Wolverine-Hawkeye Telecine

[Stan Jelavic]

Here is the updated speed switch interconnect diagram. The previous one has two pins swapped. Sorry Kamel.


I went with version V10 of the board since I made a few small changes to the V9 (usb double connector mount).
V9 was just an intermediate step to V10.
Here are the design files:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gF...cl-GkMuLsEzJF6

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Wow! V10 (time flies!). Thank you very much Stan.
No problem for the reversal of the pins, I was precisely stuck with the design of the "speed" connector.
I do not know how to connect the transistor ? (see image). is this correct with the V10 modifications ?
Another beginner question (can I connect a vac 120v slide switch on 3.3v dc).
the switch I chose is ref: 1825161-1 (300mA) at mouser. : https://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/...%252B11bsZw%3D


I will post the final version of the design as soon as possible.
Thanks for the help.

[Stan Jelavic]

Here is the updated diagram Kamel.

For LEDs I would use double pole triple throw:
https://rabbitrobots.com/index.php?r...&product_id=82

[Stan Jelavic]

Order update:
I see a few people requesting complete units. Please double check. Do you want me to get a used unit and then retrofit it with the complete Hawkeye kit?
I already know for Merv and I am working on his unit.
I just put a capstan 3D parts order. Took me a while. There are lots of parts there that are not needed.
Total cost for all 3D printed parts $17. Not bad.
Also ordered the inserts and set screws.
The capstan supports both R8 and S8 but the pulleys have to be swapped. Thanks to Kamel for his hard work.

[David Brown]

Below I describe the process, but the bottom-line is I am recommending the "paper gate" method to control any jitter.

However, I wonder if anyone has noticed the snapping sound when the claw drops and releases the film? If that is just my machine?

I think I must have older software and or driver as all the options and menus in the Hawkeye manual are not there. I'll reinstall it all this weekend.

Another question. Has anyone seen this error? It might just be part of the software I'm running. This happens at resolutions above 1920x1080.

Stan I remember discussions about centering the lens on the film frame, but have only been able to find a reference to that for board V3 or maybe the one after that. How is that positioning done? There is room to move the whole camera and lens some, but isn't it locked to the 4 mounting holes on the Hawkeye board?

Sounds like your done, fingers crossed, turning your attention now to orders!



****************
I'm reassembling my Hawkeye in anticipation of a stable version! Before I started, I wanted to adjust the gate pressure. The pressure plates are spring loaded. I wondered how turning the screw could adjust the pressure? The springs must lose some force in a more compressed state. To gage this, I checked how much force it takes to move the film with the gate closed.

130 grams to move the film. That is for gravity to pull the film with a weighted clamp on the film. After several tiny adjustments I reached 1 clockwise revolution and only needed 67 grams.

After a couple of days, I re-tested to verify. It's not consistent. Turning the screw farther I found there was only "5 minutes" of rotation before the screw bottomed out and the weight changed. I don't know why. i was using the same film. There might be different resistance with the emulsion side up or down.

I'm thinking the best method here is the folded paper in the gate as Stan demonstrated. Easy to do and quickly changed. There is something about the gate that changes the friction and there will be films that are tighter, like sound film.

What I noticed is the loudness of snapping sound that the claw makes is a clue to how much tension there is on the film. When the claw descends, it is pressed hard against the perforation until it clears. It's the film making that sound. If the claw was tapered and a bit longer, this snapping would not happen.

Too little pressure on the film might allow it to move back, pulled from the resistance of the supply reel or forward from the pull of the take-up reel. Maybe both?

I'm also going to replace the original spring in the takeup hub, or the capstan will not work well.

[Stan Jelavic]

Hi Dave, yes I definitely hear the clicking sound but not always. Using the paper in the gate seems to soften the sound. I have not investigated the issue but thought that it was the claw being held for a bit while the cam is rotating down so that there is a gap between the cam and the claw. When the claw manages to dislodge from the film it would snap down against the cam since it is spring loaded. Just my guess.

Looks like you have a wrong driver:
https://theimagingsource.deskpro.com...re-are-no-imag

I also got that error when I miss-wired the usb.

For centering of the film use Ic Measure sw that can be downloaded from Imagingsource. The mounting holes have some play allowing for centering. It should be pretty close but it is not crucial because there is enough margin around the borders.

I am pretty much done with the design changes for now but will be available going forward to do any enhancements such as HD etc.

I am currently looking at getting the boards assembled here in the Good Old USA. Working on the costing part tonight. Hopefully will be able to cut the cost down.

[David Brown]

That's great Stan, some change of pace! I found the volume of the snap sound is related to the gate pressure. The folded paper relieves that pressure like tightening the gate screws. There is a slight deformation of the film where the claw is pushing on the perforation. The film snaps back as the claw drops. Glad to hear it's not just mine!

I had slightly older IC software. Uninstalled everything and reinstalled. There was a change to the menus but the error still persists. I'll look at that link tomorrow. Thanks

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Stan,
Thanks for the corrected Speed connector diagram.
I will try to find an alternative for a slide switch to solder on a pcb (DP3T on-on-on model) at mouser.

