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Thank you!
Stan, do you know when the v12 update will be available (shematic and MSP code)?
I am working on the front cover (not easy, because I plan to protect and guide the film.
t is advancing slowly but it is advancing.
A draft below ... Do you have others ideas for the design ?
I will provide the possibility of also fixing the Panel v3 of Stan.
I don't have much space for a fan to cool the camera but I'm thinking about it.
I planned a curved guide for film protection and a magnetic door for the dusts.
Lots of steps to take to adapt. But it is moving forward.
Attached Files
Last edited by Kamel Ikhlef; March 13, 2020, 08:38 AM.
Thanks for the input. Your comments and Davids reference to the ROI button on the windows app got me thinking. Perusal of the TIScamera documentation provided the answer. Auto exposure is calculated based on the entire FOV by default. But when you define an ROI the auto exposure is based only on the ROI. I'll have to consider how to take advantage of this.
Looks similar to the original Wolverine cover Kamel. The bottom part can be very close to Wolverine and the top part has to allow for the board and the switches. You can make the front panel as a part of the cover and round the corners a bit.
Chris, ROI is Ok to use for exposure but do you need the perforation holes for alignment?
V12 update:
The boards have been ordered. Placed orders to update my inventory for 15 boards. Still looking at 3D print suppliers and doing the less critical parts with Printathing and toothed pulleys with Shapeways. Will see how they turn out. Plan to assemble the switches first and the go from there. Will not be sending the stuff out for auto assembly since the qty is low. Also ordered qty 15 of capstan motors from China. It will take a while before they come in but can ship these separately.
Thanks Stan for the V12 news.
For people who have planned to mount their pcb themselves,
is there an assembly guide to help with assembly (resistance values, connections, switches ...).
David,
Sorry but there will be a delay. the mail with the wittner clip is ready but because of events in France (covid19).
The mail has not yet left. We are in confinement, it has become complicated because we do not have
a post office in my small village. I will send you as soon as possible.
My 3D printer is down (the Hbed no longer heats up)... I contacted the Chinese manufacturer who does not answer me.
I think it is a capacitor and a resistor but I do not know the values then difficult to repair.
This will further delay the design of the front cover because I do printing and adjustment tests as the design progresses.
But, It's almost over.
Hi Kamel, hope you will figure out to fix your printer. The virus is setting all of us back all over the world.
I do have assembly drawings. Will update them with the V12 and add them to the manual. Will also add the capstan instructions later on.
Thank you Stan,
For my 3D printer I don't know if we can know the value of a component like a capacitor.
It is a 24v heater board.
2 components to change but I don't know the values (1 resistor and 1capacitor).
If anyone has a suggestion ?. The manufacturer does not respond despite several emails.
Hi Kamel. That component that you are having a problem with is not a resistor but thermistor. Essentially a resistor which changes its value with temp. A divider is implemented consisting of R1 and the thermistor. The divider divides the VCC voltage and sends the signal back to the motherboard. As the temperature increases, the thermistor value decreases and the divider voltage drops down. That way the motherboard can control the heater temp.
There is a blog about it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/i...i3/topic:32312
Do you think the thermistor is burned out. You can heat it up and check the resistance. The other resistor is 4.7k. What is wrong with the capacitor?
The capacitor is not that critical. It delays the signal. Probably 0.1uF should be ok off the top of my head.
Thank you very much Stan,
I am not as competent as you in this area.
I will follow your suggestions. It's already a very good track.
You are right It must be the thermistor because the Hbed Board not heat any more.
Thanks again.
If there is no heat, there also could be the power to the board, or a contact problem or broken trace on the board. You can check with the voltmeter if you can access the terminals. Possibly apply power externally with the board disconnected (to prevent damaging the motherboard) and check if it starts heating up.
Kamel, don't go to the Post Office on my account! We are also restrained more and more here. Schools & business are closed. All restaurants are now only take out.
I found YouTube videos about your printer where the heater failed. In both cases it was a failed wire. One was the thermistor wire and the other power. The movement of the bed fatigued the wires and they failed. I also replaced the plug on my printer's heater and directly soldered the connections.
You could print with PLA while your under repair. It does not require heat. Good Luck.
Sorry David,
It will be for a little later.
For my 3D printer, I had already changed the wires.
But Stan's suggestions got me on the right track.
I just measured the components: actually R1 = 4.7 KR2 (thermistor) = 125 K.
When looking under the microscope, it is split. So I'm going to change it.
I don't know yet which model to take. maybe a 100K will do the trick.
I don't know the beta value for the thermistor to replace .
Thanks for your help outside the telecinema topic.
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