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Author
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Topic: OSI's mag striping service ...
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Osi Osgood
Film God
Posts: 10204
From: Mountian Home, ID.
Registered: Jul 2005
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posted May 21, 2013 04:52 PM
OK folks, I can officially announce this ...
In the near future, (please, do not ask me the actual date), I will begin offering a mag striping service for super 8 prints (sorry, no mag striping for standard 8mm).
Please note: This will be glue mag stripe service and not liquid magnetic striping. Also, I am betting (I have not recieved the Bolex unit yet), that this will be one stripe mono mag stripe. While I agree that stereo striping is certainly better, mono striping is better than no striping at all.
However, I ask the forums help in a number of ways.
1. Does anyone know of or have two wind/rewinds for super 8 available, as I will have to build a "workstation" for this service. That in itself is not a problem, but I do need the winds.
This will, by the way, (in my opinion) be a subsiduary of "Reel Images", as he is allowing me the use of the striper in the first place.
Please do not enundate me with striping requests right now, as I have to learn the unit first, as well as set up the work station, before I can actually set up any actual jobs to stripe, as well as discuss with Steve what I should charge to do so. Personally, I think of this as a pleasure, and not a profit making venture, but if I will be accpeting feature film stripings, well, that can take awhile.
I will let everyone know when I am ready to take on "paying jobs".
Lastly, while I am asking Steve where to secure the glue, stripe for the jobs, I would highly appreciate anybody in the forum community who could help me secure these needs, as I'm fairly sure that this stripe is not too common, the glue would probably be easier to secure.
OSI
[ May 22, 2013, 01:00 PM: Message edited by: Osi Osgood ]
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"All these moments will be lost in time, just like ... tears, in the rain. "
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Steve Klare
Film Guy
Posts: 7016
From: Long Island, NY, USA
Registered: Jun 2003
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posted May 23, 2013 08:18 PM
This reminds me of my long departed friend Tim Christian, who was twice the filmmaker I ever will be: he recorded his sound second system, striped his films, mixed a sound track and then recorded it synced. (The man made his own 'scope films!)
He wrote this article about using the Bolex striper which I've grabbed and held onto so it won't be lost: (This is the digest version!)
Striping - 2. Restoring and using a Bolex striper
by T. S. Christian, February 2002.
Trial run
Carry out intial trials on a 15 m or so length of scrap film (of course you have!). Ideally, film should be lubricated after striping. If the film is already lubricated, pass the base (shiny) side over a clean, dry felt pad to remove excess lubrican. These are proprietary cleaning fluids available.
With clean machine in good condition, preparations for striping are minimal: just load a reel of stripe and a reel of film, half fill (at least) the adhesive bottle, and you are ready to go. There are a couple of points to note, however.
To apply the main stripe to Super 8, the film should be placed on the feed reel as for projection. The film base (shiny side) must always be uppermost through the machine; the stripe should be shiny side down. The sprocket should be placed on its spindle so that the teeth are on the outside, away from the machine. To do this, loosen the Allen head set screw (1.5 mm Allen key) in the sprocket, remove the sprocket, then replace it the appropriate way round.
To apply the balance stripe to Super 8, or to apply the main stripe to Normal 8, the film should be rewound so that the end passes through the machine first, then the sprocket should be set so that its teeth are on the inside, next to the machine.
Attach a metre or so of leader to both ends of the film to be processed, so that initial alignment of the stripe is carried out on scrap. Thread the film and stripe as shown in Fig. 4 - a pair of tweezers are useful to handle the stripe.
Figure 4. Correct threading of film and stripe
Using a fine paint brush, apply a little adhesive to the edge of the film and press the end of the stripe onto it. Now plug the machine in to the power socket, and rotate the knurled knob on the end of the adhesive head fully anti-clockwise and watch carefully. The motor should start to run, film should pass through the machine, and stripe applied to it.
Final adjustments
Two adjustments will be required: tension and stripe position. The stripe centring roller rotates to move its groove across the film so that stripe can be aligned exactly on the film edge. Good lighting and a magnifying glass will be required to get this right. Main, balance, and N8 striping will all require different settings. Note the position of the roller indicator for each (a small sketch of indicator position will do).
Both film and stripe tension must be correct for successful striping. Figure 5 shows one problem due to insufficient
Figure 5. Behaviour of film and stripe around a sprocket
film tension. If the tension on the take-up reel is insufficient, the film, being stiffer than the stripe, does not follow the shape of the sprocket as closely as the stripe. Since the stripe-to-film weld may not be dry, this causes the stripe to peel off the film. Once the adhesive is exposed, it dries rapidly, so that the stripe does not become welded again on the reel. Watch the behaviour of film and stripe around the drive sprocket carefully. If the berhaviour is as shown in Fig. 5, increase the take-up reel tension. If the feed reel tension is insufficient, separation can take place between drum and sprocket, the reverse of that shown.
