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Thank you!
Thanks Kamel. I'm trying. I'm trying. Not always great work but work it is
Just figured out a small mistake I made with the plugin. I added and subtracted the blue color width (that I obtained from daVinci) from the center instead of adding 1/2 and subtracting 1/2 of the width.
Also a few minor plugin tweaks. Will release another version tonight.
Stan many thanks wow 70 pages that's a lot of work, documenting and software (scripts), colour comparison with Wolverine is very very close, amazing how much blue there was in the earlier versions.
Have been busy lately trying to transfer many Sony HDV tapes to computer. The firewire link on my camera is broken so have to use HDMI and of course have to bypass HDCP (2 way splitter), why Sony would include HDCP on a camcorder god knows. Technology changes so quickly that if stuff is not transferred to new formats eventually its lost (Old hardware no longer available).
Regards - Bruce
Sacred work Stan!
Sharing it is very generous of you. I still have a question : on the PCBs design,should we generally make a ground plan and bring all the masses together (GND of 12v, 5,3.3v,...)?
In the case of Hawkeye PCB is it useful? Or is it useless?
I found a great software tool to simulate electronic circuits. for my learning it will help me a lot.
I will test it !
link: https://www.falstad.com/circuit/
Ha ha I am sure God had nothing to do with this. He has much more important things to worry about. But thank you anyways Kamel. Glad this is helping you learn and the simulators are fun. I have a simulator for optics and spent lots of hours playing with it and learning. The grounds are important, that is for sure, but in our case we are not dealing with very high frequencies and high currents so it is not critical. That is why I believe we can connect all of the grounds together and then to the power supply through the power supply connector. The USB is a pass through and we should not be connecting it to the board ground. That way the USB is isolated from the board curcuitry.
BTW - the V8 boards are in and I started with the assembly.
For speed control I am going with this switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Will have a separate rewind switch.
This is for board testing.
Well, I just spent the better part of the weekend searching for a C mount lens for better sensor coverage.
Now, I no longer believe that a C mount lens will project a larger image on to the sensor than a m12.
C mount lenses are tied to sensor sizes in the same way that m12's are. The C mount lens' larger lens size will cause serious mounting problems on the Hawkeye. A lens that is rated for a large sensor should project a larger image, at least I think so.
I have to conclude that the relationship of lens to sensor size means that from the same point, the image projected is made to fit the sensor with some constant spacing. I could not find that stated anywhere.
I thought that projection size is simply controlled by the spacing between the lens and sensor. Since infinity focusing is not important for the Hawkeye, all that sensor/lens pairing might not matter.
The more I read about resolution, the less I am comfortable with working out the 4k thing on paper.
I found that Kodachrome 25 has a resolution of 100 LP/mm, but the camera's lens might reduce that.
LP/mm is an older method and I don’t think it can be easily “converted” to sensor arrays unless that information is published.
Some companies list both the megapixel rating for the lens along with the LP/mm.
2MP=100 LP/mm, 5MP=150 LP/mm, 10MP=200 LP/mm. If that's accurate.
From my notes, I think in October, this was Stan's wish list for a lens.
A macro optical lens of f12mm would be perfect with an aperture of f5.6, an IR block and a low distortion (0.15%) of 10M pixels. [Smile]
But maybe that exists?...
Could this be that lens? Paired with a 1/ 2.5 sensor, it might fill the whole sensor.
12mm 10mp F2.8 / F5.6 / F8.0 2/3 inch M12 cctv board 4k near field lens (Distortion < 0.17%)
Well Stan, still on the bridge as they say in France ! (still at work)
! I noted that on the V8 shematic the pins 2 and 3 of the speed connector are reversed, compared to your last sketch.
If we put two switches. what happens if we leave the rewind "on" and switch with the other button to change the speed?
YES, i know i ask too many questions! it's also because I don't know the answers, lol.
David, an other macro lenses link : https://scorpionvision.worldsecuresy...eld-m12-lenses
We can designed a 3D printing lens holder with IR block filter support (To think, because the standard holder do not work with the imaging source camera board :specific cut on a side)...
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Last edited by Kamel Ikhlef; January 06, 2020, 04:29 PM.
Wow, we have lots of activity today. First an update on V8.
Installed all the components for 12V, 5V, 3.3V power and the led turns on.
Will keep going with the stepper control tomorrow.
We have a big issue with the lens selection David. The issue is the working distance. Most of the candidate lenses, including the ones that you referred to have working distance of 0.1 meters.
That is what the spec says. We go way shorter and just hope and pray that it will work. Picking low distortion and macro certainly helps.
Here are some rules and guidelines to keep in mind:
- The senor size and the film size are pretty much the same so to cover the whole sensor the distance between the lens and film has to be 2x the focal distance. The same goes for the lens to sensor distance. It has to be 2x the focal distance. For the 12mm lens that represents 4x12mm distance from the sensor to the film or 24mm from the lens to the film. That is pushing the lens capabilities to the limit.
- The maximum diameter of circle of the lens has to match the sensor size, otherwise you end up with dark corners if the sensor is larger than the diameter. Smaller is OK. Your lens is 2/3" and the camera sensor is 1/2.5" which is smaller and should be OK.
- The resolution is important. 10Mpixel should be ok. I did a quick calculation - camera max rez * sensor size ratio came to app 8Mpixel.
- DOF (depth of field) - need F stop of 1/5.6 based of some calculations and also forum input from other people. The lens that we currently use is not good when it is at 24mm from the film. The corners go fuzzy.
Kamel, once the takeup input is active the stepper is turned off - so the speed is irrelevant. BTW - the switch that I picked for speed is not good. It is 4PDT but that is not what we want. Will just get the slide switch.
Stan,
Having a separate rewind button is a very very good idea !. With a eparate slide switch for the three speeds.
maybe like that : David, your lens choice lens interrest me too. what is the price with ircut (+ shipping for france).
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Last edited by Kamel Ikhlef; January 07, 2020, 11:04 AM.
Kamel I have ordered the sensor Stan spec'd for the Hawkeye, and a couple of cheap lenses to get started.
I found it on Alibaba for about $80. I did not look for more sellers yet. Seems to have all the options checked. They are willing to create a custom lenses for customers, but I'm only buying one lens!
Kamel, if you are switching the pins you will also have to switch the labels.
David, I found a 16mm lens from scorpion that may for for HD. Will send you more info tomorrow.
Installed the components for speed control but the machine stays quiet when the run switch is turned on.
Will do some more debugging tomorrow evening.
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