OK???? Are you saying that all I need to do is put the machine back together and it will work fine, just watch the curl? What about the chute and sound heads not raising up in the OFF position? This is still not right or am I missing something?

 -

I really can't proceed until I have an answer about the chute's position when OFF. If the linkage is working properly then is it the pivoting rod that is not correct? Perhaps there is something wrong with it? Could you please address this specifically...and I wish I had a picture of how the pivoting rod looks in the correct OFF position.

Thanks guys...I believe we're almost there [Smile]

ADDED NOTE: I'm taking today off from the Elmo...It's Super Bowl Sunday and I need a break :-)

--------------------
Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
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 - posted February 06, 2012 03:32 AM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
UPDATE.....HOLD THE PRESSES....HOUSTON WE HAVE LEFT OFF....well some of the time :-)

You can ignore answering the questions I asked...at least for now.I went ahead and put Elmo back together again. Looks like I didn't brake anything and no left-over parts [Smile] I loaded some leaderless film and it did go through the sound heads...down the chute just pass the rollers and then stopped and then the film just backed-up and ran over the chute. I checked and found there was a slight burn spot on the film so I trimmed it at that point and tried loading it again. This time is fed properly. I tried another reel and it loaded ok too...but the second time I ran each reel they hung up...stopping just after going through the rollers. You said Elmo's were fussy...but this is a little too fussy.

--------------------
Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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frank arnstein
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 534
From: Gold Coast. Australia
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted February 06, 2012 08:11 AM      Profile for frank arnstein   Author's Homepage   Email frank arnstein   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Janice

Looks like you are back on track so thats good to see.
Here are a few things to check for with the settings of the air gap. The main one to watch is the sound head/pressure-pads gap.

With the selector set to off, the air gap between the surface of the sound head and the tip of the spring loaded pressure pad will be roughly a half of 1mm. When you turn to F, the gap should reduce to little more than the thickness of a piece of film. At that stage the gap at the flywheel rollers will still be about 1 mm. During threading this is a critical time when film negotiates its way past many obstacles.

Thats why we don't turn the selector knob to Lamp/Sound On until at least the film tip is seen to have emerged from the exit shute on its way to the take up reel. Then we know that the lower sprocket is doing its job and will drag film through the seated flywheel rollers when they close, preventing a film bunch-up occurring there at the rollers.

When you see the film emerge or best to wait till its attatched to the take up reel and its then safe to turn the selector to Sound/Lamp On. Both air gaps will then close fully. I.E. The spring loaded sound head pads will compress and close down on the film while the flywheel driving rollers will clamp together onto the film and try to slow it down.

So check those gaps and their timing and see if it threads film any better after they are set. The metal tang pushing the chute open may still need some slight bending if the sound head gap isn't right.

We will continue to await your reports and feel some what relieved at your recent good progress.

dogtor frankarnstein [Roll Eyes] [Wink]

--------------------
At Projector Heaven the Focus is always on Detail.

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[o:/o]<|=- dogtor@projectorheaven.com.au
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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011


 - posted February 06, 2012 06:41 PM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Frank,

I'm fishing here...but can you see any other way to adjust the height of the heads that would be more precise then bending the tang? That is such a trial and error task and bending it isn't THAT easy...not to mention having to disassemble and reassemble to test it and the further chance of bending a section that shouldn't bend. However, I really don't want to send us on another wild goose chase (Been there....Done that)...but no harm in asking [Roll Eyes] If not...I think I have it in me for one more go at the tang (btw...isn't that what the astronauts drink?)

Also, I don't have any way to accurately measure the sound head and roller gaps. Is there a tool that would make measuring a gap more accurate?

[ February 06, 2012, 09:28 PM: Message edited by: Janice Glesser ]

--------------------
Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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frank arnstein
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 534
From: Gold Coast. Australia
Registered: Jan 2005


 - posted February 06, 2012 10:01 PM      Profile for frank arnstein   Author's Homepage   Email frank arnstein   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Janice,
All of us here will continue to try to help you get this final bit right.

So check the following things and we will see what you find.....

When the Selector Knob is set to Forward/Lamp/Sound, The gap between the flywheel rollers will be fully closed. At that time, there should be about 1mm free play between the tang and the shute it lifts. Try to get that free play correct when re-straightening the bent tang.

When you think thats Ok, turn the selector knob back to F and see if there is a bit less than 1mm air gap between the 2 flywheel rollers.
At the same time, look at the gap between the sound head and its pressure pads. It should be just enough to slide a film through the gap.

If after all that, you see that the sound head gap isnt right and it needs fine resetting, do it by loosening the 2 tiny screws that hold the sound head in place. These 2 screws are on slotted holes so the tiny sound-head gap can be finely reset there by sliding it closer or away from the pressure pads then retightening.

Test by turning the selector back to Lamp/Sound On and look at the sound-head pressure pads to check that they are now fully closed and the tiny internal spring loading is fully compressed.

Those settings should make the machine thread Ok and the sound to work Ok.

So try again and we will continue to await your reports of any progress.

We don't give up easy in this forum and we keep trying even if it takes years.
Igor is a fine example of how determined we can be but don't get too close to him as he may bite if over-excited by the sight of your hands. He hasn't seen a woman for a long time and so you may need to wear gloves in any subsequent videos.

GRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Droooool. Slobber.... just listen to him...
No, No, Get back to the lab. Igor.......
What hump? You know what hump I am talking about.

dogtor frankarnstein

[Wink] [Roll Eyes]

[ February 06, 2012, 11:43 PM: Message edited by: frank arnstein ]

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At Projector Heaven the Focus is always on Detail.

