Wolverine-Hawkeye Telecine

[Mattias Norberg]

nice

Stan if you add the gamma boost in the Low and High exposure you get better results i mean this RGBAdjust(rg=1.4, gg=1.4, bg=1.4) you see the difference in POST Nr: #834 "2_Avisynth_Gamma_Change"


here is the code

a=ImageSource("F:\LOW_exposure\image%d.ppm",start= 1,end=3662,fps=18).RGBAdjust(rg=1.4, gg=1.4, bg=1.4).ConvertToYUY2()
b=ImageSource("F:\HIGH_exposure\image%d.ppm",start =1,end=3662,fps=18).RGBAdjust(rg=1.4, gg=1.4, bg=1.4).ConvertToYUY2()

on your files it was better to change this inside HDR1 function

ab=overlay( b_stab,t,x=0,y=0,mask=b_stab,opacity=0.4,greymask= true,mode="Multiply",pc_range=true).ColorYUV(off_y =0,gain_y=40)
abc=overlay( b_stab,t,x=0,y=0,mask=b_stab,opacity=1.0,greymask= true,mode="Difference",pc_range=true).ColorYUV(gamma_y=-200)

ColorYUV(gamma_y=-200) was the biggest improvement

you see it on POST Nr: #797
but you can see the hdr2.jpg the trees dose not have the colors right if you look how Enfuse 4.2 does it in POST Nr: #816 that looks better it have the trees in right color or it looks more right

[Stan Jelavic]

Yes, that worked. Used HDR2 and your gamma correction. Pretty close to your results.

[Mattias Norberg]

Yes, that worked. Used HDR2 and your gamma correction. Pretty close to your results.

yes

the HDR_Enfuse.tiff on google drive i did that with Enfuse 4.2 but before i did use Enfuse i did boost the gamma with imagemagick like this if i did not do that it did not look good at all

convert.exe "D:\Low.tiff" -gamma 2.0 "D:\LowNew.tiff"
convert.exe "D:\High.tiff" -gamma 3.0 "D:\HighNew.tiff"

and i did the auto levels on the Enfuse output like this with imagemagick not sure yet if it´s good or not maybe it can give some flicker

convert.exe "D:\hdr.tiff" -normalize "D:\hdrNew.tiff"

[David Brown]

Stan, I think I may have missed part of the HDR process since there are missing options even though this is still early. I found no option to select filetype and that might be why I get bmp's labeled as tiff.

Following the startup guide at IS, I am stumped by this:the next step is to create a project. To do this begin by selecting the 'New Project' command from the file menu, and select 'Standard EXE' as your project type.

I cannot see that option anywhere in Code Composer or Visual Basic. I sent the question to IS, but now I'm wondering why I even need to create a project in VB? I believe its only installed to provide auxiliary files. I'm not coding. Or am I??

Help......

[Stan Jelavic]

Ran a very dark clip in hdr mode. Then used one of the HDR images and compared it against the overexposed image to see if HDR is capturing dark details. Do not see too much difference. That means that HDR is reaching the film limit. Going with the faster camera would not make much difference based on this test. The dark areas go gray but not much additional detail.


here is the clip side-by-side, hdr and no hrd. Use teh UX226 camera for both.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kf6UygqPQ8Upshos5

Sorry for the video quality. Will have to move it to the drive.

[Stan Jelavic]

David, are you inquiring about Code composer for the MSP or Visual Studio for the PC app? Looks like you are asking about the app?
But it looks like you are running it already (BMP vs TIFF).
It you want to run the app as it just run the exe file in the bin/release dir from a dos shell.
But if you want to modify it then you have to open it up by clicking on existing project or solution. Then point to the downloaded dir and click on teh solution there. Example:
C:\Users\stan\source\repos\HDR.sln

The click on build tab and rebuild.
You will also notice that you can select the debug or release build (check the top menu).

The debug is nice. Hit F5 and code will run. You can set the breakpoints and examine the code.
When all good, run the release. The executable will be in the bin/release dir and you can run it from a dos shell.

