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David,
I have a lot of films damaged by my projectors some torn along the length several perforations of suites.
Other just distorted perforations. That's why I care so much about the capstan.
But a laser scanning system would have been perfect. But I think impossible on hawkeye or too complicated to set up?
I guess (Stan will confirm). For the motor, Stan is more competent to know what torque it takes for another motor encoder.
I haven't tried the active capstan yet, I am very late compared to you...
Are the scans hanging? holes in the continuity of the capture?
In this case, is there a way to scan manually to scan the images with the damaged perforations?
manually advance and scan one frame at a time where there is a problem.
Last edited by Kamel Ikhlef; October 05, 2020, 03:17 AM.
If active capstan is used the scan will have misaligned frames and needs to be postprocessed and misaligned frames removed. With manual capstan the scan stops at the damaged point and then can be scanned manually by manually moving the film.
I know Kamel that you wanted to have active capstan but not sure if you realized that postprocessing would be required. The advantage of active capstan is that if you have lots of damaged reels you scan them faster. The disadvantage is that some of the frames will be missing in the final video.
Regarding higher torque motors. Most of these do not have encoder. So two motors would have to be used, one for monitor function and the other to pull the film through.
Last edited by Stan Jelavic; October 05, 2020, 07:09 AM.
Thank you Stan for these clarifications.
I actually thought that the capstan was pulling the damaged film but that the images concerned were scanned automatically.
What made all the interest of the system. So I will have a lot of catching up in post production.
Thank you very much for all your hard work and V10 documentation.
BTW : Please, Could you check my drawing for wiring modifications before I solder the wires.
Thanks in advance.
Hi Kamel. The buzzer (sonalert) wires have to be reversed. The capstan gray and red wires also have to be reversed. The GRY and RED labels are in teh wrong place. I fixed that in the latest boards. No other changes were done to the boards so I did not change the version to V13.
Also the REC led has to be 3V.
Hi everyone, thanks Stan for the extensive manual, over time this has become an incredible document, a mammoth task.
Kamel there is no way the current capstan motor would be able to accurately advance the damaged film frame by frame. In my opinion its better for the scanning process to stop (with audible warning) at point of damaged film and advance that section frame by frame, manually.
This would prevent having to process the film a second time just to recover misaligned frames.
I found there is less problem regarding sideways jitter with capstan located in the second position, as it would only be used to monitor film movement in case of a jam (bad film joining) or film stops moving for any reason, second position is best for me.
The only way to advance damaged film reasonably accurately would be by using a small stepper motor as the capstan, this could introduce more problems, such as accuracy of movement and if the film jams and the motor is too powerful it could also damage the film. Any way these are just my thoughts.
Thanks Bruce. Good points. Using a high torque motor can definitely damage the good film section ahead of the jam. The alternative is a roller pair with a stepper but that is getting pretty complicated.
Thanks Stan and Bruce, I have just fine-tuned the design of the new motor mount for the capstan
(the front trunk fixing screw is annoying).
I put them attached. 2 versions for the old motor and for the new one which is wider
(third position wich will be the most used, I think).
BRAVO Stan on the take up speed / tension. Interesting that if you flip the capstan clockwise with your finger, it will squeak. No power needed. Then you know the polarity is correct.
I gave up on the old corrupt MSP. I'll just buy another if needed. There was an error reported when I flashed this one, maybe it is causing the intermittent behavior I'm seeing. Turbo would not work at first. I went thru the chart to test all the settings. Then after some time, it starts working. The capstan does not work with SPEED on high. Initially it did, not now.
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I'm recommending an led to indicate when REWIND is on (easy?). I'm in the habit of using RUN as on / off and forget to switch everything off. REWIND begins when RUN is switched off and that might not be noticed with the back cover on with the film thru the gate. It looks to be stopped while the gears are still rotating inside.
The down side to a geared motor even with an encoder is it will not likely free wheel. My motor has slight resistance from 12:00 to 1:30. Just enough to stop the rubber pulley. The toothed pulleys keep turning, but jump. So I'll be ordering a new motor.
I forgot to mention. Stan the capstan does not force a stop, is that yet to come?
Last edited by David Brown; October 06, 2020, 03:28 PM.
Hi David, did you use freq_gen_12_hdr_turbo image to program your MSP? In that version capstan should work in both the fast the slow mode. I will check.
The turbo control is not done by the MSP. It is a hw control that changes the stepper step size through the turbo switch. This is usually a switch wiring/contact issue, or bad ribbon or bad solder connection at the ribbon connector. The Code Composer warning is OK. I get it also.
Prepare your voltmeter. Set the dial to 5V DC.
Connect the negative black lead to the ground.
Start up the unit make sure it runs slow speed with turbo on.
With the positive red probe touch pad J16 and read the voltage.
Pad J16 is right next to the ribbon connector that connects the Hawkeye board to the
power supply board. https://photos.app.goo.gl/jFxSHwxfR3N6ZswA8
The voltmeter should read 0V.
If it reads 3V then we have a switch connection issue that needs to be looked into.
If it is 0 V then it could the ribbon connector solder joint.
Thanks again Stan for all your help.
I have a quick question: can we put a led on the "run" switch to indicate the state (yes, I know I love leds!).
I actually have visual issues and it helps me a lot.
Yes it is possible Kamel. Just be careful the LED take additional current on the power supply regulator and that one gets hot. The fan helps but still something to keep in mind.
Tested the AR0230 usb version. It looks pretty good. Very easy to get the details in bright areas. Shadows are a bit dark but still visible.
The lens shading is much better than with the AR1335 and can be noticed a bit with pure white frame (film removed).
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