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DIY real-time 8mm/S8mm telecine system sample footage

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  • #31
    The left is modded Wolverine. The modded Wolverine is sharper based on the test I have done here. The camcoder colors are nicer. Both solutions are pretty decent.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Onnie
      I had an LED auto tail-light bulb left over from when I swapped out the bulbs in my car, and I had an old tail-light socket in my junk box, so I thought, "Let's try putting this old LED tail-light bulb in a socket, connect it to a 12v DC power supply, and see how it works."
      @Onnie, could you please advise what wattage your tail light is? I'm trying to mod a Eumig 820 for an LED solution but don't have much room, and can't estimate what wattage I need.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by Alwyn Adkins View Post
        @Onnie, could you please advise what wattage your tail light is? I'm trying to mod a Eumig 820 for an LED solution but don't have much room, and can't estimate what wattage I need.
        Please allow me to chime in.😁
        You really don't need that much of light for real-time telecine setup. Unless you're using vidicon tube camera most 1-3W LED light source would be enough. The one I'm currently using is Philips 5W ones - and it's already way, way overkill.😳 I actually have to find the way to attenuate its light output instead.
        For best result try those small LED panel with some dimmer in-between, so you can dial in the optimal brightness for your need.

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        • #34
          @Nantawat, thanks very much. I'll have a look for something around that rating.

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          • #35
            Originally posted by Stan Jelavic View Post
            A few pics.
            Click image for larger version

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            Hey Stan, I just got the mouser 50mm lens. I'm looking at the pictures to try and figure out how you are attaching it to the Sankyo 1000 Dualux. What is that black cylindrical piece that is receiving the new lens ? And how are you attaching it?

            Thanks,

            Kim

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            • #36
              Originally posted by Kim Trampus View Post
              What is that black cylindrical piece that is receiving the new lens ? And how are you attaching it?

              Thanks,

              Kim
              That's probably the 3D printed lens mount, as the original mount diameter is pretty small (27mm-ish something) and won't accept those 16mm projector lens.

              Click image for larger version

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              Although different in design but this is what I've done to my Sankyo also. And oh boy it barely fits - you'd have literally no clearance left after installing this lens mount.😳

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              • #37
                I can print it out for you Kim if you cover the shipping costs.
                Or you can print your own
                https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...pF?usp=sharing
                Pull out on the focus knob and slide the old lens out.
                Strip the new lens from the outer shell all the way down to the barebone lens assembly.
                Remove the old lens mount and using the same screws mount the two L shaped supports (3D printed parts).
                Then glue the cylinder to them using the PVC cement.
                Click image for larger version

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                • #38
                  Thank you Stan, I will be happy to pay for shipping. I can inbox you with my address and zip. For now I was excited to finally have all the components necessary to do high quality transfers. So what I did last night was to gaffer tape the lens to the camera and stick that to a small sizzor jack and then to get critical focus I ran the camera's HDMI to a large lcd tv. I found that the remote control to my Wedding Videography Panasonic AG-AC160 works with the little brother Panasonic HDC-HS9 using the remote to focus is much easier than using the joy pad on the camcorder. I will be posting some links to my 8mm and super 8 film transfers.

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                  • #39
                    My Results with the new 50mm Rasberry Pi Camera Lens and Sankyo 1000 Dualux Setup. Stan knows what he is talking about. Ditch the 16mm lens.
                    I'm very pleased so far. No more barrel distortion on the edges that I was getting with the 16mm movie projector lens.
                    The colors really pop on the old Kodachrome 40. And I did not add any color correction, contrast or sharpening in Final Cut I simply flipped the image, cropped and centered the frame. These are some films that I shot years many years ago.

                    Super 8 Kodachrome 40 Canon 514XLS https://youtu.be/9jREevSRs3s

                    Super 8 Kodachrome 40 Canon 514XLS https://youtu.be/k8dJ6vPNA5A

                    Regular 8 Kodachrome 40 Yashica Camera https://youtu.be/KtkYc-HDn8I

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                    • #40
                      Very nice work Kim. Congratulations. I will try to get the prints done tomorrow.

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                      • #41
                        What do you guys think about the Panasonic HDC-SD1? I read that it has larger CCD Chips 1/4" as opposed to the Panasonic HDC-SD9 with it's 1/6" chips.
                        I wonder if I'd get a slightly better image with the older HDC-SD1?

                        https://www.trustedreviews.com/revie...n-sd-camcorder

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                        • #42
                          That Panasonic HDC-SD9, although with smaller sensors, but it's also with higher pixel count & bit rate in the final output. It also supports progressive scan mode too. Low light capability should be of no concern here, as we'll have plenty of light to work with.

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                          • #43
                            Stan, did that macro slider just happen to be the exact height needed to meet the lens?

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                            • #44
                              Hi Bill, it is designed to fit the RPI lens. The lens has to be stripped down in order to fit.

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                              • #45
                                The slider height cannot be adjusted but it is within range of the projector front height anjuster.

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