Wolverine-Hawkeye Telecine

[Stan Jelavic]

Yes, most of the IC Capture settings are kept unless you disconnect the camera. You can actually access the IC Capture settings from Telecine by clicking on the settings button, but no WDR. That is why I run IC Capture first to make sure WDR is set right. No, no tweaking all the time. You do that once. Run through the film clip and tune if necessary. Got to pick the right scenes. Once done that is it - you run IC Telecine. You can still stop the stepped and retweak if necessary and then just continue. If you do not hit the Stop in telecine the program just continues and you still end up with one file. I run uncompressed avi which can be converted to whatever you want later. Or maybe use one of the supported codecs.

[Stan Jelavic]

Bruce - all I did in Telecine was the green settings
G high = 0.93
G mid = 0.89
without it, the white houses have a green hue and the castle has green walls in midtones.

[David Brown]

Stan

I can join Mike and Kamel in saying, "It's Christmas!"

The board arrived, yesterday and I can't wait to hook it up. Thank you very much.

[Stan Jelavic]

Glad you got it OK David.

[Bruce Davis]

Stan, thanks for the clarification, am re-capturing the sample video you have with your latest settings, will do another side by side comparison, but so far the captures are looking good.

One thing that is bugging me with IC_Capture (not using IC_Telecine for these), setting the "Partial Scan" for example at x=800, y=544, with a frame size of 1344 x 968, when pausing capture (Stop Timer and de-activate external trigger) and re-starting capture, the frame location shifts upwards by about 1/6th of a frame (this is not mechanical but software related). To correct this, one has to open "Device Properties" " Partial Scan" and adjust the numbers (the original set numbers are still visibly correct) to bring the frame back into its correct location.

Realising that the software is able to shift the frame position so easily, would it not be possible to program into this software an option that would lock each frame into exactly the same location thereby correcting minor mechanical variances?

Regards - Bruce

[Stan Jelavic]

Sounds promising Bruce. If you want to improve the white balance then run Nick's program. Use unloaded gate. Click on settings. This opens up IC Capture like settings. Turn histogram on.
Turn exposure down until the preview is quite dark. With my settings the histograms should look balanced for RGB (not sure if yours will be if the LED tolerances vary). Tweak the lo,mid,hi settings in Nick's program bottom left.
Precede to the mid level by turning the exposure up. Adjust as required. I left the high level as is because at this point the colors spread out and it is hard to balance. You may end up with purple clouds.
This is my final setting.

Note the transfer curve. This is for LED compensation. For film stock you can do more tuning if you wish to do that.
If running Nick's program make sure to set the FPS to max during startup. You can stop it during run at any point and continue, still get one file.
You can save the file uncompressed or pick one of the codecs. No images captured, just avi file.

Have you tried Nick's program to see if it has the same issue with the frame position?
Also in IC Capture you can try ROI. Region of interest. Click on the preview and the window pops up. You can lock the settings there. Not sure if that would help, have not tried it.

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Stan, Here is the last version of the panel entirely redesigned following your advice.
I hope this is correct now! As we say in France, it becomes a "gas factory"! lol ...
But this is fun and helps me learn a little. I will also practice soldering, once I have ordered the PCBs.
Thanks again.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...qz?usp=sharing

[David Brown]

Stan

Well, it happened. The LED does not come on when plugged in. I went through TEST and found no voltages anywhere.

Before adding to this, is the camera required to complete the circuit? I have no camera and there is nothing plugged into "cam sync".

I will guess the test terminal is on the right-hand side of the board, next to "Interface Board V6.0". I see a 4 points labeled 3.3 VDC and 5 VDC IN. Nothing there, no voltage.

I can't fid J12 on the board. I see it in the V7.0 schematic. I tried all the points around the "MOSFET" ( three legs and a ground, a small black rectangle left of the LED socket.

I reconnected the 20 pin ribbon cable three times. Plugged the fan into the 5v socket and it runs. Everything worked prior to replacing the Wolverine board.

I hope from the 2 pictures something jumps out. I have the RUN plug connected to a momentary switch, the speed connection is rigged with jumpers. From the V6 assembly instructions the speed switch seems to have one lead cut off and there was a black mark in the same place. I did not cut it yet. It runs up and out of sight. Pin 4, from the schematic. I have pin 2 as common and it switches to 1 or 3.

