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Just use IC Capture zoom but I assume you are already doing that. Is your lens and camera mount solid without any play. If there is any play once you achieve the best zoom it may be possible that the lens moves after that taking the image out of focus a bit.
Wow, thanks for the bracket, that was really fast.
Checked what it would cost to do the capstan (stepper stop + alert):
- 3D parts $42.65 from shapeways.com
- motor $13.39
- sonalert around $2
- assembly $5
Received the mask from Shapeways and it does make a significant improvement in image contrast.
Without the mask I had to cut down the exposure to get the decent contrast but that causes the darker shadows.
So, "use the mask". Ha ha don't believe I said that.
Total cost from Shapeways was $18.53 which includes $8.99 for shipping.
Regarding the V12 kit. I finished qty 5 build and it is ready to ship. Will re-evaluate my costs and will try to give you guys some price break.
Maybe around $100 for the kit.
For capstan I cannot give any break since I sell it what it costs me for the materials.
HDR (2 exposures); Figured out a way how to add HDR2 to the MSP FW. Essentially:
speed switch in low pos and takeup switch on - capstan active
speed switch in hi pos and takeup switch on - HDR2 (2 exposures)
HDR1 (single exposure) - no changes to the MSP. I got some support from TIS Germany and can save the 64 bit tiff images now. Working on the HDR single exposure app and will try to generate 2 images right from the app with the gamma correction done right in the app.
HDR3 (3 exposure): It is definitely possible. Needs some SW/FW work if there is interest.
I have been offline for a while. I jumped forward to comment on your difficulty with focus . I found the focus point with the camera outside of the Hawkeye and used a microscope mount. This is less money than the micrometer you found on Amazon which is VERY inexpensive at 36 euros! I searched for these and found them at 10x that price! ​
This one I used to find the focusing distances that change with sensor distance. The camera sits on top of the ring. I cannot find the picture I posted long ago.
If you are still having problems, I will research more details. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=UTF8&psc= 1
After reading all the posts I would use caution with a printed lens mount. Materials used and precision of the printer come into play with my printer. If the lens is loose, however slightly, it will affect focus. Also I found it possible to cross thread the lens and the same problem occurs. So I am using the lens mount that came with the camera and a metal lens extension to avoid the alignment problems.
Last edited by David Brown; September 12, 2020, 03:40 PM.
Thanks to Mike Spice I discovered that MSP actually runs at 1 MHz cpu clock and is capable of up to 16. So for the heck of it I set it to 4Mhz and with the switch in 1 FPS position it stared running at 4FPS. Mike has an older board and wondered if he can upgrade it to 2 FPS with just a FW change. It definitely seems to be feasible. What this means is that the people that have older boards can upgrade to 2 FPS with just a FW change. It also gives us additional cycles for programming. For example, capstan can be made to work in any speed. Possibly 4 FPS but that could cause heating and other mechanical issues. Not even sure if the file system can keep up with it even in jpeg mode.
Hey Stan. Everyone loves options, but if this increased speed is something in addition to the existing speeds I have now, I'm in! There is always interest.
Soon I hope to continue the post processing tests. Seems like I've been faced with too many tasks cutting into the front of the line. Not the least of those, I had no power for 5 days after last week's wind storm. Just like camping, without the campfire! Plenty of smoke from California.
I also found the "mask" makes for better auto exposures.
David,
Thank you. indeed I still have difficulty focusing. What height of lens holder do you have. and camera spacers ?.
The amazon's micrometer is very small (25x25mm) and I wanted to fix it definitively on Hawkeye with a specific support,
but for the moment I have no idea to ​​fix it... I am thinhing about it...
Stan,
Thanks for continuing to continuously improve the hawkeye. It is very promising.
No power sucks, big time David. I experienced that a few times with the hurricanes here. Got a yamaha 2kW generator now and a small portable window unit AC. You can run the AC and the fridge at the same time and a few lights plus tv. Not bad. Very quiet unit.
