Wolverine-Hawkeye Telecine

[Stan Jelavic]

Here is the description of how the optocoupler works - see special optocoupler description further down on the page David.
https://www.nutsvolts.com/magazine/a...upler-circuits
Welcome Jerry. Glad you could fix your unit and are happy with the results.
I am testing the color phase shift. Have some truncation issues for very saturated colors but not a big issue.
Will share the results soon.

[Bruce Davis]

Hi Stan, you are a genius, so versatile you can do everything, software, hardware and electronics design, firmware etc. The creation of a colour plugin is great news and I thank you for your continued dedication and effort to this project. Yes this is exiting.

Jerry Davisson, welcome to the forum, glad you were able to sort out your hardware problem with the Wolverine.

Kamel Ikhlef, thanks for your efforts in creating a control panel for the Hawkeye.

regards - Bruce

[Stan Jelavic]

Thank you Bruce and Kamel for kind comments and support.
The plugin works. The phase correction gives me the same result as daVinci. Would like to clean it up and enable it to pick up the values from the script. It is currently hardcoded.
Here's the blue shift:

[Bruce Davis]

Stan that image looks beautiful, I assume in the future the level will be adjustable not hard coded, for a test this is impressive.

[Stan Jelavic]

Thanks Bruce, Yes, it will be adjustable.

[David Brown]

Congrats to Mike, now posting final versions on his Youtube site. It certainly does look better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKqQMf6OTJM

[Stan Jelavic]

Very nice, Great job Mike.

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Mike, very good results!
can you share your experience how did you get these best scans?
What is your workflow? It's always interesting !

[David Brown]

Thank you Stan for the opto-coupler information. I will test mine again. Now I see the resistor goes across the trigger out and the +3.3v. Got that wrong the first time.

Would I expect to see at least 3.3v? The position of the claw does correspond to voltage changes, but the range is 1.1mv to 0.5mv. Seems too low if the camera expects 3-12v?

I'm a little fuzzy on a couple of things.

1 Does the Hawkeye provide the voltage to the camera or simply switch the power it must receive from the usb.?

2 Why should I need a second opto-coupler to trigger a dslr?
The voltage between ground and shutter on my camera is 3.18v. Shutter and ground wires are connected to trip the shutter.

Anyway, does this sound like the opto-coupler is functioning?

Seems like there might be another problem. When I provide power to Hawkeye, nothing happens. No led light or motor/claw motion. When I unplug sync, everything comes on. Once it's running, I can replace the sync plug in the board. This may be a clue to something, but it seems odd.

The attached picture shows the resistor in series. I changed that but did not take a new picture!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n9i...ew?usp=sharing

The video shows the startup with sync.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ex...jgkt_2P-VK7cLi

[Stan Jelavic]

Hmmm strange issues.
Just a note that there is already a resistor there between the trigger out and 3.3V. That is R2. It is 3K on your board,
So even without the external resistor that you added teh trigger out should be switching.
The low swing that you observed u=indicates that the transistor is on all the time.
Do you have any light pointed at the optocoupler? (pretty unlikely)
Hope it is not zapped.
Power everything down, remove R2 then check the resistance between the trigger out and the ground (pin 1). It should be very high. If not, then the output transistor could have been zapped.

1. The camera is powered by the usb. Hawkeye provides the trigger only.
2. If your camera trigger is 3V then you may be able to go directly. You will still need the pullup that is low enough to be able to drive the camera trigger input when the wolverine trigger transistor is off.
And the value of the pullup should not be lower than 1K otherwise you can damage the Wolverine optocoupler. So there are some constraints when connecting directly.

The startup problems can be related of something is shorting in the trigger circuit. That pulls more power than normal and the startup circuit that I described last week may not start up.
Double check the trigger connections.

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Happy New Year to everyone. I just checked on the v8 shematic for the new camera trigger sync system,
I noticed that pin 2 was not connected to 3.3v.but maybe this is normal?
I no longer dare to ask silly questions!
(bootstrap, pullup, ... I really need to advance in my learning!)

[Stan Jelavic]

I made it configurable Kamel in case there is an issue with the new circuit. It can be jumpered two ways. Will post the instructions once I am done testing. Thanks for checking.

[Stan Jelavic]

Got the script working pretty good. The red and blue shift are programmable from the script. Did not like the final video frame size:
W=720 H=576
So changed the size close to the original but that got pretty involved. In summary had to turn off interpolation.
Working on documentation and hopefully will release the whole thing tomorrow including the source.

[Kamel Ikhlef]

Stan, Small technical question (I like to understand). Should the shield of the 2 USB connectors be connected to the ground plane or to a GND signal? Or just simply linked together. thank you for your clarification,
it's just for my understanding. I am learning with the complete 2560 arduino kit. Very interesting and fun.
BTW : of course, I continue my 3D Design !
.

[Stan Jelavic]

Very good question Kamel. You will find all kinds of suggestions on this topic. I have a simple answer. The USB signals are high frequency and could emit interference. The shield is used to reduce that interference. If both the host and the device have metal housings then the shield on both ends should be connected to them but not to the power ground. Connecting it to the ground could cause ground current of high frequency to run through the shield and could act as an antenna. In our case I just connect the shield to the shield and let the camera and the pc handle it