The fan is not connected at all.

From memory, Kamel is preparing a switch panel. These parts need to be linked to something to buy! But I'm not ready for that yet.

Otherwise, I hope you're having a great day! I'm stumped.

P.S. Did I mention your avatar looks like you work part-time for National Geographic, photographing Komodo Dragons in Indonesia. Pretty good portrait!

[Stan Jelavic]

Sorry to hear you are having troubles with the board David. So, the first thing is to check if 12V is coming into the board.
We start there... 12V comes directly from the PS connector --- see the red trace running from J12 to J19, blue trace from J19 to J16 and then red trace from J16
to the 3rd pin from the top on the PS connector.
Thanks for the comment regarding my avatar. Maybe in my dreams he he.

PS - unplug all connectors except the power supply and check 12V.
Oh - one more thing - connect the stepper -- not sure what the PS will be doing with the stepper disconnected.

[Stan Jelavic]

Update:
Do not use any settings in Nick's program. It causes color digital artifacts.
Use the settings from my manual.
BTW - I suggest you turn down the reference in the exposure tab down to 64. Will give you less flare from the claw hole.
I think the flare issue that Mike observed was caused by too much exposure. I see very little now. WDR also helps.
Will update the manual.

Running a clip at 1.6 FPS using Nick's program. The only reason for using his program is to generate the avi file without intermediate images.
The colors look good. Pretty happy with them.
Will see what the comparison looks like.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/x52eyqUVDmAALX7D6

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Stan,
I forgot to specify in my previous post (Command Panel v5) that I replaced the 5-pin picoblade connector with a 3-pin one. I hope not to be mistaken in the wiring. If it's correct, I will order the Pcbs. Now, I am going to work a little on the design of the supports for the camera fan and to maintain this pcb in front.
On your Interface PCB (v6), there is not the new modifications on the connector and MSP430 (0.5FPS/1FPS/2FPS/RW). I am lost ! ...

[Stan Jelavic]

I will have to add it to the V8 version Kamel. Will check your design today.

Hawkeye white balance issue.
The red in Hawkeye is lower than G and B.

This may be the IR filter cutoff issue. So if you increase the R gain, the R becomes more spread.


The net effect is that in the mid and high range you will get a red tinge. The sky becomes blue reddish and pavement in low light becomes magenta color.
So I tuned it to be all even in the low end but that cause red to be less represented in the mid high range and you will see bit of greenish color in some scenes in my latest video.
So maybe bump up the red a bit and run a test video - check the sky color - paved surfaces - walls of the buildings etc.
Possibly try another lens without the IR filter.

[David Brown]

Stan, Hawkeye problem solved, but it was not easy! The 5v jumper from the power supply to the 5VIN (a jumper I made) was reversed polarity. I originally had the wire colors matched black to black, red to red. Now they cross.

LED turns on and the motor runs. I can only get two speeds. Is that right for this board V6? Open runs fast, shorting 2 and 3 slows down, shorting 1 and 2 goes fast again. Maybe there are 2 fast speeds?

The fan is reversed too, at least I will need to flip the wiring. Something seems wrong here, but that will be easy to do.

One other strange thing, no time to revisit the schematic tonight, the run switch stops the motor when closed, it runs when open.

[Stan Jelavic]

Glad you figured it out David. Looks like you used the fan cable for 5V. The fan wires had to be reversed.
There are 2 speeds selected by grounding pin 1 or pin3. Pin 2 is gnd.
Both open is used for rewind (center switch position). In rewind, the stepper does not matter, the takeup is run continuous.
The run input is active when high, switch open.

[David Brown]

Another dumb question....


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1


Will this work with my trigger? I'm testing to make it trip and see (hear) nothing happen. For power I used the Hawkeye board, then 2 AA batteries. I figured the ac capable switch would be fine for switching 5v dc.

Monitoring the Hawkeye board with a voltmeter, I can see the voltage changing from pin 2 and the 3.3v+

I have it hooked to test leads on continuity. Wait for the beep! No beep.