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If you plan to do the transfers for others then 12mm is easier to swap. The resolution with the 12mm and BUC02 camera is 1280x1024. Quite honestly I have not seen that much difference going with the higher resolutions unless you want to use a high quality large monitor. On my 17" laptop no difference at all.
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Stan
What do you mean by swap ?
Can I use the 12mm for R8 and S8 ?, or i have to change lens when I change format ?
I will definitly offer to my friends and relatives to do transfers for them, since I invest in such a good scanner.... I should make it available .. :-)Comment
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I am planning to install a dust remover on the machine.
I happen to have a vacuum pump, and have the idea of getting the film go thru a small case before entering the scanner...
Does it make sense to you guys ?-Comment
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Sorry for the confusion Richard. Swap is needed for higher resolutions with the 16mm lens. For that I created two camera adapter boards. One for the R8 and one for the S8. That is where the swap is needed. If you stick with the 12mm lens then there is no need for the adapter boards. One more note. In order to increase the contrast of the image we developed a mask. It is just a piece of black plastic that fits over the gate and cuts down on the white white areas around the image. We developed it for the S8 film but do not have the R8 version yet. Should not be hard to do.
Regarding you vacuum cleaner idea. I think it is a good one but not sure how effective it will be. And you will have to vacuum both sides of the film.
I clean and lubricate each roll before I scan them. For me that is the best way.Comment
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Back to the jitter issue. Remeasured the perforations using the caliper and a microscope and found out that my pixel count measurements were off. So now I get 4.5 mm perforation spacing for this S8 film. The claw pitch is exactly the same which is a problem because sometimes when the claw goes up it will actually push the film up by catching the edge of the perforation. Then it slides underneath the film and messes up that frame.
I opened up the unit and removed the end-of-travel part from the unit. The claw travel extended to 4.8 mm after that. Tested it and there is still some jitter left which seems to be normal but the big jumps are gone. Not sure if this works for the R8 film.
Here is the side by side comparison. The clip with the fix is on the right side.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/eBpBTjt3Z9swSFXX8Comment
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Stan,
This is great news, thank you for the time you have put in this wonderfull project.
In my life, I was working a lot at tuning audio tape recorders, some with 2 inch tape....
This remind me of the problem we had with those, similar to film transport.
Wow and flutter, tension control, capstan and pinch rollers.
When I heard about your idea of putting a light close to the camera to avoid pumping of the luminance, it reminded me of the bias current we were putting to the magnetic tape to excite the particles and raise the level of audio on the tape. You removed the hysteresis with adding some light to the sensor... very clever idea...
On a disc lathe for engraving records, we use on the playback tape player a second head before the actual reading head in the path, few ms ahead, and that signal was telling the lathe about the incoming signal before it happends, and commend the pitch to vary when loud sound was comming. It was called the preview head.... Maybe we could have a preview sensor for brightness to correct brightness levels in advance... we would need some kind of damping with adjustable attack and release time... just got thru my mind...
For the vacuum, the picture did not show well the setup, the film goes thru the container, and is surrounded by pressure... here is a better picComment
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Lots of interesting info Richard. i have not played with the tape recorders much but now that you mention it I can see lots of similarities especially so with the transport.
The vacuum idea looks good. Some machines use the wet gate with the lubricant.
https://filmfabriek.nl/filmfabriek-hds-scanner/
The advantage is that the wet gate will remove some blemishes and minor scratches. But if the film is in pretty good condition and you just want to remove the dust and hair then the vacuum should work out good for you.
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Oh wow.... thank's for the info !!! that machine is serious transport... The wet gate is a real neat thing.... Do you think alcohol can be bad for the film ?
Tension was the whole thing in audio magnetic recording... dampers on each side with dash pot doing the damping... direct drive motors and series of lifters to achieve rewind speed so fast without damaging the tape and being able to locate precisely any point on the tape... I miss that a lot, ... well
Tomorrow I should get the Magnasonic machine, really anxious to see what is inside, just hope it is not the old takeup reel system with belt, and no fan... i'll see...Comment
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I use filmrenew. I put some of the stuff onto a lint free cloth and then pinch the film and run it through the rewinder. Then repeat with the dry cloth. Works out quite nice. There are many other solutions out there such as filmguard etc. People tried alcohol also. Saw several reports on y...tube. I suggest to go with the solution that cleans and lubricates the film. Much safer that way and the film will last longer.
