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Shane, something else I thought of too after you mentioned the cosmetic chrome inserts. The old glue often fails and those inserts fall out and get lost. The glue becomes brittle and looses its grip over time. That is why you see so many of the Eumig machines missing those elements, especially the inserts on the caps of the threading lamps that have 12v lamps behind them. But they're easily cleaned of old crusty glue and reglued back into place with a drop of epoxy placed in the center and pushed back into place which spreads it out without it seeping out the edges and making a mess...but if it does a cotton swab diped in alcohol will clean it right up. I reglue all of those decorative pieces on my machines as they always fall off sooner or later on their own and have a habit of getting lost. I check the glue's integrity with a small suction cup moisted with a bit of water and pull on them. Usually they pull right off with no resistance at all because the glue has already failed. If they're still holding well, I assume someone before me has already had to reglue it and move to the next one. Also, Eumig used this same glue on the aluminum logos and other trim pieces too, both on the plastic cover and the machine itself, so do yourself a favor and check the glue's integrity before you start loosing pieces.
Shane, something else I thought of too after you mentioned the cosmetic chrome inserts. The old glue often fails and those inserts fall out and get lost. The glue becomes brittle and looses its grip over time. That is why you see so many of the Eumig machines missing those elements, especially the inserts on the caps of the threading lamps that have 12v lamps behind them. But they're easily cleaned of old crusty glue and reglued back into place with a drop of epoxy placed in the center and pushed back into place which spreads it out without it seeping out the edges and making a mess...but if it does a cotton swab diped in alcohol will clean it right up. I reglue all of those decorative pieces on my machines as they always fall off sooner or later on their own and have a habit of getting lost. I check the glue's integrity with a small suction cup moisted with a bit of water and pull on them. Usually they pull right off with no resistance at all because the glue has already failed. If they're still holding well, I assume someone before me has already had to reglue it and move to the next one. Also, Eumig used this same glue on the aluminum logos and other trim pieces too, both on the plastic cover and the machine itself, so do yourself a favor and check the glue's integrity before you start loosing pieces.
Thanks Joseph! I've already had to re-glue the little plastic that covers the front portion of the threading lamp. So far everything else is holding, but I'll recheck the next time I have the projector out. Last night I ordered those motor mounts, and a new power cord from Van Eck. The original power cord looks pretty old. It works fine but the socket extension is getting brittle. It's nice Van Eck has new replacements. The cord is a bit odd where it plugs into the projector. Not the usual socket you see on most projectors.
Here's another thought for those people who do not have an original power cord for those Eumig machines that use that rectangular power socket on the front of the machine. Those old bakelite sockets that were used on toaster and electric irons will fit the Eumig two-pin power connector even though they were designed to grab round pins instead of flat ones. But not if their bakelite cases are too thick, as some are, which won't fit inside the rectangular opening...but many are slim enough and will work very well indeed! Just thought that might help someone whose projector don't have a dedicated Eumig power cord supplied with it and want to test it.
Here's another thought for those people who do not have an original power cord for those Eumig machines that use that rectangular power socket on the front of the machine. Those old bakelite sockets that were used on toaster and electric irons will fit the Eumig two-pin power connector even though they were designed to grab round pins instead of flat ones. But not if their bakelite cases are too thick, as some are, which won't fit inside the rectangular opening...but many are slim enough and will work very well indeed! Just thought that might help someone whose projector don't have a dedicated Eumig power cord supplied with it and want to test it.
Joseph that's a great recommendation! My current cord works well, but just looks very old. I figured an upgrade to Van Eck's new power cord was a good decision.
A drop of oil at each bearing of the motor should not hurt anything. The top bearing can be reached with a syringe filled with oil. I can't remember if the bottom bearing can be reached easily or not...it's been a while. After oiling the bearing make sure it does not spray any oil on the drive discs...if it does clean it off with a bit of alcohol.
A drop of oil at each bearing of the motor should not hurt anything. The top bearing can be reached with a syringe filled with oil. I can't remember if the bottom bearing can be reached easily or not...it's been a while. After oiling the bearing make sure it does not spray any oil on the drive discs...if it does clean it off with a bit of alcohol.
Thanks Joseph! I'll investigate things once the motor mounts arrive. The Honeywell Elmo I have makes things easy since it has two oiling ports.
Here's two photos of a motor from a Eumig Mark S, the sound version of my silent projector. Any chance you could point out where I want to add oil?
You would oil just where the shaft of the motor enters the bearing. In the case of the upper bearing that would be just underneath the lower brass thing. But like I said you will need a syringe to get in there as there is little space. I assume the bearing at the bottom would be similar, but as I said, I've not done one in a long time and can't remember how it is set up at the bottom bearing.
And also Shane, that brown nylon piece that is activated by the speed selector needs to be removed and its channel that it rides in needs to cleaned with a Q-tip soaked in alcohol. The brown nylon piece is mounted just underneath the nickel plated, brass drive that rides on the rubber drive discs when the motor is installed in the projector. Simply grab the nylon piece by its tiny ball and pull it straight out to clean that and the channel it rides in. That piece if dirty causes a lot of unnecessary squeally type of noise and dried up, gummy lubricant can also cause the motor to not run at maximun speed too...you just never know what someone has sprayed in there or lubed it with in the past, so better safe than sorry. Remember that nylon piece remains stationary in actual use but the motor is always spinning through it. Its also what lifts the drive wheel up and down while changing speeds.
In short, one piece of crud or debris between that nylon piece and the spinning motor shaft will cause a unique type of noise that is often heard on the Eumig machines due to that system.
And also Shane, that brown nylon piece that is activated by the speed selector needs to be removed and its channel that it rides in needs to cleaned with a Q-tip soaked in alcohol. The brown nylon piece is mounted just underneath the nickel plated, brass drive that rides on the rubber drive discs when the motor is installed in the projector. Simply grab the nylon piece by its tiny ball and pull it straight out to clean that and the channel it rides in. That piece if dirty causes a lot of unnecessary squeally type of noise and dried up, gummy lubricant can also cause the motor to not run at maximun speed too...you just never know what someone has sprayed in there or lubed it with in the past, so better safe than sorry. Remember that nylon piece remains stationary in actual use but the motor is always spinning through it. Its also what lifts the drive wheel up and down while changing speeds.
In short, one piece of crud or debris between that nylon piece and the spinning motor shaft will cause a unique type of noise that is often heard on the Eumig machines due to that system.
Joseph would that be the part with ball that I drew an arrow too? I assume slips into the nylon part your referring too? Also should I relube that little ball once I'm done cleaning it? I have that synthetic Super Lube that works well.
You could put some lube on that ball but I doubt it is necessary since that ball is just moved by the speed selector from time to time when changing speeds. Yes, the arrow indcates the part I'm talking about. Just grab it by its ball and pull it toward you. It should pull off easily and snap back into place when it's been cleaned.
You could put some lube on that ball but I doubt it is necessary since that ball is just moved by the speed selector from time to time when changing speeds. Yes, the arrow indcates the part I'm talking about. Just grab it by its ball and pull it toward you. It should pull off easily and snap back into place when it's been cleaned.
Thanks Joseph, so I assume after I take the two screws out holding the motor and fan, just release the ball and pull it towards me?
Yea, the motor has to be removed from the projector to really clean that part well. But if it's not making noise then I wouldn't go through all the trouble of taking the motor out again.
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