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Author
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Topic: Changing cxl/cxr bulb to LED using kit
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Myron Baron
Film Handler
Posts: 49
From: Easton, Pa 18045
Registered: Jan 2008
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posted June 29, 2015 01:58 PM
If you are tired of replacing your CXL/CXR 50W 8V bulbs, burning film stuck in gate, take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNA1vffiHrE I know you pay anywhere from $24.00 to $34.00 for replacement bulbs, and they only last for approx 25 hours, the more you turn them on and off, the less hours you get from them, because of filament fatigue, well threat no more, with this kit, you can turn the projector on and off as much as you like with out causing the LED to burn out, and also there is no heat, so the movie film can be projecting and the projector stopped and the film will not burn, even if the film gets caught in the gate, you do not have to worry about the film burning. Check out the video on the link above. Also it is on E-Bay listed under cxl/cxr LED. Right now we only have a kit for this bulb, as this is the most common one used in most 8mm projectors. 
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Myron Baron
Film Handler
Posts: 49
From: Easton, Pa 18045
Registered: Jan 2008
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posted June 30, 2015 09:07 PM
I'm sorry I don't know anything about tungsten, all I can tell you I see no difference between the bulb and the LED, the color's look the same to me. All I know is for 8 years, I have been transferring films to DVD, and the bulb I was using CXL/CXR 8V 50W, would burn out after about 20 hours, and some times the film would stop in the gate, for some reason or another, and the film would start to burn (blister), now the bulb will last 1,000 hours or more, and no more burning, and I see no difference in the colors, using the lLED or the CXL/CXR bulb. To me it is a win, win situation.
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Rob Young.
Phenomenal Film Handler
Posts: 1633
From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003
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posted July 01, 2015 12:42 PM
Myron, brilliant idea and design.
In terms of colour temperature, if you project a clear white image using the LED lamp, and then point a video camera at it which has manual colour temperature control, you should get a reading in degrees Kelvin from the camera.
Roughly, 3200K is tungsten and 5600K is average daylight.
The lower the K, the warmer the image.
Since our eyes can adapt to colour temperature, unlike cameras, it shouldn't really matter when watching a projected image, and indeed a higher colour temperature often results in better perceived images.
Likewise, when doing tele-cine, the camera should address colour temperature, so I think you are right; it's a win, win!
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Myron Baron
Film Handler
Posts: 49
From: Easton, Pa 18045
Registered: Jan 2008
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posted July 02, 2015 07:37 AM
James:
The only kit that is ready right now is for the CXL/CXR 8V 50W bulb, go to the top of this posting. But if there is enough of a call for the other type bulbs above, I will start to make a kit for this bulb. (see Steves post). The kit I have now gives offf very little heat, I can stop the projetor with the film still in the gate and it will not burn, I have done this for twenty min. already, and then started the projector. Right now my kit is putting out 1400 lumens, its just as bright as the bulb or maybe a little brighter. There is no color loss, the LED is cool white. The reason the kit is $185.00 is because there is quite a lot of machining involved, it takes me three hours to get the piece ready for LED insertion, plus the wiring involved. Don't forget the cost of the electronic parts. All the recipient has to do is insert the LED and attach two wires. It is set to go. Go to http://www.dvds2envy.com go to the cxl/cxr replacement tab, check out the demo. Any further info needed do not hesitate to ask.
Myron
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Myron Baron
Film Handler
Posts: 49
From: Easton, Pa 18045
Registered: Jan 2008
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posted July 04, 2015 11:51 AM
To all:
I wonder how many people would purchase the 15V 100W bulb in LED, I purchased one and I have a way to convert it to LED, but it encompasses using an external power supply and LED Driver, for which I can get up to 2100 Lumens output. It would install the same way you remove your old bulb, but you would have to connect two wires from outside and bring them into the bulb cage. I know every projector is different, you would have to figure that out for your selves, it is only common sense, you do not want the two wires near any moving parts, I have an old Elmo 8mm projector with no way to go under neath and bring up the wires, but I notice on the back there is ventilation groves, which I could bring the wires through and tape them to the motor housing, they say where there is a will there is a way, I find it very true. Please let me hear from interested parties, as I do not want to invest the time and money and then am stuck with something no one wants to purchase.
Thank you
Myron
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