Good luck with the new machine. Hope it is a direct drive.Comment
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There is the Magnasonic :
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About the Magnasonic, it looks like, according to Hawkeye manual, to be the same as the Wolveline MovieMaker Pro, without the extension for larger reels. I did not check the camera, but it records at 1080 at 20fps.
So for a lots of money less ( 389.99$ CAD... i.e. 309$ US ) . Now, is it able to accept the Hawkeye hardware, it needs to be checked... If it looks good, I am ready to give it a try....
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Richard
Welcome, and I welcome your enthusiasm!
I like your idea for vacuuming dust. Dust is always present even after you clean the film. Filmguard is commercial grade and widely used. Finally available in only 16 oz. I use Pec.
Not cheaper, but available in 2 oz bottles! Either way you need soft pads or cloths too. Some dirt is embedded on the film and can't be vacuumed away.
I advise you not to change camera mounts. I have a non standard Hawkeye camera with a 16mm lens. The increased resolution is small, not worth the added cost for most. Without a side by side comparison, most will not notice. Moving pictures keep your attention on change more than detail. I don't need to change lens positions for S8 or R8.
Stan
Up front I want to say the Capstan function is working well. It's even advancing stuck splices. I forgot that I had reconnected the motor and was surprised while waiting for the alarm to find it continued on it's own! Note: I'm not using the sprocket, but the flat pulley with the rubber surface. I found a source for the rubber bands.
Upfront disclaimer: I fully accept the possibility that my computer is possessed by a poltergeist.
I'm struggling with HDR captures. I have not seriously used it in the past. Now I have a roll that has genuine high contrast with details in shadows and highlights.
First, a couple of things I'm not sure of.
SAVECONF and LOADCONF. The file device_state.txt shows a current date. Settings seem to be saved with different values that I have set.
The amount of change in the IncLow/DecLo setting is said to be stepping 1 stop. I see maybe twice that?
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In testing I captured a single frame at each exposure. Offset 4 stops. The settings menu shutter speed is incremented at 1/5th of a stop. Small steps, here I'm using 1/10 sec and .425 sec (4 stops). A manual capture and blend with Enfuse looks great.
When pausing during capture and opening settings, settings have changed. Maybe they are not reliable displayed after starting capture.
The IncLow/DecLo are maybe more than 1 stop. Selecting a value of 2 is closer to my expectation of 4 stops.
I was successful on the latest capture attempt. I stopped using configuration. Are the values in the txt file possibly different, say than the displayed values in the settings menu? White balance numbers are all different, but there is no visual changes when loading the config. Sometimes the settings show AUTO when that was not selected.
So, often it seems like settings change after the capture begins. I monitor the files and can see a sudden change in exposure. That is strange.
Just to recap, are numbers in the config file different than than those displayed in the menu? A different number base?
Is the INC/DEC at 1 stop or more?
Make sense? I do think the computer might have issues, but I don't know what would cause these problems.
PS I still have a 72buc and a 12mm lens. I should probably sell them?
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David , Thank you for welcoming me in this Hawkeye experience... it really interest me... and thanks for your recommendations...
As you saw I got a wolverine clone, and i'm waiting advices about the capacity to adopt the hawkeye mods.
If it works, I will need a buc02 and a 12mm lens. So maybe I can get it from you ?Comment
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Hi David, I will look at your HDR issues tomorrow. Spent the afternoon today working on the Wolverine DSLR interface. Maybe an issue with the tis api. But pretty sure we will be able to get to the bottom of it.Comment
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Ok David, believe I fixed your two issues.
For config save I used a wrong api. Used LoadShow instead of LoadFromFile. It now reflects the settings. BTW - the device config file is a text file that you can double check with any text editor.
For exposure increase and decrease I change the increment value to a decimal and set teh increment to 0.1second which matches the settings exposure increment.
Give it a try and let me know if it works ok for you.
https://github.com/vintagefilmography/hdrComment
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