Stripe tension should be no greater than necessary. Excessive stripe tension could add to the separation effect shown in Fig. 5. Insufficient stripe tension will result in small loops of stripe being formed on the film.
When adjusting the machine, always run a couple of metre of film through without stopping. On starting again, there will always be a short section, that left between adhesive head and drum, that will not stick.
After striping
After stripe has been applied, leave the newly-striped film in a warm (20 °C or so) place for all the adhesive to dry. Then wind it slowly through between rewind arms as described in Part 1, stopping and releasing tension on each length. If short sections are not stuck, apply a little adhesive with a fine brush to the underside of the stripe and wind it onto the reel. If there are loops that are too long to be stuck down, cut a short section out, and stick the remainder. Increase stripe feed tension for the next run. Remember that this film could last fifty years, so make sure it is properly striped.
Next, clean all pulleys, and the drum and sprocket. Remove the adhesive head and wash adhesive away (with the acetone-thinners mixture) in a closed jar for an hour or so. Pour any adhesive remaining in the plastic bottle back into the storage container.
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All I ask is a wide screen and a projector to light her by...
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Osi Osgood
Film God
Posts: 10204
From: Mountian Home, ID.
Registered: Jul 2005
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posted May 24, 2013 12:22 PM
Steve, you are absolutely fantastic! ThanX 4 that post!
From what I understand, Wittner in Germany provides soundstripe. I don't know who else does, but if we have to go to Germany to get soundstripe, that cost (shipping ect.0 will have to be factored into the striping service ...
... but be advised. I personally will charge literally nothing for the actual striping itself. I look at this as a labor of love. Just another fellow trying to keep super 8 alive in me own little way and a major thanX, of course, to the mighty Osbourne for opening up this venture in the first place.
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"All these moments will be lost in time, just like ... tears, in the rain. "
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Osi Osgood
Film God
Posts: 10204
From: Mountian Home, ID.
Registered: Jul 2005
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posted May 24, 2013 01:00 PM
Well, that may be reel helpful, as I don't know if the striper will come with the manual, and I'll be damned if I'll go into this venture slipshod!
Once again, thanX!
Oh, another thing that people should know, (in case I didn't say it before). This striper has 400ft capacity to it for striping, so if you have a feature that needs striping (I have a "Raider of the Lost Ark" print that I am DYING to stripe!), it will have to be placed on 400ft reels for the striping process, but that is, of course, in the future.
BRian, I have not visually inspected the unit yet, but I'm betting that it will be mono striping on just one side. I know the desire to have the balance stripe as it can make for better projection, but if I can offer only mono main striping, well, it will have to do.
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"All these moments will be lost in time, just like ... tears, in the rain. "
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Hugh Thompson Scott
Film God
Posts: 3063
From: Gt. Clifton,Cumbria,England
Registered: Jan 2012
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posted May 28, 2013 10:36 PM
There used to be a firm in the UK called R & D Carnall, that made all sorts
of gadgets for 8mm use like the "Equaliser" for sorting out prints with weave,one was the "cut a rut", that carved a channel in the
film for soundstripe to lay, it was originally for removal of sound
stripe, and allowed new stripe to be applied. I have no experience of this little appliance but have never read or heard any adverse
comments on it. It just might be of use now for helping stripe to
bond better to the film base.They also made the "Hi-Spot" that
eliminated dropout and stripe peel at splices.
[ May 29, 2013, 12:04 AM: Message edited by: Hugh Thompson Scott ]
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Osi Osgood
Film God
Posts: 10204
From: Mountian Home, ID.
Registered: Jul 2005
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posted September 21, 2013 01:51 PM
Thanks for reminding about all of this ...
With much regret, I must state that I will soon be shipping this striper back to Steve O. The reason is this ...
Unfortunately, not all the parts were still with this striper. Most notably, the "wind/rewind" knobs for both arms are missing. These were of absolute importance, as they keep the reels perfectly straight, so that, as the newly striped film goes onto the reel, it's stays at a level rate and doesn't wobble (which would thereby cause the still wet stripe to move back and forth on the reel).
I tried numerous times to get this striper to work and it failed every time, (even tilting the whole thing up at an angle, to get the reels to sit flat on the arms and not wobble, still wobbled some.
So, the venture into striping with at least this machine is a no go.
I will be shipping this back to Steve shortly, and I'll inform him that if someone else, who has more mastery of this machine, is able to get it to work in it's form, (such as it is), I would encourage them to "take up the mantle" and get it to work.
In fact, if ANY of you has expertise in this kind of thing. Please by all means, contact Steve by phone and let him know that your willing to give it a go, as I would certainly love to see someone be able to operate this.
Sincerely
OSI
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"All these moments will be lost in time, just like ... tears, in the rain. "
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