Wolverine-Hawkeye Telecine

[Bradley Moon]

Hello Everyone. I've enjoyed reading through the archived and this current forum. There's a lot of great work going on here!

I have a few questions, I hope you can guide me on the correct course of action.

I'm using a stock Wolverine Reels2Digital Moviemaker (not the pro version). I want to scan the movies with zero magnification, images centered, low sharpness and -0.5 light. After the scan, I want to take the footage into a video editor so that I can scale and block the footage, basically keeping the 4:3 ratio, so this will block off the top and bottom margins and of course the extra left and right. Also, change the framerate per Super 8 or 8mm.

So it looks like my best option would be to flash the firmware to the 1080x1440 firmware located here:
http://retromania.pandelground.com/w...tal-moviemaker

Will this firmware work with my version of the Wolverine?
Do you feel this is the best resolution for my needs?
Is there a different firmware I should be aware of?

Thanks again for your help!

[Richard Ivakitch]

Hi Stan, I am like Chuck and have been following this thread for a bit and ready to start diving in. I was hoping as well there would be a kit to buy. Please let me know if there is such a thing. I have my own camera already.
Thanks

[Stan Jelavic]

Hi Chuck, I do not have parts for the kit any longer but can get them. The price will be higher due to shipping charges from different suppliers. Do you plan to get your own camera? You can contact me via a private message.

[Chuck Tsocanos]

Stan, I havent looked at this thread for a while (maybe 2-3 years). Are you selling the "hawkeye" kit to upgrade the wolverine? If so, Im interested, assuming I can still buy the units and the needed parts - I see the pro version still selling on Amazon for around $400. Im pretty handy with a solder iron if you dont mind pointing me to instructions. I have a box of super 8 film I would love to convert myself with HD output.

Thanks, Chuck

[Stan Jelavic]

Hi Bryan. There is no schematic for the control board. I do have the interface pinouts and that can be some help depending on the type of issue that you have. So please describe the issue and I may be able to point you in the right direction. BTW the firmware is not available either but there is some info available on control registers etc. It is very tricky because you have to solder 3 wires to the tiny test pads on the controller and then connect them to the UART to USB converter and then use the terminal emulator on the PC. That way you can change the sampling rates and a few more things but you will not get much improvement in the image quality. In addition I don't think that will help you with debugging. If it is a power supply issue, you can disconnect the board from the power supply and connect the usb cable and power up the board that way. Hope this helps.

[Bryan Lamm]

Hi All. I've followed this thread all the way from the old forums. I recently picked up a defective wolverine 8mm scanner that has something wrong with the control board. I'm not ready to convert it over to the upgraded board you guys are working on but need to try and repair the original board. I know someone on here did a breakdown or had a schematic of the original board and maybe the firmware. Can you please help me or direct me to documentation on it? Or possibly sell me the original board they are no longer using? Thank you

[Stan Jelavic]

Just finished another Hawkeye build with the UX226 camera and the AICO 16mm lens. Noticed that there is no lens flare at all. Used to have some flare before but now none. Maybe they redesigned the lens, not sure. Here is a test capture.

[Stan Jelavic]

Looks like this thread is getting very rusty. I still have some Hawkeye stock and if there is any interest I can sell the boards just to cover my costs say around $50 per board. Let me know if there is any interest. Also would be interested if I could get any feedback from the Hawkeye users, good, bad, whatever.

[Stan Jelavic]

Hi Steve, there are no changes since June 2020. Check the user manual ver 14 for kit installation instructions.
https://github.com/vintagefilmography/Hawkeye
If you are not sure about something just post your question here or send me a private message.

[Steve Lunt]

Hi, bit of a thread resurrection

I bought from Stan back in June 2020 the mod board and camera

There are a lot of pages to wade through, but are there any brief instructions so I can get the board and camera installed so I can scan my films

Has anything changed at all since June 2020 ?

I have the followiung parts

Hawkeye rev 12.0
switches with run speed turbo fan rewind rev switches

tbl 12-2 c 5mp camera

Steve

[Stan Jelavic]

Hi Arne, You can try compressed air with the lens removed. Be careful though some cans with compressed air could spray out liquid propellent and that would smudge the sensor. Hold the can upright and go easy with it.
If this does not work then remove the lens holder by removing the 2 holder screws and then clean the sensor with a lint free cloth and some alcohol and dry it off with a dry lint free cloth. After that you can use compressed air to remove any possible leftover dust.

[Arne Ansper]

I'm making the first steps with Hawkeye. Wonderful stuff.

I have one question regarding the cleaning of camera sensor. It seems that I have some dust particles there. What is the proper/safe cleaning procedure? Can I use compressed air from can? Do I have to remove the lens holder as well or is it sufficient if I just unscrew the lens?

[Bruce Davis]

Hi Stan, I have noticed 1 frame dropped almost every time while it is in live mode, but only the one frame even if live mode is left on for longer periods say 20 mins, so that probably does not matter. I have noticed the frame count increases in live mode but resets and starts again when Trigger mode is activated, did not notice this with a previous version (might have just missed it).

The sequence switch occurs (when it does) soon after the start, have taken a video,
Link Below :-
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtIUdJCJJJGig2Q7...tfq3r?e=KXe2Zc

Started HDR BW 3 times, the video shows the image sequence uploads to the computer for each of the 3 times.
The first two are normal, on the third one you can see what happens. The last video just shows that there were no dropped frames on the third hdr bw video.

Used the same exposure and settings on all three starts (hdr shut down and restarted), you can see the considerable difference in exposures, have included 3 images in the zip file above to compare.

Regards - Bruce

P.S.
Forgot to mention that when the sequence change/switch occurs, the hdr enfuseGUI images generated, after the first few, (maybe 2 or 3) are out of synch, also the very first two images with 3 expos. series need to be deleted, with 2 expos. it is the first image only.

[Stan Jelavic]

Hi Bruce. Can you check if there are any dropped frames reported. Additionally, does the switch in sequence happen in the middle of the scan or at the beginning?

[Bruce Davis]

Hi Stan, my late night experience was different to testing it next day, the exposures seem to be the same, or very similar. The hdr program in general, be it 2exp or 3exp, is very temperamental, if that is the right expression or it could be the user?

The exposures can vary, the image sequence can change from light,medium,dark to medium,dark,light, this is the sequence at which images appear on screen, may be due to dropped frames because enfuseGUI image ghosting occurs. I always transfer at slowest speed and use jpg files.

This unpredictability may have something to do with the starting point of the claw, from my experience it matters.

Sometimes the program works perfectly, but with this unpredictable variability a lot of time is lost.

All this may just be due, in my case, to the double triggering required with the Sony UX178 camera.

When I have to I will continue to use the previous version without BW dated 6/7/21 (d/m/y).

Thanks Stan.