Wolverine-Hawkeye Telecine

[Stan Jelavic]

It is correct David. Added the test point on R2 and R3 that you can check.

[Stan Jelavic]

The frame sync mod seems to work OK. Runs at 2FPS and no smeared frames. Have an issue with a flaky connection somewhere though. When all screws are tight it becomes flaky. Possibly a short somewhere, Will check it tomorrow.

[Bruce Davis]

Hi Stan 2fps that's good news, wondering if it would be possible to have the take up motor run in reverse for rewind. This would allow rewind of reels with the film traveling over the top of the Wolv/Hawk, as it is with the film rewinding below it always rubs against the camera lens.
Unless I have missed something and there is a better way to do this.
regards - bruce

[Stan Jelavic]

It may be possible to add the switch to reverse the polarity to the motor. It is a dc motor and do not see any reasons why it would not run in reverse. I assume the clutch can also operate in reverse for film protection.
Actually, that is a very good idea. Will try it.

[David Brown]

STAN, BRUCE Let's be glad this isn't a Corporate project!! Some of the best ideas come late in the game. Even features are sometimes dropped to hit deadlines. Not the Hawkeye!

That is a very useful idea!

[Stan Jelavic]

Yes indeed, no deadlines here. Have a few things to report. No, have not tried the reverse rewind not yet.
But, found the short. It is the trigger trace getting too close to the mounting hole on the board solder side.

The mounting post under the board has a sharp ridge on it and I routed the traces too close. Putting a small piece of scotch tape
fixed the issue but now I have to check all of the holes to make sure the traces are clear and then incorporate the new sync and we
will have V11 version
The new sync works very nice and ran a few hundred feet this afternoon at 2FPS and got beautiful clean images. Pretty happy with that.

On another front, received a bunch of capstan printed parts


and they look good except for the capstan sprocket gear. It is a bit loose.


The rectangular post(gray) is narrower than Kamel's (white). Will have to check the STL file.
The sprocket part is OK.
I am sure Kamel will comment here.

The pulley support stl shows the post width of 8.75mm which is 0.344"


The support that I purchased measures 0.344" but Kamel's support is 0.36". Yet, Kamel's support fits better?


Will wait for Kamel's comment.

[Bruce Davis]

Hi Stan, np about testing out reversing rewind, whenever you have time is fine, appreciate you doing this, it would be great if it works.

Re the printed parts, I measured both stl files in Inventor, the "Back_Toothed_Pulley_S8_Capstan_v29" and "Toothed_Pulley_S8_Capstan_v28" there seems to be almost 30 thou (0.02953") clearance / difference between the two (8.75mm and 9.5mm). Depending on how accurately a 3D printer prints, would determine the clearance between the two parts. Home 3D printers are usually not that accurate, where high quality commercial printers will print on size.

When printing parts with tight tolerances on a home 3D printer it usually takes some experimenting to get the right fit of the parts. With experience one gets to know ones printer and can compensate without too much fuss. On my printer if I wish a hole to be for example 3 or 5mm dia I need to make the drawn size 3.3 or 5.3mm dia for the holes to end up the correct size.
Regards Bruce

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Stan, Bruce,
You touched one of the big problems of the joys of domestic 3D printing!
Indeed, depending on the plastic filaments used, the retraction can be very important (ABS, PETG ...).
I adjusted according to the filament materials retraction tests i have used.
I used a very resistant material because of the pinion teeth (Verbatim DURABIO) strong but a lot of retraction.
Indeed, in the case of different plastics and more or less precise 3D printer, it is necessary to readjust.

some filaments are very precise and others less.Difficult to predict in advance.
I can redo the 3D design. In general I leave a margin of 0.125 to 0.25mm margin for the retraction of plastic.
As the parts are very small, it is less obvious. In some cases, I leave the measurement of the exact dimensions.

Stan, the printer that was used seems to be very precise.
I don't know which printer and filament was used but it looks very good.
If the precision is close to the dimensions of the stl model. I will have to redesign with less margins.

Paradoxically, with this filament (DURABIO) some parts were printed larger !?!...
Because of the packing of the layers which widen at the deposit of the filament layer by layer (crushing effect).
Perhaps it would have been necessary to cool a little more and increase the ventilation between layers,
with a greater risk of interlayer detachment. I remember doing a lot of tests to get the best accuracy.
Home 3D printers have their limits.

For me, it works but in this case, maybe I actually left a little too much margin for others filaments!
My printer is a Wanhao D6 plus Mark II (Zortrax M200 clone).
Closed Printer for technical filaments ( ABS, Polycarbonate,...).
I choose this printer because it is able to print all filaments and it's one of the best value for money.

BTW: I hope the holes for the brass inserts are corrects (curved pulleys and their supports) ?
The hole for the capstan motor axis to verify,too...

[Stan Jelavic]

Thanks Bruce and Kamel. Receiving the inserts today and will check if they fit OK. I also have one motor and will try the shaft fit. The material is ABS. Forgot to order curved pulleys but will try with Kamel's for now.

