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Originally posted by Stan Jelavic
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The paint was not so expensive
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Just ordered it. Will see if it helps.Comment
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Hmmm inside the tube is not completely black. This is the 12mm lens taken apart.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LEHZE9jWPdqcnsRA6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/C4MQwyWSYi97c3aZA
It has a scratch also. It was not my doing because I saw that scratch through microscope before I took the lens apart.
The paint should fix this though. Will have to contact IS and discuss this with them. My gut feel is that the people do not complain
about it because they do not use the lens so close to the object.
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interesting to see the result if it fix the lens flareOriginally posted by Stan Jelavic View Post
did little google search about lens flare and there was tips to Use a Lens Hood in front of the lens but i guess you have test that already or there is no space for a lens hood
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Hi, reassembling the lens without introducing micro dust and fibers is going to be difficult outside a clean room.Comment
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Are you saying that my room is not clean Bruce
he he...
Will use compressed air but if that fails can send it to back to IS for them to put it back together after I test the paint.Comment
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Here is the sketch of the lens construction.
Painting inside the tube will be a challenge. The last spacer on the right hand side is pretty tight and will scratch the paint
if I paint before the lenses are installed. This means that painting should be done with the lenses installed.
That will be pretty tricky. Probably will have to use a very fine brush.
Paint the middle surface.
Install lenses.
Paint outer surface.
Install filter and lock ring.
Use compressed air prior to every step.Comment
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Wow, I'm surprised there are more than 2 elements in the lens. Problems I had with flare, before the days of Hawkeye, came from the sprocket holes. I was using a dslr with a fairly expensive lens. Masking the image eliminated all the flare. That might be difficult to do here. Painting the lens will be challenging, but it could be fun.
The film is floating above the light. A mask could be cut from heavy black foil or 3D printed and placed on the light surface.
I found some images were offset before I was using different exposures. Or at least the exposures looked the same. It was obvious when the film labeling was off by one frame on the same numbered files.
This one does have different exposures.
That brings another question. Inclow & DecLo suggest only an under exposure can be made in the 2nd folder. I assume that I should overexpose the primary view by 1 stop to achieve 1 stop over and 1 stop under using 2 low. That would cover the dark shadows and the bright skies. There is no other setting, or am I wrong?
Need to start studying Enblend now. Or was that Enfuse?Comment
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Good work David. I noticed the images go out of sequence by one. Will look into that. Found one small glitch. The image count runs outside the save loop. So during setup with the save button off, the images count still runs. Because of this the count is unknown when the trigger and save buttons are activated. Could be even or odd. I fixed that but still get the odd and even number offset by one sometimes.
Yes, the exposure should be set on a high side for the hi image. That is how the app runs right now.
Tried your masking idea and it works quite well.
Definitely simpler than painting the lens tube. It would probably work for the r8 also because the whole gate moves with the
s8/r8 switch but not sure.
BTW, Enblend is very simple. Download it and copy the bin dir into your work hdr dir.
Also copy the bat file there and edit the paths and image numbers.
enfuse-hdr.bat.txt
Just run the bat file from the dos shell.
Last edited by Stan Jelavic; August 07, 2020, 07:20 PM.Comment
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Had a look at HDR image order issue.
The issue is that when the stepper is first turned on there is no guarantee that the fists frame will have both trigger pulses. Will check if there is a clean fix for that. A single trigger for the first frame will save the odd image only. Subsequently will always save both images. So we end up with an out or order images. For now I use a dos script that copies the even dir into a temp dir with the right image order.
I ran a clip today with the 16mm lens at 2048x1536 resolution, gate masked and HDR. Will post the result shortly.
Here is the video:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t__...ew?usp=sharing
It in on my google drive. Try downloading it first because google drive player adds some annoying compression.
Last edited by Stan Jelavic; August 09, 2020, 09:40 PM.Comment
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Hi Stan, your last HDR video is very good, the scene with the lady walking on the left side footpath this to me is really excellent, the dark area on the right came up with excellent detail, there are no blown out whites, I do not think it could get better.
In some more difficult extreme light/dark scenes, the dark areas appear a little foggy, do not know how else to explain this, it looks flat like too much negative contrast in photoshop, but HDR does make images look flat. To increase the brightness of those very dark areas to the level that you have, so they are visible and detailed, it may be as good as it gets.
Excellent job Stan, thanks and regards _ BruceComment
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Yes looks much betterOriginally posted by Stan Jelavic View Post
i use DaVinci Resolve and the scope RGB parade as final color correction it´s free and very easy to learn the basics
i import as tiff image sequence to DaVinci Resolve and output as tiff image sequence
i think this was one of the tutorials i did watch to learn davinci Resolve https://vimeo.com/68340708 i think the most important in the tutorial is 00:25 to 11:00
DaVinci Resolve have Auto Scene Cut detection here is a clip https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCmcoQcTEZoLast edited by Mattias Norberg; August 10, 2020, 05:16 AM.Comment
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Yes, I agree with Bruce and I can no longer refer to the 'Lady in White', her dress has many patterns and colors!
I've still not read thru the Enfuse instructions yet. I hope there are control options. The best HDR maintains the tonal relationships. Things look flat when we lose the shadows and highlights. When everything is at the same 'exposure' things can look like an extreme overcast day.
I have taken some of the HDR I captured, into Lightroom and Photoshop. I even took some dslr bracketed shots in the woods where there was extreme lighting. These finished images from Photoshop's "merge to hdr" are not really finished. They need additional tweaking to avoid that 'flat' look.
Looks very good Stan!
P.S. Everyone should remember to dust off the sensor before the last time the lens is installed!Comment
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Thanks for the comments Bruce, Mattias and David. Yes I forget that every time until I notice those nasty smudges in the bright areas.
I tried a few things. Photoshop contrast increase does help and removes some of the "fogginess" but AviSynth contrast is not very good. It multiplies the pixel values by a contrast ratio driving the whites into saturation.
Will check daVinci. Used it for a while some time ago. It eats up memory on my laptop and sometimes will cause my cursor to start jumping around. So not really keen or running it again.Comment
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