Wolverine-Hawkeye Telecine

[Stan Jelavic]

V8 board done.
New USB interconnect
Better Frame sync
Capstan connections all in one corner
Power LED connections

[Stan Jelavic]

Duplicate message removed.

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Ah! well, very good news. I look forward to the reference diagram of this very promising V8 PCB ...
Thank you very much Stan for all these good ideas and this accomplished and shared work.
it's really awesome and very nice of you.

[Stan Jelavic]

Thank you Kamel. Here is the design:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mh...agoA4sJ0e_Gm09

I will order qty 5 V8 boards for testing.

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Thanks Stan,
This allows to have a correct reference.
It is very generous of you to share your work (and I am well aware of the time it takes).
So thank you very much for that.

BTW : When you can, is it possible to post the code to reprogram the MSP ? (new scan capture speeds).
I do not yet master this workflow enough to do it myself !
.

[Stan Jelavic]

I will reprogram the MSP once I get the V8 working Kamel.

[David Brown]

Hello Stan!

I hope you're enjoying your Holiday Season. I'm glad you were able to get back to HW, if it's more fun than color wrangling!

Yes, it's for a DSLR (your question from days ago). I have hotwired a wireless remote for my microscope camera and built a wired shutter release for a Sony.

When you explained the problem with a high voltage triac, I looked at the https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/389/bta16-954517.pdf

It looks like it would need more parts to function. I have not had enough contiguous time to pursue that answer.

So I ordered a 3v physical relay.

The good news is that it works with the voltage off the board, 3.3V, and fires both cameras.

The bad news is that it will not trip with the trigger circuit. I have a bad feeling when I think back to the trigger signal on your scope. Not much duration there.

Just to make sure, this is what I used for the wiring. I have a V6 board, but used this image.



I can't detect any voltage (needed to power the coil) with each claw cycle either because it not wired correctly, or it's too fast to measure.

I did manually capture 60 frames by hand. I can single frame advance the Hawkey, then press the camera's capture button.

I only had 5 bad frames out of 60 where I was late to press one button or the other, it's not sustainable!

I'm close to just buying the DFM 72BUC02-ML!

I found DFM 27UJ003-ML and it is 4K! $199, but has no trigger circuit %$#&*

Well all this, but there is only one question.

Did I wire the relay wrong?

[Kamel Ikhlef]

OK, thank you very much Stan,
I will wait patiently, no problem.
I still haven't finished the 3D design of the plastic front panel.
There is still a lot of work. I will not get bored!

[Stan Jelavic]

David, the wiring is correct but be careful not to burn out the opto-coupler. The coupler may not have enough drive capability to drive the relay.
Should use something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Modul...475238&sr=8-18

You can test the trigger output by connecting a 10k resistor from the trigger output to 3.3V. Then pulse the run switch and observe the voltage on the trigger output. Once the claw reaches the gate the output should go high. Then keep advancing the claw and the output should switch low when the claw starts moving to the right.
If this works then you are good. The old fashioned relay is not good because the coil transients can could damage the output transistor or the current can be excessive.

[Jerry Davisson]

Hey folks! First post on this board but NOT the first read. My wife and I have multiple 8mm & Super8s we wished to digitize and were woefully afraid to "drop them off" at any service so after a few years of research, decided to invest in a Wolverine. Our experience was pretty non-typical, but after some mechanics...we are absolutely pleased with the results.
The pkg (Amazon) arrived a year ago but was pretty banged up...the machine was well cushioned so we thought nothing of it. This Christmas we finally got around to setting it up. It was easy enough, but it refused to pull the films through more than a few feet...a repeat clicking sound was heard and all our attempts to get it to continue failed. We considered the post where the film was a tad too wide for the slide mechanism, checked the winding of the film, rebooted, etc.
Since we'd had it a year we figured no warranty would work so we opened it up. The main drive gear coming off the motor was pretty dry and the eccentric it works on to move the film was as well. A big glob of nice grease was in the housing so we removed the gears...ensured there was a spacer washer between the gear and the gear mount plate, lubed everything up (including the motor itself with some silicone) and ran it on fast forward about 5-10 minutes. The more it ran, the smoother it sounded (like breaking in a car).
We reassembled it and have digitized about 250' of films so far and the machine is working absolutely perfectly. Very happy and well worth the hour and a half we spent troubleshooting, lubing, and breaking it in.

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Stan,
I try to understand your V8 schematic. a connexion for +12v and ground are on the same resistor. is it normal ? (Sorry for beginner questions !)

[Stan Jelavic]

That is the bootstrap circuit Kamel. The word came from the saying where you levitate yourself by pulling on your boot laces (straps).
It is obviously impossible but in electronics there are circuits that do similar things..
The 5V is supplied by the power supply. But you have to tell the supply to provide it by grounding one of the pins. But since the 5V is not there on power up, the 3,3V is not there either
because it is derived from 5V. So now since the 3.3V is not there the MSP is dead and cannot turn on the 5V from the supply - so we have a catch 22 situation.
So, I came up with this little bootstrap cct. The 12V is there on power up. I used a resistor divider to provide around 3V to the regulator. This wakes up the MSP and the MSP turns on the 5V.
The regulator gets the 5V and the bootstrap gets turned off because the diode gets reverse biased.
Hope this helps.

[Stan Jelavic]

Have some exciting news to share. Managed to create a plugin for Fred's script that does the color phase change. Based it on autolevels plugin since that one has most of the elements that I needed. Compiled it with Visual Studio Community 2019 (free version) without too many problems. One issue was with the hash table that got depreciated and another issue with the tlog that was caused by the path being too long.
Still testing it. Here is one of the test cases where the blue color is detected and then turned off i.e. blue channel set to 0. This confirms that the color can be detected specifying the phase range. The next step is color shift. Pretty exciting.

[Kamel Ikhlef]

How to thank you Stan, for these explanations and all your advice?
I understand better now, I still have a lot to learn!
Yes working on colorimetry must be really exciting!

[David Brown]

Well, Stan, I'm excited about your color success!

I'm going look at that later. I'm all for getting exposure and color balance set before any post work. It will be invaluable to all those who don't want to do any post work after capture.

Next, I will test my optocoupler. I don't know what that is, but hope I didn't fry it.

When I was in junior high school, I knew the resistor colors and could easily read the values. What happened? Yipes stripes!! At least I can just read the package or grab the multimeter. Happy to find that I already have a 10k resistor. Actually I have 100 10ks in my Hawkey parts box.

Jerry, welcome to the forum. It great to hear you could repair your Wolverine and are happy with your scans!