The higher cpu clock enables us to add more features without running out of cpu cycles. Possibly 3 or 4 FPS, HDR integrated into the main code instead of having two different versions etc. Definitely more flexibility. Glad to hear the mask works out for you also.
Kamel, I assume you are using the BUC02 camera. Should be using the TIS holder with the metal extender if required.
With the 16mm lens I used 20mm standoffs.
That gave me app 1700x1300 rez.
My concern with the micrometer is leveling. The camera has to be perfectly horizontal and you may not be able to achieve that with a setup like this?
Glad to hear you're powered Stan! The generator is very tempting even though these storms only come 10-15 years apart. The last one was in 2011.
Local advise is to buy the generator and don't open the box until needed. Yup, everything in the fridge was bad. Pretty cold too, wind came from Canada.
Kamel I wanted to use a 2 axis micrometer to adjust for S8 or R8. There is just not enough room in the Hawkeye, even less with the 16mm lens.
Do you plan to use the 16mm lens with the BUC02 camera?
I will open mine and see where I ended up tomorrow. I started with 20mm spacers, I think I am closer now.
Two important tips:
1. Start a close as you can to Stan's lens calculation, it will save hours!
2. Don't try to focus with the camera mounted in the Hawkeye. It's difficult to get your fingers on the lens. That's a case for an external test.
3. Too much distance (image magnification) or spacing from lens to sensor might not ever focus. OK, that's 3 tips.
We are living in strange times. (covid, global warming ...)
I hope everything will be back to normal.
Thanks Stan and David for your very valuable advice.
Yes, at the moment I am using the BUC02.
For the lens support I use the one I designed in 3D.
This allows me to make the desired length. I have no problem on that side.
My printer is quite accurate (20 microns) I take TitanX filament from Form Futura and it works fine.
Just the focus which is very difficult to achieve. (just translate on Z axis. For XY axis I can adjust offset in IC capture).
David, I don't understand your procedure:
you set your focus on the outside of the Hawkeye and then how do you report your distances
(it's not easy to have the right dimensions).
Yes, Stan's table helps me a lot in my tests.
For the micrometer, it's just an idea (maybe not feasible).
I wanted to design a specific support and have it machined in aluminum for better rigidity.
The tests would be done with nylon or polycarbonate 3D prints.
Attached Files
Last edited by Kamel Ikhlef; September 15, 2020, 12:58 AM.
Kamel, you can make room for this micrometer by moving the Hawkeye switches higher or to another location, but once focus and framing are locked down, there would be no reason to use it again. At the magnification used for 8mm film, tiny imperfections are evident. The film and sensor need to be parallel as Stan has cautioned.
The 16mm lens is difficult to focus because there is little room for your thumb and finger on the lens when it's mounted in the Hawkeye. Focusing with the depth of field of f5.6 makes small changes imperceptible. The f2.8 was easy to focus.
This testing device you made long ago will work the same as the microscope rack I used. It would need to be easy to slide the camera or the film and have a locking set screw.
You can use a printed subject, or film. With film use a cell phone with a blank white screen or led panel like the one shown. The film BEST to use is the SMPTE RP32 focusing pattern for framing and a sharp source.
The microscope rack can move very fast, up or down, making precise focus easy to see. What it is changing here is the "standoff" distance, the distance from the front of the lens to the 8mm film.
The lens can then be threaded in or out of the mount, changing the distance between the sensor and the lens. Then adjust the standoff distance again to re-focus. Get closer to the design standoff length or change to a new one.
The real reason to do this is verify that the lens CAN be focused at the spacing used.
Hope that's clear!
This is the spacing I use with the 37UX226. The film framing will be wrong for the 72BUC02, but it might still focus.
Kamel, here are my lens measurements for the BUC02 camera and 16mm lens. I used your expensive holder and can ship it back to you if you still have issues with your setup. Note the teflon tape I used to reduce the lens play. I used 1.5 turns of tape. Worked out good, not to snug not too loose. The lens protrudes out far enough to allow for easy focus adjustments without too much jitter.
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What height of lens holder do you have. and camera spacers ?.
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