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Author Topic: Looks like I still need a scope lens
Vidar Olavesen
Film God

Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012


 - posted March 24, 2013 01:01 PM      Profile for Vidar Olavesen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
I need one I can use for both 16mm and Super 8 ... Anyone can sell me a working one? Bought one from Christian, but it's just blurry, no matter what setting I use on it ... And can't really see much difference in close or far setting, just the same blur. I am not sure how much difference one should see, but looks like it's broken in some way.

Desperate for a working setup, as my Raiders of the Lost Ark scope is soon due :-) As well as the GS-1200 Xenon

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Gerald Santana
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1060
From: Cottage Grove OR
Registered: Dec 2010


 - posted March 24, 2013 03:10 PM      Profile for Gerald Santana   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Vidar,

Here some tips:

a.) set your projector at least 15-20 ft. away from the screen.
b.) focus your prime lens
c.) calibrate the scope lens until it is horizontal then focus by moving it closer or away from the prime lens.

If you have all one piece, make sure you have enough distance from projector to projected image.

--------------------
http://lostandoutofprintfilms.blogspot.com/

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Vidar Olavesen
Film God

Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012


 - posted March 24, 2013 03:13 PM      Profile for Vidar Olavesen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks, will try that ... But still wonder if you should see any difference in the optics when turning the ring on the anamorphic lens?

Just tried ... It's blurry all the way ... No matter what setting the anamorphic lens is at. It's about 6-7 meter from projector to screen. And moving the lens closer or further from the prime lens doesn't help at all.

Thanks for the tip though

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Oemer Yalinkilic
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 547
From: Berlin, Germany
Registered: Jul 2003


 - posted March 24, 2013 04:01 PM      Profile for Oemer Yalinkilic   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Is there no scale on the lens for the distance to the screen?
If not, it is very difficult to adjust.
Or your lens is a 35mm projector lens and for long distance use only.

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Vidar Olavesen
Film God

Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012


 - posted March 24, 2013 04:18 PM      Profile for Vidar Olavesen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Yes, as I said, I see no difference whatsoever when turning that scale (I called it ring though). It's a Nikkor AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR lens

And it has been used on Christian Bjørgens GS-800 before and he had no problems. So either I am as stupid as hell or something went wrong in the shipping. Since nothing moves inside when turning the ring, I think it's the latter, but hope it's me being stupid (then there's a chance of finding out what I do wrong) ;-)

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Christian Bjorgen
Jedi Master Film Handler

Posts: 996
From: Kvinnherad, Norway
Registered: Oct 2009


 - posted March 24, 2013 04:36 PM      Profile for Christian Bjorgen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Vidar: the info about the lens posted in your previous post is the info for my DSR camera lens (the box I used for shipping). The lens is a B&H Anomorphot 16/2x (or something like that).

And like Vidar said, I used this lens for two years without any hassle, could some parts of the lens have come loose during shipping?

--------------------
Well who’s on first? Yeah. Go ahead and tell me. Who. The guy on first. Who. The guy playin’ first base. Who. The guy on first. Who is on first! What are you askin’ me for? I’m askin’ you!

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Vidar Olavesen
Film God

Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012


 - posted March 24, 2013 04:40 PM      Profile for Vidar Olavesen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Oh, I thought it was the original box :-)

My bad ... just read on the package ...

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David Ollerearnshaw
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1373
From: Penistone Sheffield UK
Registered: Oct 2012


 - posted March 24, 2013 05:03 PM      Profile for David Ollerearnshaw   Author's Homepage   Email David Ollerearnshaw   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Check this out it could solve your problem.

