8mm Forum: Eumig S 802D Motor Fault Fix Possibly cine film transfer 8mm super 8 Repair

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Topic: Eumig S 802D Motor Fault Fix Possibly cine film transfer 8mm super 8 Repair

Carl Pattison
Junior
Posts: 7
From: Hartlepool, Cleveland, UK
Registered: Aug 2013

posted August 06, 2013 03:50 PM

Hi Guys Im New Here, great info in all sections, very interesting.
been messing with super 8 & standard 8 for a while now
built a very basic telecine out of junk i had laying around,
then found a jessops TC Box.
But i have a Eumig S 802D with a speed problem or no motion at all.
so im in I.T. Do a lot of laser printer repairs, especially paper jams, we use platenclene to repair the rubber to extend life,
so i thought i would test it on my Eumig today with these results, Please see video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqyZqPN-UTo

had great results but i have another problem, gate jumping Or bouncing.
any advice would be great, please feel free to look at my other cine videos on my youtube channel

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Janice Glesser
Film Goddess

Posts: 3468
From: Sunnyvale, CA USA
Registered: Sep 2011

posted August 06, 2013 05:50 PM

I used the sand paper method on my 810D which worked very well....but I too have been having an issue with the jumping frames and hope someone here has some input on this problem.

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Janice

"I'm having a very good day!"
Richard Dreyfuss - Let It Ride (1989).

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Zechariah Sporre
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 557
From: Ladysmith, WI U.S.A.
Registered: Dec 2010

posted August 06, 2013 08:24 PM

I have found the dual 8mm Eumig projectors a little more prone to the jumping/shaky screen. My theory is, that it is because they only have one claw that moves it through the gate (instead of 2 like most projectors). I have found that in almost all cases if I lubricate the film it runs through just fine (unless the film itself is damaged).

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There is a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness

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Maurice Leakey
Film God

Posts: 5895
From: Bristol. United Kingdom
Registered: Oct 2007

posted August 08, 2013 10:26 AM

Carl
Just watched your video. Here's a little tip. Only change the speed when the projector is not in a projecting mode, i.e., not when the little ball is engaged with either of the two black plattens.

It is OK to change speed whist the motor is running as the motor itself always runs at the one speed.

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Maurice

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Maurizio Di Cintio
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 977
From: Ortona, Italy
Registered: Jan 2004

posted August 08, 2013 10:46 AM

Is it my impression or the lower sprocket film guide is open??? This guide, which is not spring activated, must be closed (i.e. next to the sprocket itself) at all times during operation: you only have to open it when changing sprockets. Otherwise the lower loop of film will become too narrow, which will result in unsteady/jumpy pictures on screen!!!

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Maurizio

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Pasquale DAlessio
Film God

Posts: 3523
From: Bristol,RI, USA
Registered: May 2010

posted August 08, 2013 11:00 AM

Carl

WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!! [Big Grin]

PatD

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John Capazzo
Master Film Handler

Posts: 421
From: Hillside, NJ USA
Registered: Jan 2004

posted August 08, 2013 05:42 PM

Sanding the rubber discs is not the answer to any problem on any Eumig. In the long run, it will create more problems such as the removal of rubber. Remove rubber even with fine paper and you're doing exactly what shouldn't be done: removal. When the rubber is almost gone, the spindle won't rub against anything but metal. You want more rubber; not less. If any of the 800 series is running slowly or came to a halt, remove the rear cover then re plug the cord and as the motor area is facing you, put a screw driver under the motor and lift (the left would be FWD) This will force the splindle to hit the rubber wheel which makes it go at correct 24 or 18. The motor is on a rocker and meant to rock left to right when in FWD and RWD. As far as jumping, could be a few things. Improper threading; chewed up film (process of elimination first); dried 8mm film (usually standard 8mm silent agfa tends to dry up faster) or claw is out of alignment. I've had several almost dead 802, 807 and 810 and the methods I've stated always worked. Hope this helps. Let us know.

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"the image is about 30 feet ahead of us."

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Rob Young.
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1633
From: Cheshire, U.K.
Registered: Dec 2003

posted August 08, 2013 06:59 PM

But isn't the real problem that the rubber discs harden, thus slip against the metal bearing?

Therefore solutions such as sanding, etc...

John, when you say use a screw driver to lift the motor...can you elaborate? Most intriguing! [Smile]

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Maurizio Di Cintio
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 977
From: Ortona, Italy
Registered: Jan 2004

posted August 09, 2013 05:37 AM

Actually I'm intrigued too. What do you accomplish by so doing?
In fact using sand paper on these discs (and rubbing veeery gently!) is not a permanent fix buit a temporary one: that's because these discs start to slip when they are hardened/worn out: so the only really effective fix is to replace them. But given the current situations, sanding may be a quick, cheap and effective option: after, this allows to keep using the machine as it is prior to do something which eventually is due anyway: replacement. But again, what do you accomplish by lifting the motor with a screwdriver? Thanks.

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Maurizio

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Carl Pattison
Junior
Posts: 7
From: Hartlepool, Cleveland, UK
Registered: Aug 2013

posted August 09, 2013 02:34 PM

thanks for all the advice, i dont think you should shove a screwdriver in(health & safety & all that) maybe a wooden spoon handle or somthing plastic will put pressure on the left or right.
making the ball motor contact better, the films i have tested in it
are all great condition, all parts well lubed, i wouldnt advice sandpaper ether, the platenclene is designed to make rubber swell a little whitch has worked, i use it daily on laser printer pickup rollers. also has anyone looked at this little device from france for cine capture, i have had a go at making one & getting close but has anyone here made one.
http://www.easy-transfert.com/product.php?id_product=21

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John Yapp
Expert Film Handler

Posts: 148
From: Telford England.
Registered: Dec 2011

posted August 09, 2013 04:00 PM

Carl, if you currently have a camcorder capable of at least 12x optical zoom, you would be better buying a 2" 16mm projector lens off ebay, such as this one, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-ELMO-PROJECTOR-LENS-PROMINAR-No-74486-F-1-5-F-50mm-COVER-MADE-IN-JAPAN-/171073265041?pt=UK_Photography_VintagePhotography_VintagePhotoAccessories& hash=item27d4c2dd91 and replacing the Eumig's lens with it for telecine through the gate. You then need a diffuser, (Printer paper will do at a push, and a low wattage bulb. (I use a 20w.) total cost would be around £15-25, and excellent transfers can be made in this way.
To be honest, the example video shown on the french site doesn't look that impressive unless you go for the 3ccd option.

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Dominique De Bast
Film God

Posts: 4486
From: Brussels, Belgium
Registered: Jun 2013

posted September 06, 2013 04:05 PM

Johne, I tried your method on a Mark S 810 D HQS. It works only the time you're lifting the motor. So, it is good to check but for a few seconds it is useless to fix the projector.

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Dominique

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