[Stan Jelavic]

David, I had that issue with delivering images and I think it was my usb connection when I tried to extend the connector to the back of the board but now not sure. Will let you know if I recall what the issue was.
Kamel, the LEDs are really not necessary since the switch tells you what mode you are in.
Did the costing for the board assembly in the factory and the total cost for the kit came around $130, so no savings. Included is $20 for packaging, wiring up switches and test.
The kit includes the assembled board, front panel, switches and the cam mount hardware (spacers and screws).

The capstan is not included. The cost is: $30 material + $10 for installing capstan insert and handling.
But it would make sense if you do your own. Could save $10.

The domestic shipping costs are around $4

Europe $16.

All preliminary estimates.

I can share the calc sheet if anyone interested.

[David Brown]

Stan, are these costs based on a one off or volume?

Is it now safe to order the V10 board and parts? Does Eagle.zip and freq_gen have a BOM? Should I wait?!

I have now tried various drivers, software, and computers! I'm pretty sure I have the right stuff. What is still missing is not fatal. The 2 highest resolutions are the ones not passing an image. The docs suggest the driver could be involved. I've contacted OEMcameras and will wait to hear back. Just for fun, this was the email.

The camera is working in all resolutions except these two: 2560x1920 & 2592x1944.
In these formats by8, rgb24&32, & y800. All other resolutions work. I'm only interested in images.
Here is the error message:
The device 'DFM 72BUC02-ML (2020805)' is in live mode, but does not see to deliver images.
Please try to chose a different video format or try reconnecting your device to your computer.
I have also tried different connectors. Perhaps the driver does not support these?
Windows 10 pro, version 10.0.17763 build 17763. I am at work, this same issue occurs at home.

[Stan Jelavic]

The costs are based on qty 20. For smaller qty the fab is too expensive. Here is the costing spreadsheet:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NT...v-lM1af948TF-6

You can use it to buy parts. I think it is pretty safe to do that.

Hope you get answers from OEM Cameras. They are actually pretty good in that respect.

One more thought. I know lots of you guys are pretty handy at putting the stuff together. So, if interested I can get the pre fab done on difficult parts and then you solder the easy components and test the board and save $$$. Look at the costing spreadsheet and work it out the best way it suits you.

[Stan Jelavic]

There is lots of good info in the forum archive. I collected a bunch of links of useful tools and applications. Most of these are free:

Nick's Telecine for video capture:
http://www.nightshade-arts.co.uk/telecine/index.html

IC Capture - to capture images:
https://www.theimagingsource.com/sup...are/iccapture/

IC Measure - to center the camera:
https://www.theimagingsource.com/sup...are/icmeasure/

Avi Synth - good infor on scripting:
http://avisynth.nl/index.php/Main_Page

VirtualDub:
https://sourceforge.net/projects/vdf.../version%2020/

VideoFred:
https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=144271


Rewinders:
https://shop.van-eck.net/

Renamer:
https://antp.be/software/renamer

Optical Design:
http://www.optics-online.com/

3D design:
https://www.rs-online.com/designspar...d-installation

Film9:
https://contact41766.wixsite.com/film9/home-1


Photo Editor:
http://www.photoscape.org/ps/main/index.php

Eagle PCB:
https://www.autodesk.com/products/eagle/overview

Kicad PCB:
https://kicad-pcb.org/

Thingiverse 3D repository:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3891738/files

[Bruce Davis]

Stan thanks for putting all the links together in one place. Would it be worth upgrading the Wolverine you built for me to v10 board, can it now achieve 2 frames per second instead of the 1 frame every two seconds as it is at the moment. I remember you mentioning earlier you could only achieve 1.6 FPS successfully due to the existing triggering system/timing. If I upgrade will Kamel Ikhlef switching system be required to be purchased separately or are you going to supply this item as well.
Thanks and regards - Bruce
P.S. what frame rate does the original unmodified Wolverine achieve.

[Stan Jelavic]

With the existing Wolverine that you have Bruce you could change the firmware to go to 1 FPS if you turn off capstan function. I can send you the MSP that can run that. You would end up with 1 FPS and 0.5FPS and existing speed switch. You could still use capstan in 0.5 FPS. I could not get 2 FPS because of camera timing. The camera trigger comes in too soon and sometimes smudges the bottom of the image. I added a delay and that reduced the speed down to 1.6 FPS which is still pretty good.
A small hw redesign would be required to move the camera sync to the right end of the claw travel in which case 2 FPS would be possible.
If you go with V10 then you would have 1.6 FPS and could reuse the switches but would have to rewire them.

[Bruce Davis]

Hi Stan thanks for the reply, would appreciate if I could double my current speed from 0.5 FPS to 1.0 FPS. Not sure, that if for me, its worth all the extra work to gain an extra 0.6 FPS. I assume that with the v10 board the capstan is still functional at the higher speeds.
I found that the only time the capstan has come into play (for me) is when a poor quality film join has caused it to jam.
I would appreciate if you could send an updated MSP430, please let me know the amount to transfer to your paypal account.
Again many thanks, do you know the FPS that the original wolverine operates at, just as a point of interest.
Regards - Bruce