8mm Forum: Eumig 824 broken claw pin

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Topic: Eumig 824 broken claw pin

Luke Coiro
Junior
Posts: 12
From: Sydney, Australia
Registered: Dec 2008

posted November 02, 2012 03:20 AM

I recently aquired two Eumig 824 projectors that had faults with them. Films, both 8mm and Super 8 ran jittery through both machines so the previous owner gave up on them and I snapped them up cheap. Discovered the problem on both machines is the claw arm pins (the smaller pin) are missing, assumed broken off from trying to change the gates without the claw being set in the withdrawn position. Problem is trying to get a hold of some replacement claws or even just the pins to replace myself is proving difficult. I removed a claw assembly from one machine fairly easily by undoing two grub screws. Anyone know where I can get replacement claws or pins for this model?

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Vincent Zabbia
Master Film Handler

Posts: 372
From: Montrose, NY
Registered: Feb 2011

posted November 02, 2012 11:19 AM

Look up John Capazzo here on the forum. He has a broken Eumig 824 and might have the part you need. I've sent him this link also. Good Luck

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Vincent Zabbia

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Joseph Banfield
Film Handler

Posts: 93
From: FRANCE
Registered: Jun 2010

posted November 02, 2012 01:03 PM

Luke, if that is a dual 8 machine, it is normal for there to be only one pin on the claw. As far as I know, only a dedicated machine to a single format will have a two-pin claw. There should just be an empty hole with no pin at all attached. Dual 8 machines use only a one pin claw because the registration on standard 8mm and Super 8mm are not the same, therefore a two pin claw can not be used. I think your problem lies elsewhere, my friend.

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Luke Coiro
Junior
Posts: 12
From: Sydney, Australia
Registered: Dec 2008

posted November 02, 2012 03:08 PM

Joespeh, I think you have it confused. Yes this machine and my S810D both have only one pin with the other hole empty. The issue is the small needle like pin that protrudes out from the singe pin that has been snapped off. The S810D is also a dual machine and it has the needle like pin intact and works fine, except for the sound hum problem.

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Joseph Banfield
Film Handler

Posts: 93
From: FRANCE
Registered: Jun 2010

posted November 02, 2012 03:27 PM

Well, of course, if your single pin is broken you are going to have problems with the pulldown, which would explain your jittery projection. You're right I did not understand that your single pins on both machines were broken too. I suppose you will indeed need a replacement claw for both of your machines, if this is the case. These are common machines and someone will come to your rescue on this forum.

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Zechariah Sporre
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 557
From: Ladysmith, WI U.S.A.
Registered: Dec 2010

posted November 02, 2012 09:00 PM

These eumig projectors are to well built. I wish they were a little cheaper built so there were more part ones out there [Wink]

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There is a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness

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Luke Coiro
Junior
Posts: 12
From: Sydney, Australia
Registered: Dec 2008

posted November 14, 2012 08:15 AM

Well I managed to track down some second hand claw arms from John White in the UK. Got them today, changed over the claws on both machines and presto, problem solved HOWEVER, fine tuning the claw adjustment is proving a little tricky on one of the machines. At first I used the same hole locations as it was set before with the previous claw and it worked for the other machine, but not this one. Via small adjustments, I got it to run fairly smoothly but it jitters sometimes, especially in reverse. Is there a way of setting the claw arm so that it runs perfect?

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Martin Jones
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1269
From: Thetford , Norfolk,England
Registered: May 2008

posted November 14, 2012 08:47 AM

Luke,
On these machines the claw setting has not only to be right in terms of its vertical position when entering the film but also in terms of its penetration into the sprocket hole.Ensure it is correct as it can affect jitter of the picture
This penetration can be adjusted by moving the shutter disc "fore and aft" along its drive shaft, being careful not to rotate it around the shaft as you do so.
The shutter is held on the shaft by (usually)two grub screws in its brass hub. Moving the shutter forward increases the penetration and vice versa. Position the shutter so that it enters the perforations adequately, but not so far as to let the brass mount of the claw pin to touch the film at maximum penetration.
For general information, the "rotary" position of the shutter on its shaft will affect the ability of the framing control to cope with the different frame lines when changing formats.
Martin

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Retired TV Service Engineer
Ongoing interest in Telecine....

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