Welcome to the new 8mm Forum!
The forum you are looking at is entirely new software. Because there was no good way to import all of the old archived data from the last 20 years on the old software, everyone will need to register for a new account to participate.
To access the original forums from 2003-2019 which are now a "read only" status, click on the "FORUM ARCHIVE" link above.
Please remember registering with your first and last REAL name is mandatory. This forum is for professionals and fake names are not permitted. To get to the registration page click here.
Once the registration has been approved, you will be able to login via the link in the upper right corner of this page.
Also, please remember while it is highly encouraged to upload an avatar image to your profile, is not a requirement. If you choose to upload an avatar image, please remember that it IS a requirement that the image must be a clear photo of your face.
Thank you!
Thank you Stan and David,
Here is as promised the version with door below.
For the command Panel with the switches, tell me what would suit you.
A small drawing is enough.
Thanks Stan for the description of the flat cable service. I thought that maybe most of the connections are all 12v & 5v. The lines are so small I thought not enough current could pass through any 1 and they used multiples.
Your description is so complete, I have no other questions!
EXCEPT
The latest manual I have, V5, that does not show how the front panel mounts. Probably over the missing display hole. I can see them by the circuit boards and what I like is they are labeled.
Kamel, you are crazy fast on the design board! I will be reprinting that!
Thanks Kamel, Stan, David for the programmer links, the MSP-EXP430G2 apparently is no longer available, replaced by MSP-EXP430G2ET. Shipping from overseas is a higher price than the programmer, will look on Ebay for a cheaper none genuine Hong Kong option.
David, on the BenQ PD3200U monitor, apparently (quote) "CAD/CAM mode affects Brightness, Contrast, Sharpness, Eco Sensor, creating a more comfortable brightness with strong over saturation. The over saturation is intentional as this mode is helps wire frame meshes etc. stand out for modelling and design work".
Text on 4K, as you say, can be very small, was originally going to get the 27 inch 4K but that might have been a mistake so chose the 32 inch.
The monitor was shipped Tuesday but will not arrive until next Tuesday 7 days for a 700km journey, they used to be able to do this overnight, but now blame COVID-19 for any delays.
thank you everybody,
maybe too quickly, David !
I just noticed that the small bottom door is badly designed,
forgot to make a blocking stop. It will not hold. I will think about correcting this.
It still does not have the front panel mount but has better description on how to set up Fred's script.
The front panel just uses the existing holes. Will add the description the next time I update the manual.
Bruce, no need for the new MSP. Just reuse the one that you have. Use a small flat screwdriver, pop it out, plug it into the programmer (make sure not to reverse it), reprogram it and reinstall back and you are done.
Thanks David for the link. Ordered qty 2.
Last edited by Stan Jelavic; April 25, 2020, 01:11 PM.
Stan, thanks for keeping us up to date, that high speed is really moving (hope there is still enough time to capture a frame).
The following bears no relevance to what you are currently doing, was just reading various articles on camera sensors:-
1/2.3, 1/2.5 inch Micron CMOS sensors
For general snapshots taken in good lighting conditions, cameras using these sensors may deliver perfectly acceptable results, but otherwise they can struggle to hold on to highlight detail and may produce images with a grainy, noisy texture.
I tested the tiff capture at 2 FPS into a USB3 external drive and it worked for a few hundred feet of film. Obviously, more testing is required.
Regarding the sensor, I did several hundred feet Bruce and after VideoFred pretty happy with the results overall. It is known that the CMOS sensors have some issues at low light. Even with DSLRs high density sensors have noise issues and the cameras designed for low light use less pixels so that the space between then is larger.
I think if we want to experiment after this project is done, one possibility is to rig up a camera mount on the top and make a notch at the top of teh panel. That way it would be possible to mount a larger camera and lens.
Hope things are going well with Hawkeye, no more wild animals running thru your shop!
I've caught up on things and have turned my eye back to Hawkeye. I have the 12 mil lens mounted and see there is clearance with the usb and the fan.
This is in Kamel's printed upper assembly.
There will be a collision with my 16 mil lens. I can move the fan elsewhere. Right now I'm thinking of a different mount for the camera. The 16 mil needs to move from the default position for framing. S8 and R8 need different positions.
That might be too much work in the end.
A question about V12's board. Are there traces that are not visible like the top and bottom surfaces? Maybe hidden layers?
I don't want to drill new mounting holes for fear of cutting thru a trace I can't see. The holes shown below in magenta don't seem be used. Could these be used those for a small bolt?
Anyway, I still don't have a plan yet. Drilling over sized PCB mounting holes was tricky on V6. I don't have precise control and they are too close to traces I can see.
Hi David. It is a two sided board.
The red traces are on the top and blue on the bottom. A quick solution is to make a small rectangular adapter board with the lens cutout. Use inner holes to mount the adapter and then drill camera holes on it wherever you need them.
Tweet
Comment