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[o:/o]<|=- dogtor@projectorheaven.com.au
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Pasquale DAlessio
Film God

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From: Bristol,RI, USA
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 - posted February 07, 2012 12:06 AM      Profile for Pasquale DAlessio   Email Pasquale DAlessio   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Slurp! [Embarrassed]

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Paul Browning
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 - posted February 07, 2012 10:38 AM      Profile for Paul Browning   Email Paul Browning   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Hi Janice, i see from your recent update your not completely happy with this gap at the soundhead and feed rollers,but i agree with an earlier comment you made about wanting it right without any compromise.I have tried before to upload picture's to the site but without much success.I 'd like to see a square on picture of the lever and that sliding finger that suppose to be all the way across,i can get a picture of my st800 and compare it.I do think the last picture looked to be at an angle even on the video, it needs to be at 90degree's to the parts mating with the function switch at 12o'clock.I'm sorry you will have to dismantle it a bit to do this, and understand if you don't want to but,if your not upto takeing out the circuit board which you will need to do to get access to any mechanism behind it in order to lube it up.I have looked and you really carn't see anything with the circuit board attached it is an awkward job and fiddly.I agree with you in not wanting to bend the lever, but i also understand the help and info from the other members is with good intention.If all else fails here perhaps you can take off the lever and send it me i think i have solution that will allow me to set it up,and then return it to you so all you will need to do is to re attach to your machine and away you go with gap restored.Thanks to frank and all the other guy's for your kind comment's ,i feel sure were on the home straight now.

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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

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From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
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 - posted February 07, 2012 02:51 PM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Paul...I PM'd you and I'll take another pic of pivoting rod once I get it apart AGAIN [Smile]

--------------------
Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
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 - posted February 09, 2012 10:32 PM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I'm back with good news. After going through all of the comments from you experts, I decided to go with Pat's suggestion to add an adhesive pad to the tang on the pivoting lever and it worked. This may not be a permanent solution (the pad is a little too think)...but it will work for now.

 -

There is a small side effect occurring. In the photo below you can see the film forming a loop at the top of the chute. This doesn't seem to be doing any harm that I can see...so I can live with this.

 -

...AND of course I couldn't end this journey without a final video. SPOILER ALERT! Pat, I do show my hands.

Here's Part 6 - THE FIX
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtqgLzmOjBw&list=UUzhVuBJou11ziWdERi0ZGuQ&index=1&feature=plcp

--------------------
Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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Pasquale DAlessio
Film God

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 - posted February 10, 2012 03:34 AM      Profile for Pasquale DAlessio   Email Pasquale DAlessio   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Happy days are here again! [Big Grin]

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frank arnstein
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 534
From: Gold Coast. Australia
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 - posted February 10, 2012 05:06 AM      Profile for frank arnstein   Author's Homepage   Email frank arnstein   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
This is really good news Janice, very well done and what a great example of how persistant effort finally results in success.
The other good thing is that the strange loop you see is normal on these. It's the bottom loop and when you operate the loop restorer you will see how it gets pushed out there. Looks weird but works good.

Igor has also shown us why he gets paid the big bucks. His simple solution ended the pain that we all felt.

Thanks to all the other forum members who contributed to solving this interesting case, particularly Paul and Steve.
It is good to have this group input and support when any member is faced with a tricky technical issue regarding their movie projector.

dogtor frankarnstein [Smile]

[ February 11, 2012, 03:00 AM: Message edited by: frank arnstein ]

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Gerald Santana
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 - posted February 10, 2012 10:58 AM      Profile for Gerald Santana   Author's Homepage   Email Gerald Santana   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Congrats Jancie, another Forum miracle!

--------------------
http://lostandoutofprintfilms.blogspot.com/

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Janice Glesser
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From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
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 - posted August 13, 2012 01:03 AM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
This is an update to the fix. After a while the adhesive pad attached to the pivoting lever compressed and would not maintain the gap on the chute. I replaced the pad with a couple of washers I glued to the lever. There was some trial and error to get the proper thickness...but this should be a more permanent solution.

 -

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Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011


 - posted October 14, 2012 09:15 PM      Profile for Janice Glesser   Email Janice Glesser   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Here's a short video I made to explain the more permanent modification I made to fix the auto-feed problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v8vs7oQTw0&list=UUzhVuBJou11ziWdERi0ZGuQ&index=1&feature=plcp

[ October 15, 2012, 12:28 AM: Message edited by: Janice Glesser ]

--------------------
Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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John Romein
Junior
Posts: 19
From: Port Coquitlam, BC, Canada
Registered: Mar 2014


 - posted December 19, 2015 11:58 PM      Profile for John Romein   Author's Homepage   Email John Romein   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I just picked up the St-800 and the take up belt was very slack...so in an attempt to replace the belt I removed the screw that holds the plate below the right top most gear. The issue I have is I cannot recall if the plate (with the bend) bends up or down against the shaft? (where the red arrow is in the first photo of this blog). BTW excellent blog...should have read it first before removing the wrong part.

[ December 20, 2015, 10:35 AM: Message edited by: John Romein ]

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William Olson
Master Film Handler

Posts: 287
From: Poughkeepsie, NY USA
Registered: Jun 2010


 - posted December 20, 2015 03:59 PM      Profile for William Olson   Email William Olson   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
FYI I have an Elmo ST-800 that I bought in 1977. It still works very well. I love this machine. It's very quiet and has good sound reproduction. In fact, I made films with friends back in the day. After editing and professional soundstriping from Superior Bulk Film in Chicago, I post-synched audio on the film using this machine. It records very good audio. I hope you successfully restore this projector. You'll love it.

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