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Thank you Kamel for helping out.
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Just for anyone who may be interested, Kamel has changed the tooth profile (I know this was done some time ago) blue is the previous version and green the new. Considering the size of these teeth, the change is minor.
I have not updated to the new profile because the older profile is working well on my capstan.
Regards - BruceComment
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This test took longer than it should have. Testing brings out the flaws. I had many things that needed to be tightened down.
I have a spool of 35mm newpaper archive and the classified adds are so small they can't be read with a magnifying glass!
A lot of detail across the frame.
Changing lenses, 16mm to 12mm, was taking a long time and some of the mounting threads became sloppy. I would have redone the 12mm captures if I hadn't just done that 3 times!
These files, with one exception, are at the captured resolution.
Here's the list of file names and descriptions. Too many and too big to upload here.
and the link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...2N?usp=sharing
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Very interesting David. Thank you for your hard work. Comparing your classifieds clips with 12mm and 16mm I can see that 16mm is better and it is nothing to do with the higher digital zoom used with the 12mm. I say this because I can see the 16mm is better even at the same zoom level.
But when I compare the TIFFs I do not see much difference at all. WE are possibly reaching the max rez of the film even at 12mm. So my thinking is that we will not see much difference with the average quality film. But if someone has really good quality clips it may be worth the extra $30.
On my end here I did some tests with the toothed pulley mounting. Used David's and Bruce's process with two set screws. It works quite well.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8Jr6oSsKtgzFMWzP8
The red parts are from Printathing and white from Shapeways. Obviously, I will have to get another set from Shapeways with fine detail plastic and smaller diameter but the combination from 2 different suppliers looks doable.
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Thanks David & Stan, the 16mm does look better, clearer but it looks to me as though the exposures are not the same, there is a flaring effect with the 12mm which makes the letters have that overblown fuzzy edge appearance (I may be wrong). The 16mm black background is darker and that also makes me think the exposures are not the same. All in all a very good result, are there other advantages in using the 16mm, can it be set up so that more of the sensor pixels are used for just the actual S8 mm frame, in other words better than the current say 1336x944 (approx.) pixels with the 12mm lens, or could the resolution be improved upon with the 12mm lens, is it physically/optically possible.
Regards - BruceComment
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Good point Bruce. David can you redo the test with the current setup and classifieds clip and adjust the exposure to match the other.
Possibly use binning with the 16mm. That would not impact the sharpness but could improve the dark scenes.Comment
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Hi all,
Thank you for all your tests to help us progress.
Bruce, Well observed for the pinion tooth.
Stan, Sorry for the inconvenience of 3D printing.
I hope it will work out...
David, Great Tests, very interresting ! I prefer the 16mm lens.Comment
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Stan, The 12mm exposures are dark. I should have recaptured everything, but I had already swapped lenses too many times and I didn't think we needed to test the 12mm for sharpness. The classified JPG's are not originals. I tried to correct the exposures.
I do want to capture with both lenses and compare them when published at 1080. I have a feeling that they might look very close. I'd rather do post on the tiffs before they are loaded in a video editor. That is, until I find out it all looks the same regardless of the process!
The 12mm lens has a very shallow depth of field! It easier to focus than the 16mm at f5.6.
A word of caution for those using printed lens supports and extensions.
Be very careful when threading the lens into the lens support. It is possible to cross thread and throw the lens off axis.
Even a tiny amount will show up on the captures.
I have a handful of M12 mounts. Some are metal, plastic, or 3d printed. Some have threaded mounting holes some don't. The 3d parts don't. Use bolts with nuts. Screws will work with plastic, but will wear with repeated use and the mount can loosen later.
Reprinting lens mounts now. I have new printing software that still needs to be zeroed in.
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Hi David. The original tiffs should be used from the video slips. I agree that you will probably see very little difference if any. Possibly we are hitting the limit of the film.Comment
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Hi everyone,
I hope you are all well. Here is my last update of the complete front panel this time.
I await your feedback to make corrections if necessary. Have Fun ...
Attached FilesComment
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Kamel thank you very much, I will wait until I upgrade the Hawkeye with the new board and switches.
Regards - BruceComment
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Good work Kamel. Been busy with part time work Bruce but will start assembling the boards shortly. Have to go over my stock one more time but should have all the parts needed for board assembly.Comment
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Stan no rush, work is more important.Comment
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Hi David, just a quick question if I may, I'm looking to get a 4k monitor maybe the LG 27UL850-W, wondering which make and model you decided on. I'm not a gamer so interested in accurate colours rather than speed.
Thanks DavidComment
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https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-U28E5...ronics&sr=1-11
Bruce I've this owned the above Samsung for 3 years and it still looks great. My television is LG 4K and it's awesome.
The link above for Amazon, is a used unit and overpriced. It's still available locally at the same store where I bought it for $300 new.
Viewing angle (IPS) was an important feature I wanted. A monitor really only needs good vertical viewing angles.
Price was also important and though this Samsung is an Led PN panel, contrast falloff is almost undetectable. It can also run games at 60hz, but I have never played any! Otherwise, I'd now have a 1080 monitor.
Good luck with your search.Comment
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