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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Have not spent much time on 35mm. Just got the film formats working today after quite a bit of debugging. Run the CCS debug with the launchpad and replaced the gpio inputs with variables that i can change in the debugger and setting the breakpoints. Worked quite nice and helped me a lot. The flash memory also gets displayed in the memory window showing the values written into flash.
    Currently the FW supports 4 modes. So yes, the 35mm spacing is also supported.
    If there are boards out there with the stepper then the board could be adapted to that.
    Will prepare the board for you with the control panel and the switches.
    Forgot to add the S8/R8 switch so the boar has some rework for that, pretty simple mod.

    Wanted to mention that the tuning is a bit tricky because of film shrinking and stretching. So you have to run it for a while and observe the trend and slowly tweak it with the UP and DOWN buttons. Some old R8 film that I had gave me a hard time. The S8 few films that I tried are much better and can run for a long time in sync. So, definitely this machine is not for people that just want to set it up and let it run unattended. It is quite a bit of work The results look great though and are worth the trouble in my opinion.

    Forgot to mention, planning to run your 16mm reel tomorrow Davis.

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  • David Brown
    replied
    I don't know how to physically add 35 to the HawkeyeII using the existing gate and pinch. I have been looking at some 35mm film holders, some motorised. I thought about adding a second step motor and just swaping the plugs. If the current FW can add more spacings, the existing reel posts might work with adapters. Just a thought.

    Still there is the possibility that framing from different cameras will never be exact.

    I'll post links to these projects. One had a motor/manual advance that was very fast. 1 button advanced the frame and the operator could hand adjust before capturing with the second button.

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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Nice work David. The machine would have to be redesigned for 35mm. I am running the S8 tests. Will try the regular 8 next. Have some really crappy R8 footage but that is ok for testing. Will switch to 16mm after that.
    I ended up using your heavier spring for the idler and that work perfectly. The frame alignment is better and there is no interference from the takeup.
    Just a note, the Magic Lantern silent mode capture is very slow. They show all kinds of stats after the image capture that takes several seconds. Not sure if all of that can be disabled. Will check on their forum.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    Just so you don't feel like your doing all the testing, I have the 35mm splicer almost done. I've had trouble with the pin spacing. Spent a lot of time trying to adjust the printer, tried scaling (that does not work!!!). The 3D prints do match the 3D dimensions. Tonight I found that the pin pitch I'm using is wrong, just a little.

    Print film uses motion picture film, but is always long pitch. Every where I see 0.1870" pitch spacing. It's also conviently shown as 4.75mm. That is rounded up, it should be 4.7498mm. It's too small to measure the last offset, easy to see the last pin is a little long. Might work.

    Bought some 35 negs from Ebay for $3 & free shipping. Should be here in a day or two. Mine are complaining.

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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Used the horizontal mount because the camera is pretty heavy and hard to slide up and down vertically. The heatsink is actually 0.1 Ohm high power resistors which I could use to cut the voltage down to the LED because it is close to the max. Will see if this LED holds up without the voltage drop. Partially tested different film formats and it seems to work OK but will have to do more testing.
    The current spring on the idler arm seems to be too weak and the takeup messes up the frame alignment. Will try stronger spring.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    It sounds simple enough to operate. The horizontal layout is nostalgic, reminds me of a tape recorder!

    I thought the orange block might be the heat sink for the led. Just something you had on hand?

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Thank you David,
    The LED chip is not connected in the picture. It goes to the bottom right of the controller board close to the DC adapter plug. It does not have a connector at this point but will figure something out to make the disassembly a bit easier.
    I modified the FW for 4 film formats.
    The formats can be whatever the user choses since each one has its own tuning.
    The FW selects the format at power up. It checks the status of the REW and S8/R8 switches to create 4 format combinations.
    The format cannot be changed while the board is powered up. You have to power the board down, set the switches and then back up.
    After that the S8/R8 switch does not have any effect and the rewind switch can be used as a rewind if run sw off and as a tuning control if the run sw is on.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    Great pictures. I've been starring at them for 15 minutes!

    It's exciting to be able to see everything so clearly.

    Good luck on the testing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Assembled your 3D parts David.
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    Will test it tomorrow. The unit is now capable of R8,S8 and 16mm scan. For 16 mm the 16mm gate has to be swapped for the 8mm and the reel posts have to be changed to 16mm, a simple mod.

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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    That could be an issue and frequent adjustments may have to be made during scanning. Will check my negatives.

    Leave a comment:


  • David Brown
    replied
    That is interesting. The reel hubs were at first too tight on my machine, so I opened them up a little. I left it just a little snug so it could not fall off by gravity.

    Another fit problem is in the negative splicer. The original designer left a slot to cut the 35mm film, inside a 2mm margin between the 36x24 frames is where the cut should be.

    I thought he was cutting movie film and that's why the margin did not line up with the cutting slot. I grabbed a couple of negative envelopes to see where the cut should fall relative to the perforations. It was just a little off-center. After so much measuring and printing, I searched online for picures of 35mm negatives. There are only half a dozen out there, but they all have the margin centered between the perfs.

    So I dug up more of my negatives, and the margin is centered sometimes. Looks like it varies by camera.

    Click image for larger version

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    I do have a solution, but more on the splicer later.

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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Thank you for the 3D parts David. Tried them today and here are some observations:
    - The bolts for the roller pulleys are too short in my installation. Will stop by Home Depot tomorrow to see if they have longer bolts.
    - In my installation the reel assembly sits too high and will require shortening of the mounting hardware. Not a big deal but wanted to mention it.
    - The reel hub is a bit tight and requires some force to snap it onto the existing spindle. It is still workable however.
    Other that that everything else seems to be ok.
    Will provide an update tomorrow.


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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Received your package David. Will look at it tomorrow.
    Got the firmware finally working for a single format. Will do more testing tomorrow to make sure it is solid and then try to add other formats.
    The LED chip that I used crapped out on me. It started flickering like a lightbulb that is about ready to burn out. Luckily, the package contains 10 of them. Hopefully the replacement will last longer. Maybe the substrate overheated at one point before I added a heftier heatsink, not sure but will keep an eye on it (no pun intended).
    Forgot to mention, tested the Wolverine DC adapter and seems to work OK.
    Last edited by Stan Jelavic; February 04, 2022, 09:36 PM.

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  • Stan Jelavic
    replied
    Yes, and I have lots of envelopes so will still need the splicing jig.

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  • David Brown
    replied
    I found a 35mm editing block with pins on Thingyverse. The designer built it to edit motion picture film. I have modified it and tried to find a way to build it to keep the frame spacing when I realised I have been using random strips. With some exceptions, I have negatives in their original envelopes that also held the prints.

    There should be no need to measure spacing if the strips are reassembled by the frame numbers. Wished I thought of that earlier!!!

    Of'course spacing will matter when joining different envelopes.

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