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Hi Marco. The shipping of t kit is around $14 to $20 depending on the country. Glad that Mattias's script worked for you. Do you plan to look into this issue more or just fix it with the script? It would be good to root cause the issue because it can get worse with time.
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Hi Marco, put your video through the VideoFred script twice, once to crop the video, not necessary in my opinion to capture so much unusable area, then again to stabilise. Quality of course is poor, original is a bad starting point.
Regards - Bruce
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AtIUdJCJJJGigUlZ...Z265o?e=HpqjxS
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Hi Stan, yes I would like to have another look at my issue when time permits but I do not have many ideas left at the moment; I want to investigate more on the oscillating gear.
Here is anyway the stabilization result from Mattias' script (with comparison to the original): https://photos.app.goo.gl/x9WG8Dm3fhwEuRnr6
Thank you very much Bruce for your samples. Indeed this short clip is not an ideal testbed for general restoration quality tests, it's too short, and dark, and not much interesting after all. I uploaded it only as an example of my "jumping frames" jitter issue.
I'm capturing the max available area after suggestion by David Brown; I was skeptical, but actually I did not see any quality loss when doing comparisons with cropped captures, and it seems the exposure and color balance are more consistent. And I do not have to worry about centering the frame because I have lots of margin
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Your stabilization result is good but it acted on the cropped image frame fixing both jitter and camera shake at the same time, so the result is even more cropped but this was probably not needed. If I stabilize on the larger image based on sprocket holes to only remove jitter, instead, I'm not losing image borders. And if I want to stabilize camera shake I can do it afterwards (but I probably won't).
I'm still a bit confused on the topic of VideoFred scripts... when you say you did put my video "through the VideoFred script", do you refer to scripts from the thread at https://forum.doom9.org/showthread.php?t=144271 ? Is this the latest source? The link in the first post does not work for me.
The end result anyway has too much contrast and sharpness, but as both you and me said above the original clip is not a good source.Comment
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Hi Marco, the result using Mattias' script is excellent (I have not used it, very good work by Mattias) and for you perhaps the best way to overcome your jitter problem (if you can not solve the mechanical issue). I also have jitter but not as severe as yours so I find the VideoFred scripts or using Video9 v3.1 adequate.
I only went through the exercise to see what is possible and yes this method would cause you to lose more of the frame borders and perhaps also quality.
VideoFred's scripts are very old and are meant to be used on good quality transfers, the script does not work as well on poor quality film captures. Your link to VideoFred scripts is correct.
Because your transfer from film to video is already highly compressed and sharpened using Mattias' sprocket hole script would be best and there will be no further deterioration of quality in your video.
If you wish to test, the cropping only of the stable (jitter free) video can be done easily using Video9 by selecting only that option.
I prefer to watch my S8 transferred home movies with camera shake also removed, but this may not be your preference.
Regards - BruceComment
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Marco Good that it did work
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Marco, I have some test ideas regarding your jitter issue.
If the motor shaft is bent it will cause shaft wobble as shown on the picture. Since the small gear shaft has some play it will result in small shaft wobble and cam wobble. This can cause cam jitter and it will be repetitive every 4 frames.
The way to test this is to use a micrometer and check the shaft playas you rotate the gear. If this is the cause you can replace the stepper. There is a model number on it. Also would be a good idea to get the new large gear from Wolverine.
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Yes Stan, this is exactly the kind of thing I was thinking about at the end of post #1237, and my only idea to be investigated further. Great drawing
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I do not have a micrometer but I hope that any wobble will be visible by careful examination, like the gear oscillation.
When you say "...get the new large gear from Wolverine", do you mean they sell spare parts? I remind you I do not own an original Wolverine (hard to get in Europe) but a clone.Comment
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You can observe the distance between the large gear and the plastic housing while rotating the gear. I believe and wobble should be noticeable. Wolverine Data do sell spare parts. I just got the cam spring from them that I lost somewhere. Take a picture of the part that you need and explain why you need it and send them the email using their web site. Do not know if they stock all of the parts but know that they have quite a few.
Looks like all of these units are based on the same core design so I think the gear parts should be the same. It is pretty low cost so it is worth the risk.
The stepper is available from 3rd party but you can also try Wolverine Data because they may be cheaper.Comment
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Marco
If you contact Wolverine Data <sales@wolverinedata.com>, be sure to include the serial number and 'make' . They might help, I doubt something like gears would be different on a specialty brand.
They might not want to go thru customs, they are in California, and refer you to another rep. I remember someone getting service in Europe, but China is the manufacturer. Searching for something in this forum (and the archived forum) is challenging.
These units sometimes appear on Ebay "sold for parts" cheap.Comment
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I don't mind buying it Marco and shipping it to you if everything else fails. It will be a higher shipping cost but should not be that bad.Comment
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Thank you very much Stan and David.
I still didn't take the time to open it and examine again, I used my free time to play with AviSynth for postprocessing (with good results I would say, I'll maybe post them in another thread to avoid polluting this one with unrelated stuff).
Anyway, I'm still using the unit without the front bezel, and I took this slow motion video while doing a conversion to see if I could capture anything strange in the movement:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hzyBEQyWAaXWpMQTA
Indeed, if you look at the movement of the claw mount while going down (under the red overlay sign), you can see that it moves differently each time: the first time it goes almost all the way down, but other times it momentarily stops halfway, sometimes it even appears to briefly stop twice.
Maybe this is related to the jumping issue? I still do not understand how a difference in the "down" section of the loop can affect the position of the next frame, but you never now.
And what can be causing this? Can it be helpful if I slightly loosen the stop screw on the side?Comment
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Hello,
Happy New Year everyone. we really need it in these complicated times.
For jitter, this is one of the biggest problems with this type of scanner.
Frankly if the image quality was there and more jitter. that would be a great scanner.
Without Stan's hawkeye mods, I would have given up.
Fortunately Stan saved the day for the most part. thanks again for that.
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Marco
If the slow motion clip you recorded was with film in the transport, try it without film. If the claw is more regular then maybe the film is too tight in the gate.
Kamel, are you still deciding on a camera / lens or now capturing film?Comment
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Thank you Kamel. Hope you machine is up and running.
Marco, David, don't think it is the film tension because the claw binds at the bottom where the film is fully disengaged. And I don't think that bottom jump is the cause of jitter. I extracted the frames at the point where the claw touches the stop and starts going down. Have a sequence of images but enclosing here image 1 and image 7. You can see that that in image 7 the claw is not even touching the stop and in image 1 it does, So, I am going back to my earlier guess that something is warped, either the motor shaft of the large gear. This could actually cause the jump at the bottom because due to the wobble the pressure of the claw against the stop will vary. Adjusting the stop could help but you do not want too much force there against the stop. Would check it by manually rotating the gears first. Adjusting the stop screw will also move the frame alignment.Attached FilesComment
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David, Stan,
I am very very late in my capture projects. lots of movies on hold.
yes, i'm still thinking about replacing my BUC02 with a UX226. I haven't made a decision yet.
For the optics I have an AICO 16mm.
I am looking for the maximum image quality because my S8 films will be shown on a large csreen.
I haven't finalized my workflow for post-production yet. I like film9 and davinci resolve.
I haven't had time to work on a universal camera mount for hawkeye yet.
many things to do this year
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