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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    This motor (or similar) can be used for the takeup. It is 12V. A clutch similar to Wolverine would have to be designed to go with it.
    https://www.amazon.com/Bringsmart-JG...dp/B078JHVJYL/

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Tested the new stepper controller and new power supply and it seems to work ok. Will have to check the frame accuracy tomorrow. There are a few settings on the controller that could impact accuracy so will play with that.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/e4yx5Twa9sygY21m9
    If it works OK will clean up the test rig and then make something close to kinograph but no raspi and raspi cam. Use MSP controller and good quality cam and lens.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    There will be two schematics. One for the V12 Hawkeye version and another for Hawkeye2.
    So, you plan to do the motor mount and the pinch arm together as one part or a few parts connected together. I assume something similar to kinograph.
    Currently, I am not using the cogwheel and the optical sensor with the pinch roller. Don't think it will give us much improvement. Most of the shake is coming from the stepper accuracy in my opinion. Going with the 256 step driver could provide some improvement but I do not think that is necessary since the deshaker does a pretty good job.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    I'll just wait for the parts list when you're done on the electrical!

    I'm still fiddling with the pinch and motor rollers. I assume you're keeping the light sensor that's attached or part of the sprocket?

    I thought about putting the motor mount and pinch roller support together. I need that file (I might already have it) for the sensor wheel, unless you think that might change.

    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Removed the Wolverine power supply from the rig and added my own 12V dc adapter and a small hardwired regulator board that interfaces with the Hawkeye board. The 12V provided to the Hawkeye 3.3V regulator is too high and causing it to heat up. So decided to go with a new regulator design.
    Click image for larger version

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    The regulator provides 5V for the Hawkeye board (will become Hawkeye2) and the 12V unregulated can be used for the stepper controller.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    You are making a good progress as well David.
    I got a set of springs here:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XKY3JM/

    Tried the new rig today and it works. The performance is about the same as with the cogged wheel.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/10Ts...ew?usp=sharing

    So, generally the setup with rubber rollers does work. The film does not slip off the rollers and the pinch force is not excessive at all.
    The test clip is an old R8 film that I bought for a few bucks to be used for testing.

    At this stage I plan swap the Wolverine stepper controller with the new controller that I got from Amazon.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075HBJP51/

    And.... that is where I am.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    Your making progress! I've got some springs somewhere. Rubber bands aren't consistent.


    My traction test. I'm still waiting for bearings. I printed placeholders that don't rotate as freely. With the real bearings, the pinch roller bolt can be tightened.

    TPU pinchroller



    PLA Motorroller (with o-rings) and pinchroller.



    Quick setup.



    Closeup video of the motor (with o-rings) and pinch.

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/19gX...ew?usp=sharing

    Small stuff todo. One of the o-rings sits a bit high. Need to widen the groove.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Finished the pinch roller assembly today.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/L3f2yMBNCQ76iVoR9
    Now as they say the proof is in the pudding.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    4 leaf clovers, not one but two, that's got to do it
    Maybe use the rollers with the flanges and then fit the rubber band over it. The flanges should prevent the bands from rolling off. Just an idea. I agree, teh rubber bands should not scratch the film unless there is a jam. Thanks for the samples offer. Appreciate that.
    I have a pretty good idea on how to fi the idler roller with the rig I have. Will need some precision cutting. It is essentially an idler arm. Will try to post a few sketches tomorrow. It is a fork type with the roller shaft press fit into it and the roller runs freely on the shaft. This is just for initial testing and for the final design we can come up with something that can be 3D printed.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    This should help!

    Click image for larger version

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    I'm having more success with printing as I go. I was able to print A TPU pinch roller. It has less traction than I'd like, less than the rubber bands I used on the Capstan for the Hawkeye.

    Maybe traction is not that important when there is pressure added? I'm going to assemble these parts and see how it goes. I have the motor from the Winait.


    I did add rubber bands onto the PLA motor roller, one on each side. Small as they are they do stretch to fit with excellent traction, but without some kind of adhesive they will fall off with use. Finding the best size would be hard.

    I'm going to try using O-rings instead. I have a large box of O-rings with several sizes.

