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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Thank you David,
    I have to add you as a collaborator to github. Then you can update the items in the bransch.
    The amazon controller will not work standalone. It still needs the step clock.
    The new boards came in and I will send you one of them next week some time.
    Will review the rsdocs.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    Hello Stan

    I tried to use the GitHub, says I'm locked out. I will look at that again later.

    For now here is a zip of files I changed and short descriptions. I have the parts ready to mail. I thought I'd wait to see if you had something to add after you look at the .rsdocs.

    I was going to run the film thru it one last time and I found the Winait board has failed. The takeup motor still runs. There is no voltage on the board by the stepper's plug. Maybe I should just order the motor driver now. It should be able to just run the motor, I only want to have movement for now. No rush.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1euO...ew?usp=sharing


    This stepper and the suggested power supply?

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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Originally posted by David Brown View Post
    Will there be a way to adjust the motor steps, fine tuning S8 or even later 16mm (future)?
    .
    There are a few spare lines available to the MSP. Possibly add the frame alignment tuning. In order to have that the MSP has to have the flash write
    capabilities which I think it does but have not tested it yet:
    https://e2e.ti.com/support/microcont...tile-variables
    So, the idea is to use the TUNE switch to start the tuning procedure. Then use some other switch to start incrementing or decrementing the frame cadence value and then when done, use another switch to store the value. Note that in tuning mode the functionality of switches changes.
    With this implemented, it may be possible to redesign the scanner for 16 or 35 mm, or for still negatives.
    The gate definitely would have to be different plus the reel mounts. The pinch roller may not need any changes.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Thanks David, the circuit board is based on the existing Hawkeye I that is why it is a bit messy. I left the Wolverine interface intact so that the board can be used with the Wolverine power supply (which includes the stepper controller). But for those that do not have an old Wolverine for parts the board can be used with the stepper controller available on Amazon.
    I also left the USB interface if the board is to be used with the USB2 cameras.
    A camera trigger is provided and will be able to drive the DSLR type cameras.
    For now the motor steps and fine tuning is done via code changes. It may be possible to create the setup mode where the frame length can be adjusted. Will look into that.
    The new gate design that you provided looks good. I opened up a github branch where you can add your changes.
    You can do a pull request and add the changes there on that branch. You can read up on how the pull requests are done. It is pretty simple.
    https://github.com/vintagefilmograph...davids_updates

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    Hey Stan, that's a lot of progress for a "slow" start! At least it looks like a lot to me. That circuit board looks daunting!

    So Hawkeye II could stand alone from the Wolverine board? Yes, including the step controller and power supply. The camera I intend to use is a DSLR, it would still need a trigger switch. When I mentioned re-using the Winait parts I was thinking of the motors. The stepper and the takeup.

    Will there be a way to adjust the motor steps, fine tuning S8 or even later 16mm (future)?

    I have printing problems behind me now. I will check all the parts in "my" local and online directory, print & assemble them. I'll send you (or try to upload to github) the files I've changed and then send the assembled parts. I'll tag those with a _2. I think GitHub has a way of tracking changes, I don't know how to use it.

    Is this the only change (gate_bottom_alt) you've made? I'm still going thru the lists.
    Click image for larger version

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    I'd say the white rubber rollers are hands down the first choice. Easy to fit & remove. They have better traction compared to the black rubber.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Hawkeye II functionality:
    - can be used with the Wolverine power supply which includes the stepper controller
    - alternatively used with MicroStep Driver https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075HBJP51/
    - provision for AC adapter input if Wolverine power supply not used
    - uses PCB screw terminal blocks to interface with the stepper controller, switches and LED

    Switches:
    RUN - turn Hawkey II on and off
    SPEED - slow speed for HDR, fast speed for non HDR
    ALIGN - very slow stepper speed for frame alignment
    FAN - turn fan on if Wolverine power supply used
    REW - turns takeup on
    REV - reverses takeup motor rotation
    DIR - reverses stepper direction possibly used for frame alignment

    The boards are on order and I should have one boards ready for David within a few weeks.




