Can this be removed from a Eumig Projector?

[Shane C. Collins]

Thanks Joseph and Nick! Yep I'm gonna leave everything as is. After a good cleaning it projects way brighter now. I couldn't believe the difference! Joseph I am very surprised how sharp and crisp that 1.4 lens is now. I didn't notice this until the light path was cleaned. one particular thing I noticed was how much better my Ektachrome 64T prints, from years past, look compared to say a 1.3 lens. Not sure why that would be, but the colors just seem to pop more. Even my modern Ektachrome 7294 100D films shot in the last few years look better. I may just stick with this lens, but will try out the faster one when it comes in. The 1.4 seems to focus much easier. I've never used a lens higher than a 1.3 so it's a pleasant surprise.

Also I must add, I'm using a Da-Lite silver screen that always gives me a brighter, and sharper image than my previous white screen.

[Paul Adsett]

Shane, in theory the f1.0 lens will be almost twice as bright ( 1.4 squared/1.0 squared) as the f1.4.
And welcome to the Eumig family!

[Shane C. Collins]

Shane, in theory the f1.0 lens will be almost twice as bright ( 1.4 squared/1.0 squared) as the f1.4.
And welcome to the Eumig family!

That makes sense Paul! I'm surprised just how good this Eumig lens is at 9 feet projected. This may be a hidden gem among the early models. I've used enough lenses from various models and I kid you not this 1.4 is sharp. I once had a Eumig 810 and that lens sucked LOL. It's even close in sharpness to my Bolex 1.3. But that could be a perceived sharpness not sure?

[Shane C. Collins]

So one thing I did notice last night while projecting was a strange noise. It didn't start until about halfway through a 7" reel. It's a wop, wop, wop, wop..ert, ert, ert type noise. I lubed everything the best I could. Does anyone know what could be causing this strange noise? It seems to be caused by more strain on the motor maybe after things have heated up. Or could be something needing lubed in the gate/disc area? It doesn't seem to effect anything projection wise, but does get somewhat loud. In reverse it goes away.

[Brian Fretwell]

That makes sense Paul! I'm surprised just how good this Eumig lens is at 9 feet projected. This may be a hidden gem among the early models. I've used enough lenses from various models and I kid you not this 1.4 is sharp. I once had a Eumig 810 and that lens sucked LOL. It's even close in sharpness to my Bolex 1.3. But that could be a perceived sharpness not sure?

As he said the light increase is "in theory" it all depends of whether there is that amount of light passing through the film that isn't passing through the old lens. I have noticed a couple of low f number lenses that have the element facing the film with not much bigger diameter than those with a higher one, the only increase being because the amount of light leaving the lens is nearly the same as that entering and not internally absorbd.

[Joseph Banfield]

Shane, nice to hear someone actually agrees with me regarding the Eumig 1,4 lens...I've always said it's an underrated gem!

I read what you said about the noise but don't really understand. Perhaps you could post a short video showing the problem and putting a link here?

[Shane C. Collins]

Shane, nice to hear someone actually agrees with me regarding the Eumig 1,4 lens...I've always said it's an underrated gem!

I read what you said about the noise but don't really understand. Perhaps you could post a short video showing the problem and putting a link here?

I think it's those rubber disc causing the noise after things have warmed up. I may need to clean them better. Also I have discovered if the leader film isn't trimmed just right, or loaded in such a way it will start to eat at it. It will start to bunch up after the second sprocket as it goes into the film path just under the light cover. I have to really pay attention it seems or it really gets bad. If it loads perfectly all is good. It will remain good throughout projection.

[Shane C. Collins]

So some more digging and I figured out why the film leader was getting bent, and chewed after the second sprocket. There's a small metal tab that swings down above the film path. This was not seated properly in the film path area. I realigned it, and now the film runs smoothly from supply reel to take-up. I would have never thought to look, but kept noticing how the film would hang up in that area. This hobby is fun when everything works out in the end Hahaha.

[Joseph Banfield]

Glad to hear things are running smoothly again for you.