Here are test results:
- The new large pulley supports are the same diameter as Kame's. They are a bit lose but that should not be a problem.
- The S8 capstan sprockets do not align perfectly with the film. 4 teeth engage with the holes but the rest do not. It will still work if the capstan is next to the gate. Would not work well in the alternative location. I never ordered the R8 and do not have any R8 film to test.
- The fit on the motor shaft is a bit loose which could cause some wobble.

We will have to wait for Kamel to get the dims revised for professional printers before ordering. I ordered my parts from Printathing.com

[Stan Jelavic]

Put together Hawkeye firmware flow chart.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12i...ykWFZk5ETChuL-

[Bruce Davis]

Hi Stan and Kamel, Stan the service you used Printathing.com, looks like a service where anyone who has a 3D printer and wants to earn some money can sign up with them (I may be wrong but I would not consider this a professional service), so you never know what make of printer or the experience of the operator. When submitting your items for printing, registered makers have the opportunity to quote on your job, you have the option to select who you wish to make your items (for most people its price) unless you have had past history with any of these operators your just guessing.

I do feel that Kamel's tolerances / clearance for such small items are too much (but obviously are correct for his printer and material), the items you received may be dimensionally correct and therefore the problem you are having. It is difficult to see on your photos but when I zoom in on the "Toothed_Pulley_S8_Capstan_v28" the teeth lack quality (such fine detail is difficult to achieve in FFF printing).

The teeth not meshing with more than 4 teeth could be due to the lack of printed tooth quality or a difference in diameter between Kamel's printed item (which I assume is larger in diameter) and the ones you received from Printathing.

Copied from google search:-
FDM is an industrial grade technology whereas FFF is a desktop, hobbyist level 3D Printing technology. FDM caters to part applications requiring high quality, engineering-grade prototypes that can withstand mechanical loads.

Regards - Bruce

[Stan Jelavic]

Thanks Bruce for the comments. I do not have much experience with 3D printing so definitely very helpful to hear from you and Kamel. I took the toothed pulley under the microscope and this is what I see.
Kamel's part - looks ggod.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bppGqzh1WSHwsDDH7
printathng part. The teeth are not uniform and distorted.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kvFgcMpGotgraTga7

I ordered some FDM parts from Treatstock. Even cheaper than Pintathing. Will see what they look like.

The other point that you mentioned is that the current design is suitable for Kamel's printer but not for online orders. Hope that Kamel will be kind enough to redesign the parts.

For Kamel:
I tried the inserts and the 3x3mm are loose. The hole is too wide.

Also it is hard to figure out what inserts to use from your previous post:

BTW: For the small brass inserts, I use those for plastic hot pose. : http://eshop-simaf.com/fr/42-insert-pose-a-chaud?p=2
or Kit on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/s?k=brass+ins...f=nb_sb_noss_1

Looks like these will work for M3 mounts (once the hole is fixed):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure what insert to get for the shaft lockscrew. The screw is 2mm. All 2M inserts that is got from amazon are too wide:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Hello everybody,
Sorry for the inconvenience. I think the best thing for such small parts would be resin 3D (SLA/DLP) printing.
Actually, prices have become very affordable. The results obtained are impressive. some use it for jewelry.
(see images below)... But I have not yet experienced this type of printer.

Here are the links of the brass inserts used.

M2x2 axis motor : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Stainl...08G4C2X7601270

M2x3 : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/a16041800ux07...CMF606RJ9YQYDJ

M3x4 : Your links are good.

I also found small lockable buttons that could be an alternative to the more bulky toggle switches :
Mini Latching Buttons : https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B07F3TZBB5/ref=dp_prsubs_1

BTW :
Thank you Stan for the firmware flow chart, it helps a lot for the system comprehension.
Of course, I will redo the design with less tolerances based on your comments.
I will post as soon as finished.

[Bruce Davis]

Hi Stan and Kamel, Stan the picture of your printed part from Printathing shows that the first layer was squished too much, in other words the nozzle was too close to the bed. This approach helps parts to better stick to the bed but causes the first layer to spread the filament wider so one ends up with a lip or flange type effect.
Extra squish may some times be necessary for large parts and is also dependent on material used, but for these tiny parts that is not required. The prints should have turned out much better.

Just for interest I printed a "Toothed_Pulley_S8_Capstan_v28" and checked that the sizes were correct, when I attempted to wrap a piece of super 8 film around it, only about 4 holes slipped over the teeth (my prints are about the same quality as Kamel's), it appears to me as though the center distances of the teeth are too far apart. On my Hawkeye that is not a problem because only four teeth engage at any one time.

If you use a professional service they will print the parts to the correct size, so if Kamel changes the dimensions (not making allowances for his particular printer) things should work out.

Regards - Bruce

[Kamel Ikhlef]

I have checked the 3D file sizes for thoothed pulley. It's correct. For me it works.
I will checked all files tonight.