    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Completed the controller board design. It will still support Wolverine power supply / stepper controller but alternatively an off the shelf controller can be used without any Wolverine components. Will order the PCBs within a day or so.
    Click image for larger version

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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Looks pretty impressive David. The compression spring is a good idea. The expansion spring may also work with the new gate if the gate spring pressure is set properly. Still to be seen. I am working on the new non Wolverine Hawkeye board. Will support the 12V input, same as Wolverine and actually the Wolverine AC adapter can be used with it. The only other additional component is the stepper controller.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    I could still leave the Wolverine type connector there so that the Wolverine power supply / stepper controller can be used but that one takes more time to put together and it is pretty fiddly and sometimes causes connection issues.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    Printer is back online tonight! Yesterday I fiddled with the pinch roller. Removed the tension spring and added a compression spring. These springs are right out of the box of springs from Home Depot. The plastic post it is sitting on is one of Kamel's pulley supports.

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    The spring is not mounted, just sitting on top of the rocker all the way to the right. There it has the least pressure. Using the Winait board, the motor pulls from the supply reel while I hand rewind. There is more than enough traction here. Later I added the takeup motor from the Winait. It cannot keep up with the pinch roller feed! It was just a test.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yTn...ew?usp=sharing

    I will be testing the printer next, back to the parts. I still need to flash the Msp430. I believe it already has V12, probably one before V12hdr. I was about to give it a try when I realized it will need some plugs and switches to get it to run at all. This board has no camera, but it could do the transport.

    I'm not touching my Hawkeye. It still works.

    Maybe the Non-Wolverine version you are creating would be a better setup for me. Certainly the hires stepping sounds good.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Thanks David, Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. I will slowly start with the new board design. That one will work with the new stepper controller and will have its own power supply - no Wolverine components.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    Thanks Stan, and Happy Thanksgiving!

    I will look at this, probably not tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Here is the camera trigger mod for the Hawkeye-V6 David. A small board has to be added with the camera trigger. Can put it together for you.
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    The input to the trigger board is from the MSP pin12 which is unused on the V6 board.
    The output of the trigger board is the camera trigger connector that has to be plugged into the camera.
    I assume you have the UX226 or was it the BUC02.
    The fw is posted in github.
    https://github.com/vintagefilmography/homemade-telecine

    It is in the MSP directory. The project name is:
    freq_gen_12_homemade_pinch

    After downloading and unzipping the file, you will have to use the Code Composer File->Switch Workspace to point to the new workspace.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Very nice David. The V6 version of the board can drive the stepper but it does not have the camera trigger i.e. the camera trigger is not routed through the MSP430. It is possible to solder a very fine wire to one of the unused MSP pins and add your own trigger cct and run the custom MSP FW. Will send you the details.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    I have the rollers and rods. They are smaller than they looked in the pictures!

    I planned to use the Winait power and board to power the motor. That way I can test the "strength" of the pinch and any wobble.

    The Hawkeye board I have, is Ver. 6, maybe that will work?

    I've been printing revisions, but now the printer head keeps shutting off. Tracked it to a loose wire. I just tried to print while watching the temperature. When it starts dropping, I wiggle the wire. I lost eventually!

    A new part is comming Friday or Saturday. It's a quick fix with the part in hand.

    I put the rollers on the older print and threaded some film. Snug, but the film slips when pulled. Just a small helping finger adds a little more tension and the film grabs enough to spin the motor when pulled. So a stronger spring than I used might be needed.

    I have more springs!



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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Wow that looks pretty impressive David. Great work. I have not sent you the spring. I have an assortment of them here but will need the actual assembly in order to be able to figure out which one to use.
    The rollers turned out very good in the picture that you posted. I sent you a few complete rollers and a few rubber parts. The rubber parts are flexible enough and can slip over your rollers.
    Once you get the parts you can actually run the setup with the Hawkeye board and the test FW.
    I will redesign the Hawkeye board so that it will not require any of the Wolverine components. That is the next item on my agenda.

    Leave a comment:

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