    As long as flat rollers keep rotating, I don't think they can damage a film. Starting and stopping might scratch?

    Hope you have an old cartoon reel somewhere to be safe.

    I think I'll redo the pinch roller to use the 0-rings and see how well it pulls the film.

    If I get done before too long I'll send you test samples.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Thank you David, luck is needed here, at least some luck and a prayer or two. Another alternative to TPU is to do the roller body in PLA and then slide a rubber ring over it. Leave the flanges long enough so that the two rollers are interlocked. The disadvantage is that this contacts the film image surface.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    Sounds like you have a lot of work ahead Stan, good luck.

    Well after a lot of testing on my printer, the mother board is bad, but only the part that regulates the print bed temperature. I'm happy to find it still available and only $29! Just 6 weeks to get here with Prime!

    In the mean time I am able to use PLA as it does not require a hot printing surface. I've printed the Motor and Pinch rollers several times now and have decided to modify them. Small parts with cantilevered surfaces, means using support structures. Removing those supports is damaging the edges where the roller contacts the film. I'm going to break the motor roller into two parts and the pinch roller needs a wider hole, from 13.2 to 14mm. I ordered those bearings.

    I do have some TPU. I don't remember if it needs a heated bed. It would better used for the Pinch roller. PLA on film has NO traction, very slick.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Still busy with the roller mechanics. It is a bit challenging but will get there eventually. In the meantime received the stepper controller and here is what I plan to do with it.
    Click image for larger version

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    This removes most of the Wolverine vital components out of the picture. If the controller works out ok I will then revise the Hawkeye board and add the screw terminal there in place of the Wolverine PS connector plus the 12V plug.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Thanks for converting the parts David. In a long run I have a concern with the rubber rollers because they touch the image area of the film and could damage it. Maybe I am too paranoid but anyways that is one of my concerns.
    I noticed that Shapeways also offer TPU. Here is the description:

    A rubber-like thermoplastic elastomeric material with high flexibility and functionality.

    This looks promising because it is grooved and flexible at the same time.

    FUD - frosted ultra detail plastic used in Kinograph is not available in Shapeways online quote. Perhaps they offer it as a custom finish.
    At this point I would like to complete the rubber roller test and make sure it can sync the film frames and then perhaps try the Kinograph type rollers.
    BTW, received the 128 step stepper controller and will give it a try next week some time.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    From his list, 3D parts

    x Film Gate
    x Pi camera mount
    x Film roller on stepper motor
    x Pinch roller
    ? Film Idler rollers
    x Spool tables
    x Light box
    x Makerbeam end-stop (protects rubber band)

    Click image for larger version

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    Yes, I have Freecad installed, but have never used it. All the 3D parts are .fcstd. I was able to export to .stp. I tried to print gate #3 from the .stl. It is 2 parts that are connected so it was nice to be able to separate those in Fusion and create 2 .stls.

    My printer has been parked for several weeks. It was running great. So the print started, then had problems after several minutes. The displayed bed temp was 235deg C. just a little too warm, but cold to the touch. Checked the thermistor and it's ok. The bed's plug has a bad reputation, so tomorrow I'm going to cut off the plug and solder the connections. Hope that's the problem.

    I'll post the .stps so no one else needs to install Freecad. They can be inspected with Window's 3dviewer as can .stls.

    motor pinch-roller.zip

    I'm guessing you want the Pinch & Motor roller, maybe others printed or modified?

    Still I would feel better about a rubber roller as one of the two parts pinching.

    I have only experience with these filaments:
    PLA Very easy to work with. Low impact but high tensile strength. Vulnerable to sunlight and heat.
    PetG More difficult to dial in printer settings. Heat resistant, stronger than ABS with no toxic vapors.
    TPU Flexible, no impact breakage. More traction than PLA or PetG.

    For a textured surface, I have used wood fiber embedded PLA. Prints feel a bit rough like fine sandpaper.

    But how strong do these parts need to be?

    The surface texture could be achieved by coating with any paint mixed with sand. Or with "Flex Seal" or "Plasti Dip" for a rubberized surface.

    Just a thought.

    Leave a comment:

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