[Mattias Norberg]

Stan if you have time can you test again Fast Gpu Debayer and see if it can handel better on having the Highlight in check so you do not get extra ligh halos

capture in Y8 or in Y16 and use Fast Gpu Debayer output Y8=24bit or Y16=48bit

here in the picture you can see what i mean because i do not get does halos from sprocket hole even when capture High exposure



or it can be rolling shutter i have global shutter on my camera

or uneven light source

or external light source that interfere

or the light bounces off something maybe the lens if it's too close

test to put a little dark tube in front of the lens if that helps

i think i did have similar problem when i did photo scan my old 35mm negative on a tripod and when i did add a dark tube in front of the lens then the problem was gone

in this picture i do not see any light halo maybe you have the lens farther away from the film
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...pfUDV5QW5RUGdB

[David Brown]

Stan, I agree that you could be at the limit of the film in the dark areas. Using Live view you should be able to slow down the shutter and see the detail, if it is there, live. No need to wait for HDR of two images.

My core question has been, do I have the full functioning HDR (WindowsApp2.exe)?

I have no options to select file type. Do you? I can set the path for ImgPath1 & 2 for captured frames.

I can't change IncLow or DecLow.

Turning on Trigger always produces the error message shown below, hitting Continue removes the message. It does capture images to both folders.
Settings has the typical options and they all work.

Grab will always complain, and never capture the live image.

A BMP is only 8bit. I don't think it can ever be 16bit, I am capturing RGB 64 3000x4000, captured files are BMP and 24bit.

I believe you have been capturing 16 bit files, or not?

[Stan Jelavic]

Mattias, we are aware of this issue. It is the lens flare. It is not always there but it does happen with the dark scenes. I can try the 16mm lens. It will be further away from the film. The flare seems to be causes by the internal tube of the lens.

Oops missed your post David.
Not that it will make much difference but there is a newer version:
https://github.com/vintagefilmography/hdr

It is still not fully complete and has some issues. I will clean them up slowly.
The file type is currently not selectible because I am using the display buffer and it is BMP 8 bits per channel.
There is a way of using a different 64 buffer but I could not get that to work with live display.
If I use both buffers I do not get the image ready event which I need to change the exposure.

At that point I said this is lots of work and we still do not know if it will give us any benefits so I hit the pause button on that
for a little while.

IncLo and DecLo should work in new version (see the link above)
Trigger cannot be activated when the Start button is active. Turn Start off, hit trigger and then Start on.

Grab needs more work.

Hope this helps.

[Mattias Norberg]

Mattias, we are aware of this issue. It is the lens flare. It is not always there but it does happen with the dark scenes. I can try the 16mm lens. It will be further away from the film. The flare seems to be causes by the internal tube of the lens.

ok

[Stan Jelavic]

16mm lens has less flare in HDR images. The lens is mounted with 20mm standoffs (1600x1200 rez).

[David Brown]

YES, that helps. I was not sure if it was something I didn't do!

Image looks better, I thought it might be lens flair.

So no rush, looks like mine HDR is working fine. Thanks Stan.

[Stan Jelavic]

Great. One note. Do not crank up the hi image exposure too high. It will start messing up the images and save some if the lo image into the hi dir and vice versa because the 2 second scan interval is not long enough. It could also cause the exposure to snowball because it is not sequencing images correctly (misses exposure subtract).
The fix is to keep the auto ref around 90, run at 2sec/frame.

[Mattias Norberg]

16mm lens has less flare in HDR images. The lens is mounted with 20mm standoffs (1600x1200 rez).

yes it looks better

maybe paint the internal tube of the lens with something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PSaGS5i1Yw

or maybe do the internal tube of the lens like the arms and legs on this picture
maybe only need one bigger ring in the middle of the tube or one of the ends of the tube



i was thinking when you say 2 second scan interval if you lower even more the the Low exposure then you get more time for the High Exposure im sure you have already test it and what works best

because when i have seen some of your capture it looks like there can maybe be little more details in the highlights

in my Low Exposure capture the Sprocket hole is always the brightest of course and it does not clip in the histogram then im sure that in the film i never get blown highlights and it does not matter if the film is to dark because of the High Exposure is next

blown highlights=details gone forever need to capture again to get them back of course the same is for shadows

[Stan Jelavic]

Never tried dismantling the lens Mattias. Very cool number 3 black paint video.
Looks like it is available from this site:
https://www.culturehustleusa.com/pro...BoCtjgQAvD_BwE
Just by looking at the outside of the lens the coating is pretty shiny. Maybe it is like that inside as well.