Tweet
No worry Chris. They ship it with the protective tape over the sensor. Just carefully peel it off. If there is any debris left wipe it carefully with a lint free cloth and alcohol.
-
-
Thanks Stan.
Would be nice if they added a "When you receive this.." note in the box.
C.
Comment
-
Tried the inserts again with a flat tip soldering iron and it works pretty good. They holes on some parts are a bit too wide but we know that this depends on the printer used and process. So maybe I will go with the inserts after all.
Comment
-
Stan,
I had no problem with the inserts. I also use a soldering iron.
I do it very slowly, I try to do it several times to be sure that the insert is straight and aligned.
And just before the end (insert still hot) I take a metal rule and I press to put it flat to the brim of the hole.
With this method, I still prefer the inserts for better reliability of the fixings.Comment
-
Hello All.
I'm too fried after spending 2 days with the capstan(s) to pursue this anymore! I'll just leave some notes of interest.
The outside diameter of my s8 viewer's capstan teeth is 17.0mm. It works just like ours as it is not driving the film, the film drives it. It also has 12 teeth.
The tooth pitch or spacing from Kamel's original design is not wrong, it does work. I used multiple capstans in this investigation.
The real problem is alignment. Capstan to the gate, even the first pulley after the capstan. Very small offsets or angles cause the film to disengage occasionally.
Even if the film perforations occasionally miss the teeth, the capstan continues to rotate and will pull the film when activated.
That said, my Hawkeye is still out of alignment. It is too cumbersome to tweak and maybe beyond the time and interest of most!
It can be done, I left the whole capstan assembly loose and shifted the motor and pulley with my hands, while it was running, until I had two perfect rotations.
I had to let go.Comment
-
Stan, the STEP files (STP) previously uploaded are my current and the ones I used to print the capstan assy I have currently fitted on my Hawkeye. I have been experimenting with the curved tooth shape and 13 teeth instead of the standard 12. Have decided to stick with Kamel's tooth profile and the 12 teeth, the curved teeth when printed are too short (in Height).
Not sure what R8 is, did you mean N8 (normal 8 mm film). I have up until now only worked on the super 8 capstan sprocket assy. as all the film so far processed has been S8, only have one or two small normal 8 reels so it has not been a priority.
"taper or no taper" it does not really matter that much, I used the taper Back_Toothed_Pulley_S8_Capstan.
Initially made the change so that the Toothed_Pulley_S8_Capstan would slide over the hexagonal faces more easily and makes it easier also for removal. The taper extends half way down the face of the hex and the dimensional difference is minor, 10mm to 9.9mm.
Regards - BruceComment
-
David, it is all very time consuming, not sure what you mean by alignment, do you mean sideways or vertically.
The s8 viewer capstan on mine has a hinged metal clamp that can be raised or lowered to hold the film onto the capstan sprocket preventing the film from riding over the teeth, because of the clamping, I guess shorter teeth are not a problem (17mm OD as against 18mm OD).
Is your Capstan in a different location, mine is the first after the gate so do not have alignment problems.
A pulley could be designed with film guides (flange back and front) incorporated so that the film remains in line.
Regards - BruceComment
-
Good point Chris. Imagingsource should include note in the package. I will contact them and request that. You are not the only person that ran into this issue.
Bruce, yes I meant N8. Would need the STEP file of Kamel's design for N8 (some call it R8) so that I can tweak the design but since you have not done any changes to that I can just ask Kamel to send me the STEP. But this is not rush. Got to get the S8 working first.
David, are you giving up on capstan? Hang in there. I generally let the big problems go for a while and keep coming back to it with new energy. Having a team of people here is also a great help.
Kamel, with the flat tip is works very nice because it is easy to keep the alignment all the way in. As you said doing it in small increments helps. That way the insert is not very hot when fully seated.
Comment
-
Hello everyone, Stan no problem for N8 STEP files. I'm just going to check the dimensions again before to post.
David your last alignment experience is very interesting.
If we can improve the telecine system. Can tell you what dimensions it would take to be good ?.
I can modify the files accordingly. Bruce, your idea of ​​curved teeth is perhaps a good solution..
I will give it a test... Maybe a better grip (just an idea !)Attached FilesLast edited by Kamel Ikhlef; February 24, 2020, 06:31 AM.Comment
-
-
Kamel, My comment in post 312 "Printed a sprocket with the new curved tooth profile, not really good, the teeth are too small and short, better to stick with Kamel's tooth profile." you might have missed it.
Stan, I do not want to offend Kamel but just to give you options plus I needed one also, I modified Kamel's N8 design. Did not like the idea of printing the teeth off the bed in mid air, that usually does not work out very well. Checked it against Kodak N8 film and it looks good. This is the NONE brass insert version.
Capstan N8 STEP Files.zip
Regards - BruceComment
-
Thank you Bruce. I don't think Kamel will be offended. It is good that we can modify the files since we all use different printers.Comment
-
Aha! I'm really upset ...
No, of course not, quite the contrary, it's a collaborative project. What is done is no longer to be done.
It is very good. I shared the files it is also so that everyone can contribute to the building (as we say in France).
Thanks Bruce.
Comment
-
Stan I found that adding the set screw (just below the top) to the insert before installation, keeps the soldering iron from getting stuck inside the insert.
Like Kamel suggests, don't push all the way in one move. Stop, examine, continue.
Bruce Sometime I'm so close the the work that my descriptions lack details!
Alignment extends to the 1st pulley after the capstan. This picture is exaggerated. The offset might not be seen, or in another axis than top down.
This has happened to me before where the capstan hole was askew, but now it's motor (something) is not mounted square. That seems so unlikely?
I also found that the sloppy fit of the BPSC and PSC is important. Well, it should be anyway, but it can shift position randomly due to tension.
AND I suggested avoiding a set screw, hard pressing on the capstan to the motor. It all works great until the motor is powered to pull the film! It slips.
some pictures of my weekend with the capstan.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1is...klVC1YfcfRwoEGComment
-
Wow ! great work David...
Very nice experiment. Very very interesting!
If I understood correctly, the design of the pulleys should be shifted a little forward. (of how many ?)
If you make a precise diagram of what you want as modifications, I will do it and send you the files to print.
Indeed, if we want to refine the precision of the alignment it can improve the scrolling of the film.
Thank you very much for your contribution.Comment
-
KAMEL I think the adjustments needed are too small and will be different in each case. Bruce has no problem with his machine, others may have something else.
The film is being pushed from the gate and pulled from the takeup. Sometimes that can pop the film off the teeth.
Something like this would overcome the small deviations, putting pressure on the film edges. Uses one of the pulley holes and no springs, just a magnet to hold it to the face.
My version 7 Hawkeye does not regulate the takeup speed (unless I've wired it wrong!) so sometimes I have to retard the takeup by hand. That alone could cause some of this problem.
Comment
Comment