[Paul Adsett]

I think it's those rubber disc causing the noise after things have warmed up

First thing I thought of when I read your post Shane. I would give them another clean, and if that does not work wipe the discs with rubber belt dressing (from auto supply store) and let dry overnight. Another possibility is cracked motor bushings. Van Eck supplies replacements.
Once you solve the few quirks on your Eumig it should serve you well for decades. They are extremely well built and robust machines, courtesy of "The Wizards of Vienna".

[Shane C. Collins]

First thing I thought of when I read your post Shane. I would give them another clean, and if that does not work wipe the discs with rubber belt dressing (from auto supply store) and let dry overnight. Another possibility is cracked motor bushings. Van Eck supplies replacements.
Once you solve the few quirks on your Eumig it should serve you well for decades. They are extremely well built and robust machines, courtesy of "The Wizards of Vienna".

Paul, I do plan to revisit those rubber disc, and did use some belt dressing. However, I only wiped them down, and did not let the machine sit overnight. I'll go back and do your recommendations. I'll also look into replacing those motor mounts. Do you happen to know how involved it is to replace them? Or know of any written instructions on replacing them?

[Joseph Banfield]

Shane, I wrote about those motor mounts back in 2020...this is what I wrote regarding changing them:

It's very simple to change out the motor bushings. First you unplug the two wires to the motor and the two screws on the fan cover. Then the motor and fan cover will come out together with a bit of fiddling due to the recording switch. You should not mess with the two screws directly underneath the front motor mount...you want the two screws that hold the fan cover only! The back motor mount is on the projector's chasis. There are also two washers, one on the front and one on the back mount so don't loose them. After changing the mounts make sure when you reinstall the motor to make sure that the speed regulator engages the piece that slides up and down on the motor shaft. If it does not you will not be able to change from silent to sound speed. Also you may need to save those bronze bushings that are in your old mounts and transfer them to the new mounts before starting to reassemble the motor back into the machine. That would only apply if the new mounts do not come with the bronze bushings already installed. I know it sounds complicated but it is really quite easy in fact. I hope that helps.

[Shane C. Collins]

Shane, I wrote about those motor mounts back in 2020...this is what I wrote regarding changing them:

It's very simple to change out the motor bushings. First you unplug the two wires to the motor and the two screws on the fan cover. Then the motor and fan cover will come out together with a bit of fiddling due to the recording switch. You should not mess with the two screws directly underneath the front motor mount...you want the two screws that hold the fan cover only! The back motor mount is on the projector's chasis. There are also two washers, one on the front and one on the back mount so don't loose them. After changing the mounts make sure when you reinstall the motor to make sure that the speed regulator engages the piece that slides up and down on the motor shaft. If it does not you will not be able to change from silent to sound speed. Also you may need to save those bronze bushings that are in your old mounts and transfer them to the new mounts before starting to reassemble the motor back into the machine. That would only apply if the new mounts do not come with the bronze bushings already installed. I know it sounds complicated but it is really quite easy in fact. I hope that helps.

Thank you Joseph this is the info I needed! I'm good at tinkering so this shouldn't be a problem. Now here's a question. There are two versions available online. A seller on eBay and Van Eck Services. But both versions are different. The seller on eBay says the bronze bushings are not needed with his version. So not sure which to choose. Here's a couple photos. I guess the other question is which is stronger?

This photo is the version sold on eBay.



And this of course Van Eck's.

[Joseph Banfield]

Shane, I can't tell you which motor mount is best as I've never used either...make my own.

From what I remember the mount that does not have the bronze bushing requires that you use the original one from your disintegrated mount, while the other is a complete replacement ready to install.

As to quality, I would have no guess, but since it just allows pivoting from left to right of the motor, I would think either mount would be more than adequate.

[Shane C. Collins]

Thanks Joseph! I'll probably order from Van Eck, as I like to give him business when I can. In case you were interested, here's a photo I snapped of my Eumig Mark M a few days ago. It's probably my favorite silent Super 8 machine to date. I really like the look, and construction of this small beast. Everything just screams....quality! Even my Bolex take-up reel compliments the projector. I like how Eumig added chrome to all the dials, and sprockets. Makes for a classy look!