Bell & Howell 2x
Bell & Howell Kowa
M54x24TPI (Series VII is 54x36TPI) ? none ? ? both the projector's/camera's lens and the anamorphot need to be set to the same focusing distance approx. 1/3 f-stop Focusing: 5ft to infinity. Designed to screw straight onto the front of all late model wide lenses as used in Bell and Howell models TQ3, 1680, 2580, 2592, 1590, 1592, 1685 and most Filmosound models. Other models require a step-up/-down ring (aka filter-adapter)

Anamorphic Lenses

--------------------
I love the smell of film in the morning.

http://www.thereelimage.co.uk/

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Vidar Olavesen
Film God

Posts: 2232
From: Sarpsborg, Norway
Registered: Nov 2012


 - posted March 24, 2013 05:30 PM      Profile for Vidar Olavesen   Author's Homepage     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
If I had a better understanding it might help :-/

Could anyone confirm that when looking through the lens, should there be any difference in the optics (sharpness or whatever) inside when you turn the scale ring ... I would believe something would move inside the lens, but it doesn't whatsoever

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Joe Taffis
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1592
From: United States
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted March 25, 2013 10:19 AM      Profile for Joe Taffis   Email Joe Taffis   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Nothing moves inside when you turn the ring on the scope lens to adjust it for distance. I keep mine set at 4 meters, which is the distance between the projector and screen, and then focus with the prime lens....

--------------------
Joe Taffis

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Martin Jones
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1269
From: Thetford , Norfolk,England
Registered: May 2008


 - posted March 25, 2013 12:00 PM      Profile for Martin Jones     Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Not strictly true, Joe... the distance between the front and rear elements changes slightly.
The purpose of the adjustment is to compensate for the two DIFFERENT Focal Lengths of the Camera Lens/Anamorphic combination when SHOOTING film...
When an Anamorphic is added to a camera lens (taking a 50mm lens used with a 2X Scope lens as an example) the combination has a Focal Length of 50mm in the vertical plane, but only 25mm in the horizontal plane. This is not a problem at small apertures as the "Depth of Field" of BOTH Focal Lengths is sufficient to give good focus at most distances. But as the aperture of the camera lens is increased, objects at some distances may go "out of focus" in one axis only, depending on where the Camera Lens is focused. This give a strange "fuzzy" effect. The solution is to vary the distance between the elements, which actually varies the "squeeze ratio" slightly (and hence the "horizontal Focal Length"), thus tending to compensate for the loss of depth of field.
That's a crude description, but then it is a crude method of dealing with the problem.
An anamorphic is actually a Galilean Telescope (Opera Glass) in one axis only, and because it uses negative and positive lenses in the same ratio as the "Squeeze", separated by the sum of their focal lengths, it is AFOCAL (i.e. it does not affect Focus in any way). As soon as you vary the distance between the elements, this relationship no longer holds, and focus is affected DIFFERENTLY in the two different axes! So such adjustment is(strictly)a bodge. But it does "work" to an adequate degree.
There is a different requirement for Projection. Because there is only one Object Plane (the Film) and one Image Plane (the Screen), there is NO "depth of Field" problem and (contrary to popular belief) there should be no need to re-focus the Anamorphic for different screen distances: the Infinity setting should give the correct distance between elements, and the correct "Squeeze".In fact, Anamorphics such as the Iscomorphot, which was sold for "projection use only" do not have an adjustment.My own home made anamorphic (now about 58 years old!), which consists of two simple elements, gives good focus at all screen distances WITHOUT adjustment. Likewise the Iscomorphot that I used to own.When I started to use my home made lens for filming I had to build an adjustment facility in to obtain good results at low light levels. Also, I found that in high brightness conditions my commercial Magnarama (1.75:1)gave acceptable focus on the same subject over a wide range of distance settings, and I use the same ("infinity")setting at all screen distances when projecting.

[ March 25, 2013, 02:53 PM: Message edited by: Martin Jones ]

--------------------
Retired TV Service Engineer
Ongoing interest in Telecine....

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Joe Taffis
Phenomenal Film Handler

Posts: 1592
From: United States
Registered: Jun 2003


 - posted March 25, 2013 09:39 PM      Profile for Joe Taffis   Email Joe Taffis   Send New Private Message       Edit/Delete Post 
Thanks for that info Martin. I have a Singer 16-D, and can't see any movement at all when I turn it, but I guess I just can't see it. My scope projection is sharp, so that's what matters to me! I hope it helps Vidar [Smile]

--------------------
Joe Taffis

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